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Stock internals with GTX35 Single set-up question

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  • Stock internals with GTX35 Single set-up question

    Hey folks,

    So my car has been out of commission for a while and I've decided to focus on getting it back on the road. The engine thats in the car now was basically stock. Drove it like that for a year or two before 6th cylinder blew up. Close to the end of its life a had a blown head gasket and I feel that may have led to the failure of the engine (caught the blown gasket to late) Replaced it drove it for a while after that and looking back now I feel fuel got into the oil and killed the ring or something. Smelt a fair amount of fuel before the engine died. Thought it was a leaky injector or something and didnt really act fast enough on it.

    With that being said I bought a new engine and have it on a stand and I plan to buy a few goodies to replace on it. It is stock with only 69,000kms on the engine. I was planning on doing just some minor mods. Didn't really want to go to deep into forged internals yet If I don't have to.. Was planning on getting Cams, better fuel system (rail, injectors, pump) and intakes and intake piping and then a Gtx35 with a twin scroll manifold. My question is will I be pushing to much horsepower on stock internals?

    Right now the engine is in great shape from what I can tell. Most of the cylinders have 150psi lowest cylinder had 140psi. I plan on ripping it apart a little bit just to see what kind of shape the heads in etc and get some metal gaskets and studs while its off. But overall the engine seems to be in pretty good shape.

    So the question is, if im going with a bigger single pushing 500-600hp+ on stock internals is it likely that im gunna end up with another chewed motor?

    Thanks guys,
    BrianR32
    1991 Nissan Skyline GTR - Build in progress.

  • #2
    If you know it's solide motor why touch it. I say run it the way it is. U could slap tomei type b on it but yo valve clearance might go off then it's an headache founding proper shims. Stock motors are sometime more reliable then an built one it's been proven many time. I would say use yo good stock motors has it is and slowly built the other one. Every gtr onwers need 2 motors lol. Iv put together an spare motors, iv put close to 15k on it still running my stock motor that put out 500hp. When she goes the built is ready to go in.

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    • #3
      The tune is GOD. Lots of stock RB26s around the world have gone deep into the 700fwhp range on good fuel and a safe tune. Always go with a turbo capable of making 30% more than you plan to go to and you will never go wrong....lag be damned. To many people ask too much from a smallish turbo and burn the motors down due to scorching AITs and a sloppy tune/shlt fuel.



      Jon.
      Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

      1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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      • #4
        It'll be fine. Dsport mag editor did 800whp on his stock engine'd R33. Cheers
        No build thread.
        1991 nissan
        El terror

        "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

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        • #5
          Not how much awhp you can make it's how long it will last at that hp level.

          General rule of thumb is 550hp is the limit for stock conrod bolts, stock conrods, 600hp for cast pistons (100hp per cylinder).

          Anything above 550hp at the engine, forged internals should be used.

          If not the stock I beam conrods or stock conrod bolts can snap and put a hole in the side of the block or ringlands can fail on the stock pistons.
          RESPONSE MONSTER

          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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          • #6
            Run the stock engine and have a built motor ready to go if and when the stock one self destructs.

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