The 5 litre eater

[mattk]

Thanks Jerry, the little peice in the middle where the ports meet up was just me going down to much and not getting around to blending it in smooth due to time. Its defiantly takes time and concentration, but just take your time and get the proper tools to do it is key.

[mattk]

So got the final stage of the port and polish done starting with Cylinder 1.

Cylinder 2

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 4

Cylinder 5

Cylinder 6


The engine block indeed was in need of a good old cleaning and prepping for MLS Headgasket.

And while I was at that i decided to clean the pistons up as well.

I decided to use a Tomei Headgasket instead of the Cometic one.

With the Head all back together, Back on the block with some ARP head studs.


Tried out some Wrinkle paint and some blue with flakes.



I went ahead and ripped out the AC. Cleared up a lot of room in there.


All the components from the AC removal.

Thats all at the moment, Everything is coming together and nice and smooth. Getting closer to tuning time and gettin her on the road. Cant Wait

[mattk]

Update

Its been a long time for an update, so here we go. Been a very busy summer this year. So i left off with the head on. it was time to test fit turbo setup and gather odds and ends to complete the build this year that i was expecting to get done earlier.


Turbo on, as well as 550cc injectors, timing belt, splitfire coilpacks


Upper plenum back on, finish up intercooler install, and wastegate and turbo line completion yet to come!


Custom 3" downpipe with ams oem 02 sensor, innovate wideband sensor, and heatwrapped to finish it up.


Godspeed intercooler mounted and piping routed. I ended up lucking out cause i ended up using the piping with the kit to complete most of it, needed to cut and make a lip on most of piping though.


All piping routed to throttle body with synapse BOV on IC piping, Power Steering res relocated up front to make room for the ic piping leaving turbo.


Two 1/8" npt aluminum bungs i machined for boost controller


A look from under neath the turbo. Turbo lines are routed and 38mm tial wastgate installed and hooked up to boost controller. And the screamer pipe routed.


A look from abover the turbo with blanket and turbo lines routed.

[mattk]

What a difference in size! lol Walbro in and the stocker beside.


And there it is all complete. It has ran for only a few minutes with a very sexy purr going on. I am currently having trouble with nistune. When it ran i had to end up turning the fuel pressure down to 5 psi. So my injectors are squirting to much fuel making me run rich. Came to a point were i had to pull plugs and clean cause there was to much fuel on them. And on that note the AMS Z32 maf is brand new but im getting 1.885 volts when i should be getting around 0.5 volts at just key on. I have triple checked if not more that the maf was wired in correctly. Not the issue atm because i should be able to idle with maf unplugged. Im currently trying to adjust k constant but am not having luck so far. Doing further tests to see why this is. I waill keep updated to see what is going on.

[mattk]

Well i wired in the stock afm, changed afm in nistune to suit oem one. The results were alot better, i was able to idle consistently with afr at 13:1 on warm up and then back down to 10ish;1. So still rich but its getting better. On that note i went ahead and pulled out the timing light since i was able to acheive a stable idle at 650 rpm. The timing was way out, just past last tick on harmonic balancer, so it was close to 35ish degrees. I adjusted cas to retard timing back down to 15 degrees and i was able to rev and drop back down to an idle. I am still fine tuning the k value to acheive 14.7:1. I was also reading on the nistune tuning pdf that when you switch to bigger injectors the latency should not have to be adjusted if the new injectors are made by the same manufacturer. For instance it says jecs which is a common part made on our cars also makes nismo, apexi, tomei, and hks injectors so the latency should not need much adjusting if at all. So, my injectors are deatschwerks so im thinking i may have to play with the latency to fine tune. Anyways i might just go down for tune now seeing as my car is running fine, just a little rich at the moment. Between now and then im going to try and tweak the k constant and latency for injectors to get closer to stoichiometry. I will keep updated to see if i can make an improvement.

[mattk]

Update

So i got the car running good enough i thought to go down to a shop to see what could be causing this, and then get a tune in. So i went off for Calgary for my appointment with Autodream yesterday and droped off the car for a fresh start today. He put in a z32 maf and then went about performing diagnostics to find why its still rich. He is still not sure what is causing the problem, but one thing he did find was the engine is seeing load at idle. He said a typical skyline would see about 14 on the tp load scale but im seeing 23 at idle. possible vac leak! He went ahead and checked the timing belt and said it was fine, which i knew because i double checked that. Then to top it off, i go back to the shop to see if any progress was made to hear that he took it for a drive up and down the alley and heard a clunk. he gets out and notices the crankshaft bolt has snapped up to the threads in the crank. So im pissed now, he said he never touched the balancer at all to check timing. So now they are trying to get bolt out and cant. **** me, what a waste of a 9 hour drive here. He told me he will try to get it out, put another in and try to tune tomorrow. Not to promising for me because of that bolt and the tp load scale but i quess we will see tomorow morning. Another thing i was told was that deatchswerks injectors are not that good because they have the tendency to puddle when spraying fuel(Dripping out instead of misting out) Which makes it hard to atomise the fuel with air.

[evilgtr]

I call bullsh!t on the injector claim, myself and many other guys run these injectors with no problems at all. I base my opinions on parts I have personally used not hear say.

[mattk]

I call bullsh!t on the injector claim, myself and many other guys run these injectors with no problems at all. I base my opinions on parts I have personally used not hear say.

Ive been told good things about these injectors so i didnt think it would be true. He told me that bosch injectors would be the way to go.
Update for the day
Today there was no luck getting the bolt for the harmonic balancer off Winn said at autodream. He was kind enough to charge no labor, so i only had to buy the maf. So the plans are to extract the broken bolt out of crank if even possible when i get back home. And try looking for vac leaks, iacv valve or any thing that could be causing me to have a higher tp load factor then normal. Just cant figure it out. We tried a different ECM with nistune, didnt fix problem/ got a good working MAF now. The car runs but is still rich, and the leading cause of this is becuase of the higher tp load scale factor that im getting, so im told. Has anyone else had any type of similiar problems that would be able to shed some light on a factor that could also be causing any of this?

[evilgtr]

Do you have much of the bolt sticking out past the balancer ? I would suggest :
-Remove the fan and rad
-if the head on the bolt is completly or almost completly missing then get a crank pulley puller and pull the harmonic balancer off,if you damage it dont worry theres lots around and they are cheap,I even have one here.
-This will give you another 1/2" of so of threads to wirk with, find a mig welder or someone good with a stick and weld a 1" nut onto the end of the broken bolt.

This should give you enough leverage to remove it provided you have threads showing

I know autodream does great work but phone Jurie at monkeynutz if you are still in Vancouver, they deal mostly with RB's so might be able to help
Jurie Human
1 778 855 4711

[mattk]

Oh i just realized what i typed last message, the harmonic balancer is already off. They had problems extracting the bolt because it broke off at the threads in the crank. The bolt that is used is about 3.5" long if not more and the threads are about 1.5" long and the threads to the crank are sunken in a bit to start with. I only got a quick look at it, and i cant do much seeing as i am here in Calgary. So im off back for GP today and when i get back im gonna try everything to try and get the bolt out. Its gonna really suck if the crank has to be removed and sent out to machine shop.