Need some "forged" pistons and rods options??

[supersayianjim]

after my planned drive to tx2k12 this year and the planned completion(to get it running) on my 1jz-sc swap.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-4...ct-soarer.html --for those who give a damn.

iam going to rebuild my loyal rb with a forged bottom end. i want this to be cost effective so id like a good set of pistons,rings,and slugs for a grand or under. factor in some maching shoping i don't want this to cost more than buying a rb25motor swap.

looking for any links or any direction on this as egay has a ton of chinese engine rods that aren't finding thier way into my block.

this will be a road course car. so iam keeping an internal wastegate turbo. maybe my existing 30 or even a 35 chra.

[nimblestix]

ebay offeres great combo deals on pistons and rods + arp rod bolts (cp/eagle , je/manley , weisco/eagle , cp/manley....etc etc.) for about $1250....i dont think they are "chinese".

Perhaps im mistaken though? Anyone else please chime in.

Edit: They are quoted shipping to canada at about $60. USA is free, and international is about $120

[Supraclean]

Honestly man I think its going to cost you way more then buying a 25. Machine shops arnt cheap, and you dont want to cheap out.

[supersayianjim]

well the thing is i don't have a crazy power goal for this engine if it made 370whp then i would be happy. it's not making that because iam missing -60psi across all my cylinders. i think some fresh seals stock rods and supertech forged pistons would help me achieve this goal. right?? and some super to none head portwork??

[nimblestix]

@370 whp your fine on stock internals.
Do a refresh with new seals and rings and it'll pull till the day you get rid of it. You should inspect the bearings while your at it and replace if necessary.
I believe forged is for anyone looking to build over 400whp.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[M13]

I respect you for not doing the typical blinded-sheep 25 swap.

leave a 25 in there and just assume it's "fast". like 80% of the 25 swappers.

[Supraclean]

I respect you for not doing the typical blinded-sheep 25 swap.

leave a 25 in there and just assume it's "fast". like 80% of the 25 swappers.

Some people need it easy but if your willing to put in the reasearch/ ups and downs. I know I want to take my 20 farther just need that extra coin.

Got a spare block with my name on it.

[BrianV8]

ebay offeres great combo deals on pistons and rods + arp rod bolts (cp/eagle , je/manley , weisco/eagle , cp/manley....etc etc.) for about $1250....i dont think they are "chinese".

Perhaps im mistaken though? Anyone else please chime in.

Edit: They are quoted shipping to canada at about $60. USA is free, and international is about $120

I got one of these kits for my car manley rods cp pistons, everything is legit, checked out the seller before buying, Pistons came with wrong wrist pins but guys really good to deal with, had the proper set sent directly from cp

[supersayianjim]

I respect you for not doing the typical blinded-sheep 25 swap.

leave a 25 in there and just assume it's "fast". like 80% of the 25 swappers.

thank you. again it's just stupid for me to have x2 2.5 i6 turbo cars. i want my 13 to be 2.0 ,2.5 for my sc,and if i get a 350x shell id do a rb30.

so just forged pistons and stock rods are overkill??

[Skym]

From what I understand, stock I beam conrods are forged. They just need to be crack tested, etc to find 6x good rods, then shotpenn them, fit new stock conrod bolts.

Stock pistons are the weak part (ringlands can crack) and heavy vs forged pistons. Fitting forged pistons changes the amount of inertial load (load that snaps conrods) on conrods, conrod bolts at same amount of revs (less stress on conrods, conrods bolts). Anything over 20psi all the time (under hard use like racetrack, etc), most change to forged pistons. On dyno you can push to over 30psi with stock pistons on E85 or similar gas (cooler cylinder temps, can run more ignition timing), but how long will it last??? Also compression is dropped into high 7's (to make it reliable at 20psi+) via forged pistons, thicker headgasket.

If for 400whp RB20DET, just need to upgrade pistons, fit new stock conrods bolts (use stock rev limit's), fit upgraded valve springs, JUN or similar oilpump drive on crank, N1 oilpump with Reimax N1 oilpump gears (or a aftermarket oilpump), ACL bearings, etc.

This RB20DET racecar has 413whp with similar mods, 22psi, RB25DET gearbox, stock cams (mods are mentioned in comments) -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lk1PZcHaUs

413whp on dyno -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSkFzn4rZ1U

But a engine with that sort of hp, boost level, thrashing requires routine rebuilds every 3000 race km. Probably can extend that amount of race km before rebuild with a dry sump setup, as there tends to be less wear on bearings, etc with a dry sump setup.

Can buy a H beam conrod, forged piston kit -

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conrod-piston-packages/spool-rb20-conrods-and-cp-forged-pistons

[supersayianjim]

okay skym you said stock conrod bolts?? why not upgrade to arp bolts?? am i missing something??

[motoking332]

maybe ill see you down at tx2k12 if i get to go this year

[supersayianjim]

sadly iam not going(yes i suck at life). rb isn't done and no coin.