Diagnose please...

[bnsportsr33]

aaaand the noise is back in full force after literally pretty much going away completely... WHat the FAKSDFJKASDFJASDKLFJASDJKLFASDF


I'm buying a new motor i'm pretty sure... ugh

[bnsportsr33]

I don't get it lol. It was completely gone, couldn't hear it at all unless you put stethoscope on exhaust manifold only. Now it's back and louder than ever.

wtf

[bnsportsr33]

See it WAS GONE! :/

[Skym]

Foreign object in exhaust manifold and making it's way back where the valves are located???

Also check internal wastegate actuator, as when wastegate isn't pulled closed properly on back of turbo it can create a rattling noise at idle.

[bnsportsr33]

That's kinda what I was thinking skym, but the fact that it came back super loud again has me worried :/

[bnsportsr33]

Let me ask this again just to confirm , but if it was something more serious like IE: rod bearing, main bearing, wrist pin, cracked piston, cracked ringland, bent rod, broken rod, or something like that the noise would be there full time correct?

[bnsportsr33]

Ordered a new motor today, **** it lol.

How tough to pull the Rb25 never done it? Pretty straight forward? Any tricks I should know?

Should I pull it with trans still attached or disconnected?

[bnsportsr33]

**** lol, So I ordered a motor today and decided to take one last look between the manifold. So I pulled off the exhaust manifold and the gasket was busted in half in 2 places and I found 4 snapped manifold bolts, sheered in half........Could that have been the sound? I just wonder why it almost went away and then came back though?

Also, does anyone know if that manifold is the same as any north American car, I'm guessing not and Ill have to order one in the USA at the minimum which sucks cuz it'll take like 6-14 days to get to me...

[Dragon Humper]

So the manni is broken/cracked too? If it is just sheared bolts (in the head I am assuming) then carefully extract them and get a new bolt set. That is definately what was making the noise. Blown manifold gaskets can sound really nasty and can be mistaken for a lot of things. That was at the rear of the motor right? Always a problem spot because of the excessive heat.


Jon.

[Skym]

Turbo to exhaust manifold (common, usually the locking tabs aren't there and the nuts undo themselves)?

Or exhaust manifold to head gasket (common)?

[bnsportsr33]

Exhaust manifold to head is where I found the gasket cracked in 2 spots, and I found 4 broken sheered off mani studs in the head.. how the hell am I going to get these out... This is going to a be a bitch isn't it... ugh

[bnsportsr33]

now here's my dliemma.. New motor gets here tomorrow... trying to get 4 broken/sheered manifold studs out sounds like an absolute bitch and im wondering if you guys honestly think that is what the sound was, because if i change out these studs and spend the time to do it all tedious and it's the same noise when I fire it back up i'm gonna be choked lol.

Or do I just pull the motor and put the other one in? Obviously I wouldn't mind leaving this motor in the car and fixing the studs but I dont' want to go that route unless I'm sure that was the noise and I am not.

[Skym]

Requires an easy out tool, drilling into stud. That's if the stud thread in the head is ok.

Knowing part of the history of the engine (low compression, replaced bottomend bearings without checking balance of crank, clearances, etc, rebuilding lifters, exhaust studs snapping in the head, etc) I would pull the engine in the car and use as spares for the good engine or rebuild it over time.

If have an R33, most upgrade to a RB26 engine with custom rwd sump setup to suit (can run rwd sump with custom pickup or customised 4wd sump with the 4wd short block). I think the RB26 bolts in and plugs in under dash, etc. Also the bonus of having a strong gearbox (from what I understand, same internals as a GTR gearbox, just in rwd configuration).

[Cuami]

There's a tool you can buy at any canadian tire. It goes into your drill.. one end creates a thread in your stripped/snapped bolt/stud and the other side extracts it. Really handy IMO. Can't remember the name for it exactly though.. If I hadn't thrown out the box for it, I'd check for you. Costs around 20-30 IIRC. Makes the job really easy .

But man... Paying to replace an entire motor for a clicking sound like that is way more money than actually fixing the problem. From the limited info I get from listening to the sounds in your video, it does sound like a malfunctioning lifter and/or you need to adjust your valve lash. Seeing as how the noise started to go away/lessen after you rebuilt them, one or more lifters are likely the culprit.

And I've noticed that people like to say "rebuilding lifters" which refers to replacing the faulty parts inside and restoring functionality, when they really mean "cleaning lifters" which is pretty literal so I won't explain. If you just cleaned them out and the noise returns, then something has malfunctioned within the lifter. Just something to consider...

Stock Lifters cost around 20 for 1 or 200 for all 24.
Solid Lifters cost around 600 for all 24 (alternative to stock hydraulic lifters).
RB25 costs around 1.5-3 grand depending on condition...

Buying another motor just seems like a waste of money to me, personally...

My 2 cents... adjust your valve lash and if that doesn't rid you of your ticking, then start replacing your lifters. WAY cheaper to do. If you already have the new motor though... then I agree with SkyM, slap in the new one and rebuild the old one.

[Dragon Humper]

If you have access to a MIG welder and the bolts are sheered off flush with the head it is much easier to weld a nut to the end of the bolt. The weld wont stick to the aluminum and the heat will dislodge the threads from thermal expasion (the alum. will grow more than the bolt and let go of it). Just center a nut over the bolt and roset weld it on, basically filling the hole of tbe nut. It will come right out with no effort and no risk to buggering up the head if a drill bit goes askew.



Jon.