Can it meet my goals?

[Fraser19]

Hey all so I am here to get some info. I plan on doing a medium build to a skyline RB20DET and I figured I should check in with you guys to make sure all my thoughts are at least heading in the right direction.

I will start off by saying I was originally going to get a 2005 BMW 330Ci and supercharge it but I recently got into an 11 000 dollar accident with my truck so the money isn’t as available. So I started looking at all my options for a car with good potential good priced and lots of available parts. The skyline seemed perfect for what I am looking to do.

So I haven’t bought the care yet and before I do I want to make sure everything I want from it is possible after some good mods. What I want is a good track car something that can go fast and get through the corners flawlessly.

I love the look of the R32 skyline and am thinking an RB20det should be able to handle what I am looking for.

I want to hit 350 RWHP, I also want reliability so forged pistons and connecting rods will be installed as well as a new turbo I would also upgrade the head and valve train I have read that the ceramic turbine wheel sucks at higher boost and the turbo its self won’t ever get me to my power goals. I would also install new coilovers and another suspension parts that will help me hit those corners fast and gracefully

I want this car to be street legal and safe for the street and a monster on the track.

So what do you guys think can the R32 skyline meet my expectations I know it won’t be cheap but that doesn’t matter.

[Supraclean]

a car with good potential good priced and lots of available parts. The skyline seemed perfect for what I am looking to do.

Yes a good car with potential. Parts available... not so much. Would you be bulding the car yourself or a shop? My advice is go threw all the build threads and read on the site before you buy the car. Honestly supercharging the BMW will probably take you less downtime and possibly save you lots of headache. 350hp is do able with properly sourced parts/ and a good tune to make the engine last.

Best of luck to you.

[Fraser19]

Yes i would be building it myself.
The thing with the BMW is it now out of my price range skyline 1/2 the price and somewhat the same performance kind of seem alright.

Also from my random searching there seems to be an alright amount of performance parts out there they just are not at the best prices, but what i have always done was overbuild my engines i want 350 rwhp ill build it ready for 700 get good parts in there and tune it good i find things last

What I would most likely do is slap on a good quality intercooler and a larger high-quality ball Bering turbo and play around with it at around 280 HP I’ve read the stock internals start to fall apart quickly at 400HP and while I have that on there I would buy a second RB20DET they are cheap anyways and build it rock solid in my garage

[Skym]

Stock RB20DET internals with stock cams, etc can handle 500whp (565hp) on dyno with 35psi or so on E85 or similar gas -

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=298289

In theory the cast pistons are good for 100hp per cylinder or 600hp total. But some have pushed past that on dyno with RB26. The conrod bolts, bearings, valve guides, short oilpump drive on front of crank, welsh / water plugs, headgasket are the other weak points on a stock engine when used on racetrack with racetrack mods.

Stock RB20 turbo (in good condition) is good for around 330hp at engine (1bar or 14.5psi) or roughly around 266rwhp and can be used on racetrack -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9QGwTC4vNc

Wouldn't push it further than that.

From what I have been told, 400hp at engine is due to RB20DET gearbox. Can run a RB25DET gearbox behind it and bolts into auto chassis with stock crossmember. Manual chassis needs a custom or modified crossmember for rear gearbox mount. Then use the yoke part from RB25DET shaft, modify length of it and bolt onto front of R32 driveshaft.

On Gibson R31 RB20DET Group-A racecars (GTS-R) they had around 485hp at engine or roughly 420rwhp (1.7bar) with forged internals and used a Hollinger dog gearbox with custom bellhousing, custom driveshaft, custom halfshaft's, etc. Engine when driven very hard and lasted around 3000km between rebuilds which was considered to be very reliable for a race engine at that period in time (similar to V8 race engine). I think it still had a stock like wetsump setup.

Gibson GTS-R vs V8 powered Ford -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIasNcIrZcM

This is what the engine bay looks like -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_iHWWiVBXs

Forged internals (conrods, pistons, bearings, etc) can be bought from Spool in Australia -

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/rb20det-rebuild-kit

I would buy a Tomei headgasket as it's more reliable (thicker seal). But can send stock pistons away and get some custom made forged pistons by Ross or CP (said to be a cheaper way to do it).

Supertec sells the 1mm oversized valves, valve springs, etc for RB20DET -

http://www.supertechperformance.com/

Cams can be from Tomei or custom made to your spec (to match ported head, oversized valves, etc) and they sell valvesprings, valve guides, etc (online catalog) -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/efr_index.html

The bonus of RB20DET block is it's quite thick (big gap between watergalleries, cylinders) compared to RB25, RB26 due to the smaller 78mm pistons vs 86mm on RB25, RB26. To strengthen block, crank more you can run a custom CNC made mains caps, plate that sits on top of mains, block. This plate joins mains caps, block together, so it braces bottom of block, crank, etc.

Thermostat from Nismo, oilpump, waterpump from Nismo, custom copper intake gaskets (stronger than factory that are known to blow), aftermarket damper pully, auxillary pullies, etc.

[nelsonmxmarc]

I'm running 354 whp daily and 360 ft lbs tq on my internally stock (but rebuilt) Rb20.. The motor runs very healthy.. Your main contender are oil and water temps. If you can keep them down, you're golden. Also, intake air temps .. The one thing the bottom end does not appreciate is high heat.. Bearings will go in no time.

If you wanna be extra reliable, run water meth and kill some timing. You'll gain a ton of power and still keep the motor very cool.