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  • r33 build suggestions?

    Well i have just finished making the car reliable as my daily driver and now im looking to get a little more power. Dont have high power goals, just looking for a bit more and would be happy around the 300 mark. Haven't been to the dyno yet but figure its probably just over 200?

    1994 gts-25t

    Current modifications:

    - 3" exhaust no cat
    - Coilovers
    - Apexi pod filter
    - Splitfire coilpacks
    - Manual Boost controller 10psi
    - Sard rising rate FPR
    - Walbro 255lph fuel pump
    - Emusa FMIC
    - Cometic triple layer metal exhaust manifold gasket

    The next parts im looking to get are:

    - 550cc injectors
    - top mount manifold
    - bigger turbo (suggestions?)
    - front facing plenum
    - stronger head studs and gasket (needed or not?)
    - stand alone ecu
    - electric boost controller
    - new clutch (suggestions?)

    So thats where im at with this so far. Unsure which turbo im going to run right now, want to go bigger and run a bit more boost. and also not sure if i will need to upgrade the head studs and gasket or if they will be sufficient for a bit more power. Also my clutch is stock and starting to feel worn out so it will need replaced, want something a bit stiffer that will work fine for my application. just looking for some suggestions for now about those parts and any parts that will need upgraded that i have overlooked.
    Last edited by evolution23; 05-17-2012, 01:37 AM.
    1989 GTR - summer toy
    2011 Ram - winter beater

  • #2
    Around 300whp can be done with stock turbo, breathing, etc mods. Max is 322whp at same boost level (10-11psi) if push ECU tune. That's a very responsive setup.

    Rough list -

    550cc injectors
    255-300lph fuelpump
    Link G4 ECU (map sensor) with optional IAT sensor, MAC? brand boost control solenoid (Link ECU has onboard boost control maps).
    Exedy sports? tuff? single plate clutch
    3inch dump / front pipe, 3" cat elimination pipe into 3.2inch or 3.5inch catback
    Podfilter
    FMIC
    Engine oilcooler (stock coolant to oil oilcooler works, but air to oil oilcooler is better)

    Can add bolt on GT3076R turbo with 0.84? A/R (look on SAU) exhaust housing, antisurge compressor cover, etc (custom intake pipe, custom dumppipe, custom oilfeed, return hoses and custom coolant feed, return hoses), metal headgasket, ARP headstuds, etc if want a reliable 400whp.

    Although I like the HKS 25/40 turbo on RB25DET with Nismo exhaust, Apexi FMIC, etc (look at the response) for street use -

    Last edited by Skym; 05-21-2012, 04:46 AM.
    RESPONSE MONSTER

    The most epic signature ever "epic".

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    • #3
      Power fc with current mods tuned would probably get you 320 at the crank.

      To give you an idea. My car ran 210rwhp on racing greedy Dyno. Guy there forget his name said stock gtrs run about the same.

      I only had down pipe decat catback lol

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      • #4
        Originally posted by cooke24 View Post
        Power fc with current mods tuned would probably get you 320 at the crank.

        To give you an idea. My car ran 210rwhp on racing greedy Dyno. Guy there forget his name said stock gtrs run about the same.

        I only had down pipe decat catback lol
        Was looking to run a power fc. Think I might do that with a new clutch to start then get the new turbo and bigger injectors ewtc.. But basically my goal is easily achievable by pushing my car with a new ecu and tune?
        1989 GTR - summer toy
        2011 Ram - winter beater

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        • #5
          Rb25 power fc are reeeeeaaaaaly hard to find around here. Best bet look on skylines austrailia, boostcruising classifieds, or source one from Japan. Give adam@feast a shout if you want it sourced from Japan, might be cheaper.

          With intake, full exhaust, electronic boost controller, yellowjacket coilpacks, good plugs, and a healthy turbo you can boost probably 12psi or 13psi. 280 at crank

          Tune it properly with the power fc an I think... I repeat I think 320-340ish

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          • #6
            But I don't know much

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            • #7
              Originally posted by cooke24 View Post
              Rb25 power fc are reeeeeaaaaaly hard to find around here. Best bet look on skylines austrailia, boostcruising classifieds, or source one from Japan. Give adam@feast a shout if you want it sourced from Japan, might be cheaper.

              With intake, full exhaust, electronic boost controller, yellowjacket coilpacks, good plugs, and a healthy turbo you can boost probably 12psi or 13psi. 280 at crank

              Tune it properly with the power fc an I think... I repeat I think 320-340ish
              power fc for sale on here from vernon for $1500. exhaust leaks all got fixed up and new gasket put in about a month ago, full 3" exhaust no cat, got the split fires with brand new ngk bkr7e's gapped at 1.1 and running 10psi (manual boost controller) and shop said turbo was still in great shape when they did the manifold studs. also have a decent size FMIC.

              Just trying to decide the best route for this. i want bigger injectors but nothing too big which is why iv decided 550cc, and want to safely run a bit more boost. Not sure of the benefits of the front facing plenum but i want to clean up the engine bay while im at it which is why i want the front facing plenum and want to go top mount. and if i go power fc i believe there is an electronic boost controller you can plug into it? and new clutch is a must as the stock feels like its at its end.

              also just noticed dah_hunter has a build thread of pretty much what im planning, even the same turbo lol hx35 has proven itself in the cummins engine but im still deciding. lets see what he puts down for numbers, then ill have an idea for my build-to-come.
              Last edited by evolution23; 05-17-2012, 11:38 PM.
              1989 GTR - summer toy
              2011 Ram - winter beater

              Comment


              • #8
                The boost controller is an extra for power fc. Most people in austrailia never use them.$1500 is too much, $1200 at most $1000 more reasonable with hand controller. Go with a hks evc. Check out skylines austrailia they have some wicked r33s built up. As they have had them already for many years.

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                • #9
                  What I suggested above is from a stock RB25DET with boost up mods that produced around 322rwhp with stock turbo.

                  R33 with FMIC, full 3" exhaust from turbo produces around 233rwhp or roughly 297hp at engine.

                  3" exhaust -



                  FMIC -



                  kw x 1.341 = hp. With ECU tune around +38hp (close to what cooke24 mentioned above with 320-340hp, depending on how aggressive ECU tune is).

                  With clutch disc it's best to use spring type (like factory) to put less stress on trans, engine.

                  For $1500 you could get a Link G4 ECU or ViPEC ECU (similar to Link G4 ECU, but slightly different), IAT sensor, Mac / Link boost control solenoid. Link G4, ViPEC ECU's are the best of the cheap ECU's and have motorsport features like antilag, launch control, etc.

                  Also with Link G4 ECU, ViPEC ECU you have the option to run a Ross crank trigger setup which is said to be more accurate than stock CAS -



                  Should gap sparkplugs to 0.8mm to stop engine missing at higher rpm that damages coilpacks.
                  Last edited by Skym; 05-18-2012, 10:45 AM.
                  RESPONSE MONSTER

                  The most epic signature ever "epic".

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Skym View Post
                    For $1500 you could get a Link G4 ECU or ViPEC ECU (similar to Link G4 ECU, but slightly different), IAT sensor, Mac / Link boost control solenoid. Link G4, ViPEC ECU's are the best of the cheap ECU's and have motorsport features like antilag, launch control, etc.

                    Should gap sparkplugs to 0.8mm to stop engine missing at higher rpm that damages coilpacks.
                    plugs were gapped at .8 but the amount of misfires was getting to be too much which is why i gapped them at 1.1 and now its running/boosting great. as for a tune, it would be mild as this is my DD. so if i run a set up like. vipec ecu, 550cc injectors, bigger turbo (still undecided on which one), put in a stage 1 clutch, top mount manifold and front facing plenum. thats enough to exceed my goals by roughly 100hp?
                    1989 GTR - summer toy
                    2011 Ram - winter beater

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      On my car it was the opposite with sparkplug gap (gapped to 0.8mm to stop missing at higher rpm).

                      Turbo, configuration you choose depends on purpose of car. Being a street car you concentrate on response (stock turbo, HKS 2540 turbo, hybrid stock turbo which is similar to HKS 2540 turbo, etc on stock exhaust manifold), wide powerband and stock engine is best for this purpose.

                      A longer runner top mount exhaust manifold adjust's the powerband so it's more mid to high at loss of bottomend (racetrack). Intake manifold is changed to front facing intake plenum with shorter runners to suit the mid to high powerband and head modified to suit the mid to high powerband with cams, valve springs, valve guides, porting, oversized valves, etc. As you can see it all has to work together as a package.

                      Can achieve 400whp with stock engine (with metal headgasket, ARP headstuds, metal intake gaskets to replace paper type stock gaskets as they do blow), bolt on (fits on stock exhaust manifold) GT3076R turbo with T3 internally gated 5 bolt exhaust housing, etc from ATP turbo -



                      Then fit a 5 bolt V band flanged adapter plate (they have a custom / better ATP version of that adaptor flange that they sell, just can't find it) -



                      They sell V band flanged piping (weld onto exhaust), V band clamp for that flange.

                      I think this flange is better with flow of exhaust gas (small pipe merges with big pipe) -



                      Then add custom intake pipe, custom intake piping, podfilter to match, etc.

                      Have seen this GT3076R turbo on stock RB25DET in R33 run a 12.4sec? 1/4 mile with drag radials, suspension, etc. Probably could run a high 11sec 1/4 with rear end alignment dialed in correctly, etc.
                      Last edited by Skym; 05-18-2012, 01:27 PM.
                      RESPONSE MONSTER

                      The most epic signature ever "epic".

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        well.. there goes my clutch. seems that will be the first part to replace whenever i get around to buying a new one. what would be a good clutch for my build? dont need a double plated or anything like that.
                        1989 GTR - summer toy
                        2011 Ram - winter beater

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                        • #13
                          This clutch -



                          I couldn't remember if was 5puk or full face clutch disc. It was said that it was a "Extreme 5puk" and knew that it was pink with colour and Exedy brand. I think it held up to 400whp with RB25DET, GT3076R turbo.

                          It's mentioned here about what applications clutch can be used for -



                          But like they said in above link, need to know the torque of engine, rpm, application to help in selecting clutch that suits engine (I gather you need to contact Excedy and ask).
                          RESPONSE MONSTER

                          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                          • #14
                            i was looking at the exedy stage 1 clutch. it should be more than enough for what i want but still be light enough to be used as a daily driver?
                            1989 GTR - summer toy
                            2011 Ram - winter beater

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                            • #15
                              From what others have said, feels the same as stock clutch. I gather has better material on disc part + being 5puk vs full face, higher clamping force with cover so it doesn't slip. If doesn't feel light enough, can always fit Nismo slave cylinder, etc.

                              I think it was Nismo twin plates, etc (racing clutches) that require the Nismo slave cylinder (bigger diameter on inside), Nismo braided hose, etc for lighter pedal feel.

                              Nismo slave cylinder -

                              RESPONSE MONSTER

                              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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