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  • R32 Top Mount Turbo.


    Whats your opinion on this kit. Worth the money? Any current users of this product or similar?

  • #2
    man..for 900-1000.00 its clearly junk..not trying to burst your bubble..but you'd be further ahead to buy a good used turbo, and a nice top mount turbo mani from someone ... seriously thats like an ebay kit..you dont want that. a buddy of mine ran on 7LBS! on a ebay kit and the turbo f"ucked off after 2 months..seriously save your pennies buy brand name, you wont regret it.anyone that tells you different is an idiot

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    • #3
      yeah for sure! totally agree. im not set on this kit, but i am looking towards doing the top mount conversion. What brands or manufactures would you suggest?

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      • #4
        Lots of guys like 6boost manifolds. Im also in the market for a top mount, something quality under $2k would be nice.
        Regards,
        Ken.

        Bayside Blue '89 HCR32 RB22 "MORE POWA"
        http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/49160-kens-1989-babyzilla.html
        Blue '14 Mazda CX-5 - GF's Grocery Getter
        White '10 Mazda 3 - Daily Driver

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        • #5
          Turbos- Garrett,GReddy,Precision,Holset

          Manifolds- Tomei, GReddy, etc

          look at this ,this guy has some good stuff http://forums.gtrcanada.com/parts-sa...-manifold.html


          If you're looking to do a FMIC, checkout CX Racing on Ebay, seriously it doesnt really matter about piping and an intercooler it will work and do the job , so you can go cheaper. and they work pretty well I have 3 friends running them on 300+ hp applications.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by trickey1991 View Post
            If you're looking to do a FMIC, checkout CX Racing on Ebay, seriously it doesnt really matter about piping and an intercooler it will work and do the job , so you can go cheaper. and they work pretty well I have 3 friends running them on 300+ hp applications.
            You still have to be careful with the Intercooler piping, CX Racing is good (2mm), but I wouldn't buy anything that is less then 2mm. If it's on Ebay and they don't say the thickness of the wall it's probably thinner. If you need to cut piping and make a beed on the end of it, you can easily make yourself a tool for making that little lip with a pair of old visegrip, a washer and an exhaust clamp.

            I wanted to share this in the new custom fab section.(Colt4g63) Was the original poster of this so the credit goes to him.You will need 1 Pair of standard size Vise Grips a 2.5 inch Muffler clamp saddle, a large washer and a small welder.Weld the muffler clamp saddle to the...


            And if you have a welder and you know how to use it, or you know someone who does. I have seen some cheap manifold properly braced earn there money. The big factor here being the weight of the turbo, if your not going for crazy power, it's not to bad, BUT if you do go with anything like a GT35R or bigger, or want to save a little bit of money and go with a heavy Holset turbo. I highly suggest going with a proper built manifold.

            Personally I prefer to build my own, since I don't like how every one out there just make's bigger wastegate tube or doubles them to try to compensate for bad placement. Exhaust don't like having to make 90 degree angle lol. Yes I do understand that they do this to optimize the flow of exhaust gases, but having a little curve to help gases get to the wastegate doesn't hurt flow THAT much.
            14 VW Jetta TDI
            05 Sentra SpecV - winter beater -
            95 240sx (RB25DET powered)
            95 240sx ( powered)
            89 GTR - Money Pit -

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            • #7
              I'm all for chinese knockoffs, but even I would stay away from a chinese turbo.

              If you get a stainless manifold, i have three words for you - brace brace brace. I got one thats exactly like the stainless ones, but built out of steam pipe. Unfortunately I got the last one they had.
              -= ECU UPGRADES =- -= LOCKOUT BARS =- -= AERO =- -= SEATS =- -= ACCESSORIES =-

              -= PM ME FOR INFO =-

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              • #8
                Originally posted by collector240sx View Post
                You still have to be careful with the Intercooler piping, CX Racing is good (2mm), but I wouldn't buy anything that is less then 2mm. If it's on Ebay and they don't say the thickness of the wall it's probably thinner. If you need to cut piping and make a beed on the end of it, you can easily make yourself a tool for making that little lip with a pair of old visegrip, a washer and an exhaust clamp.

                I wanted to share this in the new custom fab section.(Colt4g63) Was the original poster of this so the credit goes to him.You will need 1 Pair of standard size Vise Grips a 2.5 inch Muffler clamp saddle, a large washer and a small welder.Weld the muffler clamp saddle to the...


                And if you have a welder and you know how to use it, or you know someone who does. I have seen some cheap manifold properly braced earn there money. The big factor here being the weight of the turbo, if your not going for crazy power, it's not to bad, BUT if you do go with anything like a GT35R or bigger, or want to save a little bit of money and go with a heavy Holset turbo. I highly suggest going with a proper built manifold.

                Personally I prefer to build my own, since I don't like how every one out there just make's bigger wastegate tube or doubles them to try to compensate for bad placement. Exhaust don't like having to make 90 degree angle lol. Yes I do understand that they do this to optimize the flow of exhaust gases, but having a little curve to help gases get to the wastegate doesn't hurt flow THAT much.
                OK That Vice Grip tool is sick! I used an exhaust flare tool that I bought at Princess auto. Works ok, but wasnt the nicest!
                -= ECU UPGRADES =- -= LOCKOUT BARS =- -= AERO =- -= SEATS =- -= ACCESSORIES =-

                -= PM ME FOR INFO =-

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by collector240sx View Post
                  And if you have a welder and you know how to use it, or you know someone who does. I have seen some cheap manifold properly braced earn there money. The big factor here being the weight of the turbo, if your not going for crazy power, it's not to bad, BUT if you do go with anything like a GT35R or bigger, or want to save a little bit of money and go with a heavy Holset turbo. I highly suggest going with a proper built manifold.
                  So you typically brace the manifold to the block to reduce the stress from the weight of the turbo on manifold welds?
                  Regards,
                  Ken.

                  Bayside Blue '89 HCR32 RB22 "MORE POWA"
                  http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/49160-kens-1989-babyzilla.html
                  Blue '14 Mazda CX-5 - GF's Grocery Getter
                  White '10 Mazda 3 - Daily Driver

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Loose exhaust hangers can also put stress on weldeds. So geting a custom made downpipe with flex bellow also helps prolong manifold life.
                    Traction is optional, so are zipties

                    92 Gtst/Silver bullet

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TheyKilledKenny View Post
                      So you typically brace the manifold to the block to reduce the stress from the weight of the turbo on manifold welds?
                      yeah the stainless ones are prone to cracking....

                      Some of the topmount turbos are effing heavy too!
                      -= ECU UPGRADES =- -= LOCKOUT BARS =- -= AERO =- -= SEATS =- -= ACCESSORIES =-

                      -= PM ME FOR INFO =-

                      Comment

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