more power PLease RB25det

[trunks_phil]

Ok Boys summers around the corner and i need more power from my Rb25det.
specs are
Fully Built bottom Rb25det.
Garrett Gt35r
550 CC injectors
walbaro 255.
Freddy Intake.
made 387hp and 300 lb at 17-18 on a dynomite at Autodreams.
Just bought a Zex turbo nitrous kit from a member and planing to shoot a small shot in to spool the turbo up faster and built more lower end power.
Should i through some poncams in to and would that make a big difference or not.

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Cams will make a small difference. The combination of Nos and cams would be better. I had a 100 shot on my first GTS, it was a Zex kit so it only sprayed at WOT. Spraying in the lower rpm ranges will have little to no effect, trust me I've tried.
With a built bottom end, wouldn't it be easier to just run higher boost?


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[trunks_phil]

I think the tuner already tried to bump the boost up and it didnt do much.

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

You may be maxed out for your build, if the tuner went as far as he could. I'm not overly familiar with RB25's, mostly 20's and 26's. There is some members on here running built 25's and I think the max they reach is around the 350hp mark. You may be limited by the engine you are using.


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[trunks_phil]

yea kinda though so.. well hopefully the cams and nos will help with with something haha. just want the torque numbers up a bit.

[Woodly]

You may be maxed out for your build, if the tuner went as far as he could. I'm not overly familiar with RB25's, mostly 20's and 26's. There is some members on here running built 25's and I think the max they reach is around the 350hp mark. You may be limited by the engine you are using.
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Max at 350?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMZjUhD4kAg

and that is a fairly safe tune/turbo

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Max at 350?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMZjUhD4kAg

and that is a fairly safe tune/turbo

Like I said, I don't play around with 25's. I stand corrected, lol.


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[RABBIT]

What's your EMG?

[trunks_phil]

Emg? Sorry for the Noob question what Does that stand for? If u talking bout engine management system I got a links 3G full standalone . Map sensor.

[TheHire]

350 isn't even close to max for the RB25det...


Looking for an easy upgrade path for your R33 RB25DET Nissan Skyline? Look no further than NZEFI.

Stage 1 225rwkW (approx. 300rwhp)
Full 3″ exhaust system from dump pipe back
Apexi Power Intake air filter (bolts directly to AFM without an adaptor)
MGP front mounted intercooler kit
Walbro 255L/hr fuel pump
NGK Spark Plugs – custom gapped
Upgrade S1 AFM to S2 type (required on S1 cars only)
HKS EVC-S electronic boost controller
Retune factory R33 ECU to suit modifications
Note:

S1 R33 RB25DET engines use a green sticker AFM good for 200kW (approx. 270hp) at the wheels.

S2 R33 RB25DET engines use a pink sticker AFM good for 225kW (approx. 300hp) at the wheels.

Stage 1 represents a substantial upgrade over stock and makes the most power that is possible reliably with the factory turbocharger.

Stage 1+*225rwkW (approx. 300rwhp)
Full 3″ exhaust system from dump pipe back
K&N 3″ pod air filter with AFM delete pipe
MGP front mounted intercooler
Walbro 255L/hr fuel pump
NGK Spark Plugs – custom gapped
Link G4 plug-in ECU
IAT sensor for Link G4
XS Loom for Link G4
Electronic boost control solenoid for Link G4
In-cabin boost control knob or hi/low boost switch for Link G4
Retune Link G4 plug-in ECU to suit modifications
Stage 1+ does not make any more power than Stage 1 as the power is limited by the factory turbocharger which uses a fragile ceramic turbine. However, Stage 1+ will suit customers who are planning on chasing much larger power figures in the future. The fitment of a Link G4 during the early stages of modification makes future retunes easier and less expensive.

Stage 2 – 300rwkW (approx. 400rwhp)
Stage 2 uses all the same parts as Stage 1 but adds the following:

Genuine Nissan Z32 300ZX AFM,
550cc/min side feed fuel injectors
Custom built direct bolt on turbocharger
Retune factory R33 ECU to suit modifications
Stage 2 hits the magic 300kW mark while still keeping a near stock appearance in the engine bay. *Turbocharger lag in increased slightly over Stage 1, but with all the new found midrange and top end power you wont miss not having full boost at 2500rpm.

Stage 2+*300rwkW (approx. 400rwhp)
Stage 2+ uses all the same parts as Stage 1+ but adds the following:

550cc/min side feed fuel injectors
Custom built direct bolt on turbocharger
Retune Link G4 plug-in ECU to suit modifications
Stage 2+ hits the magic 300kW mark while still keeping a near stock appearance in the engine bay. *Turbocharger lag in increased slightly over Stage 1, but with all the new found midrange and top end power you wont miss not having full boost at 2500rpm.

Stage 3+ 375rwkW (approx. 500rwhp)
While the stock pistons and conrods can handle Stage 3, it is important to have a tight engine in good condition before upgrading to this level. If your engine isn’t in top condition to start with then we advise that it is rebuilt before attempting Stage 3. If there is a possibility of moving to stage 4 later then upgraded engine components should be used in the rebuild. Please contact us to discuss this in more detail.
Stage 3+ builds on Stage 2+ but gets even more serious with the following components:

Genuine Greedy or RIPS front facing plenum
80mm throttle body
Custom made intercooler piping – fabricated in house at*NZEFI
Bosch 1000cc injectors
Fuel pump wiring kit
Tial BOV
Custom made exhaust manifold – fabricated in house at NZEFI
Garrett GT3582 or T04Z twin scroll turbocharger
Tial 44mm wastegate (or dual 38mm wastegates for T04Z)
Upgraded valve springs
Retune Link G4 plug-in ECU to suit modifications
At this level, you’ll be glad you invested in a Link G4 as this has many features that are lacking on the stock ECU. *We consider Stage 3 to be the upper limit when using 98 Octane pump fuel and stock engine internal (with the exception of upgraded valve springs).

Stage 4+ 500rwkW (670rwhp)*or more
Don’t even consider trying to make this kind of power on a stock engine. As part of your engine rebuild you may want to consider upgrading to an RB30 engine block.

[trunks_phil]

So in order for me to get 500whp I would need valve springs and 1000cc injectors?

[TheHire]

So in order for me to get 500whp I would need valve springs and 1000cc injectors?

I personally don't know...Yet.

I'm still a noob to Skylines.

In researching what I'd like to do to my R33, i found that blurb from a tuning company in New Zealand. But I certainly would like to be pushing 500whp in the next few years. I'm no stranger to dumping 20 grand into an engine.

Here's the link... You can contact them, they might be helpful, I dunno.

http://www.nzefi.com/packages/power-upgrade/nissan-skyline-r33-rb25det/

[Dragon Humper]

Depends on what size turbine you have. If its the 1.06 you could easily make 500whp. But not with those injectors. Get some 800s and you are there. Bottom end torque has a lot with the tune too, you gotta get really aggressive with the off boost tune, you should never be below 30 deg of ignition timing at WOT till at least 7psi of boost. I would play with the tune some more before you go too crazy with the N02. Power is torque + rpm, you make torque with boost and ignition lead. If the tuner is to scared to crank up the timing your only avenue is to run 25psi of blow.

The absolute best fuel you can get is a must, if donkeypiss 91 is all you can get, don't expect miracles..especially from N02.



Jon.

[Skym]

The lag (lack of response) at bottomend is partly caused by the bigger intercooler. That can be improved by fitting a RB30 bottomend.

There's data from a intercooler manufacturer to back that up -

http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm#Turbo Lag

Turbo size, A/R of exhaust housing plays part as well in lag, response. Trust / Greedy with their turbo's fit smaller A/R exhaust housing and smaller exhaust wheel to help with response, reduce lag and run a bigger compressor wheel, bigger compressor housing for more peak hp.

More hp can be produced by switching to a tube N fin intercooler that flows better than the cheaper bar N plate intercoolers (around 27hp more with RB26 + ECU tune to suit) -

http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intec...MR.htm#Chinese Intercoolers

Cams with ECU tune to suit can make engine inhale more air, run richer (ECU tune) thus produce more exhaust gas at lower rpm that helps to spool turbo slightly quicker. Also cams help produce more hp at same boost level (engine produces more hp).

With cams, Tomei Procams with Tomei solid lifter, valvespring, retainer, etc upgrades produce more hp than with Poncams (dyno proven) throughout powerband on N1 spec RB26 (I would think, similar result on RB25DET) -

http://sthitec.blogspot.co.nz/2013/02/stock-n1-engine-with-tomei-procam.html

Cam timing is another way to get turbo to spool earlier (take advantage of the VVT that RB25DET has), fit adjustable exhaust camgear and is where you can get some hp gains (depends on how the camgear is set, VVT is setup). Can get turbo to reach full boost 500rpm or more (with ECU tune to suit) earlier.

You can get more hp by switching to E85 fuel (with ECU tune) just for the dyno run (just like running on Methonal, it uses alot more gas than with pump gas hence why many only run E85 on racetrack). Also it can help with turbo spool as well (can run more ignition timing).

It's not uncommon for RB25DET engine to produce around 536rwhp with E85 fuel, stock bottomend, stock cams, etc. You'll need a Link ECU, GM ethonal content sensor, E85 compatible fuel system (including fuel tank) to run E85.

What turbo's, intercoolers, etc are rated to in hp, is on pump gas. With E85 you can get alot more hp, around 50hp+ at same boost level (can run more ignition timing).

Fuel that you can run is Martini fuel, which is higher octane (can run more ignition timing = more hp) and can mix with pump gas to make it higher octane, get better fuel economy -

http://www.martiniracing.com.au/index.php/our-products/race-fuel

They use that E85 fuel on RB26 engines (134hp gain at wheels and only 2psi more boost) -

http://www.facebook.com/MartiniRE85/posts/100100070169209

There is PDF floating around the internet somewhere showing the differences with RB26 engine on Martini gas, pump gas, etc.

[trunks_phil]

Yea I'm running the 1.06 a/r and my car is tuned for 91 octane . Getting my car retuned this summer only place that has higher octane is husky 94 and I've heard petro carried 94 now , should I switch over?