projec: S-RB

[supersayianjim]

well today i finally put my silvia into hibernation until it gets warm...




and a moment of silence for those 240's that are still daily driven in the winter..

[supersayianjim]

well it's time to update. iam way behind schedule. and iam approx 5-6 thousand away from finishing this to my liking(including a turbo upgrade,paint and what not). stashed it away for winter but still buying parts and getting ready for summer.

ordered a turbo dumppipe from e-gay. But it suck because it hits the steering rack because it's for a lhd car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKYLINE-RB20-RB25-R32-R33-R34-TURBO-DUMP-PIPE-/400122308537?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2925e7b9

so i had to do some/hacking fabbing. luckily one of the nissan tecks knows how to weld..










and after some hammering and cursing finally got it to clear..








i did notice quicker spool up, and a louder turbo note..

[supersayianjim]

found a s14 ad local pick and pull with grey interior. so i grabbed up the seatbelts and the seats..(anyone with a 13 knows the seats suck camel balls)

but the 14 seats makes me want to drive again..
I stripped the seat cloth threw it in a washing machine and viola. clean and smeling fresh..(had to track down some hog rings and a special gun.)

Also picked up an uncracked dashboard(thanks again p+p that is for a hud).
so did this as a combo deal as it made sense..

removal of the dash was suprisingly easier than bad sex.. all the screws you see are the ones you need to remove(remember the vents by the windshield)







oldies must go




swapping the vin plate






so smooth




then after that it was on to the seatbelt/seat combo.
also eliminating that pesky auto seatbelt system was also a "piece of vag"





iam a carpet muncher














kinda short compared to the stock one. but the bottom bolt should suffice.

[supersayianjim]

now i got the seats naked(no sex this time) and got to cleaning the foam and threw the skins in the washer.




















and as you can see from the side by side comparison, the 14 seats loves youre ass more.




i switched the bolts and washers from the 13 and 14 to screw and fit. the swap itself wasn't hard just the fabbing of the seatbelt holes with the dremel was time consuming.

i recommend this upgrade for any 13 owner..

up next

-motor pull(for the proper r32 crossmember)i have a cefiro on it now
-turbo/fuel upgrade
-rear diff
-5 lug swap
-z32 upgrade..

[supersayianjim]

well it's time to decide on the next clutch iam going to use.. when i got the car the clutch that came with it had a lot of meat left on it. so i let it stay.

now i have a slight rear main seal leak and i plan on pulling the motor next month(if i can find a r32 crossmember at a fair price). but heres the clutch that came with the car and that is in it now.. not slipping now or anything. just time for CHANGE..i was looking at these 3 alternatives.. a gtr guy in canada said that this one had a heavy pp and it over time unbalanced the crankshaft(never heard that before though)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and this one is a good clutch. but is hard on the drivetrain.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and i was looking at this one because it's namebrand. but i did want a ceramic disc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

any experence?? takers??

[supersayianjim]

well i went with a f1 clutch kit(yeah i know).

so it was time to upgrade some stuff.

-the steering rack had had it so it had to be swapped with a "hicas" unit i got for $40.00 off craigslist(it looks brand new).

-got a full urethane kit
-a new oem oil pan'
-a n1 oil pump
-5 lug swap and a z32(front only) brake kit
-j-30 diff swap into s13 pumpkin
-z32 brake master cylinder
-hid 10,000 install
-wahlboro fuel pump install
-oil cooler kit
-rattle can the front end($20.00 a CAN)
-GTR GRILLE(for the oil cooler)
-fabb up a better intercooler mount..
-ss brake lines

[supersayianjim]

so it's time to start the phase 2 of my project. these mods aren't intended on making it go faster(sans the lsd and bigger tires) but more efficently. new rack and bushlings etc. coilovers are going to come in the future as i don't have a grand to drop at a moments notice(would be nice though).


started off with the fuel pump.. nothing was wrong with my rb unit,it worked fine. but i do plan to upgrade later. so i got a wahl unit. i had one before on my mk3 supra. and it didn't work out so great(drank a lot of voltage). so iam hoping to have better luck this time..





no it's not pee



and the finished product. wasn't hard. just had to splice 2 wires and push it down on the holder.



also picked up some z32 caps(front) and had some red paint left over so figured i'd give it a coat. a lot of it got nicked/chipped during install. so iam going to do again after there finally mounted and driving..




also cracked open my j30 diff.. iam going to use the s13 pumpkin as i don't want to **** around with the driveshaft and mounting points. i don't have the proper year axels(i have a post 95(i think) so iam going to use the 13 axels in the mean time..







i also got a hid kit from these guys. https://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=cart


shipping was slow as ****. but it was $50.00 total.. so the so the japs have some weird headlight bulbs. so i got a h1 and planned to fabb it to fit..






got them in the low beam housing. but could not get them to point up as high as i needed them to. might have to remove the glare shield. but either way way better than halogen..

[supersayianjim]

then it was off to the garage and jackstands(for a few weeks)



needed these goodies bad.

all booted and end-linked up



got some rear blanks (se 5 lug) for $20.00 a piece.



started on the bmc(really dirty). it's a automatic and from what i hear the auto booster has greater force than the manual one?? iam running z32 front and ss lines on all 4 and keeping the stock rears with a z32 bmc(well see what happens..)




this slowed me down for 2 days. this 5 SIDED HEX stopping progress. even the guys at autozone(where i got it from) didn't have one. i finally went to nissan and one of the techs had one.



got some assiatance on how the brake pads went in. as this is my first time doing brakes..



also had to borrow a socket for my front hub swap(apparently the mm isn't the same as on the rear)






don't forget this thing. very important




had to cut the dust shield so the rotors would fit.



and much better

[supersayianjim]

yes the benefits of not fitting youre wheels properly(offset is a bitch).







and even with spacers(i would later find out). that the wheels would then clear the brakes. but would not turn(wtf).

[supersayianjim]

so now it's time to pull the mill out..



when using the picker you have to position the chain for an almost even weight transfer.. the tranny was tilted too far back to clear the front of the car. so i said **** it and just seperated them right there.



secured the tranny because i didn't want it running around the garage..



now it's time to remove the clutch and flywheel. i got this chain wrench from autozone a year ago. a excellent purchase as this makes it so much easier(doing it alone) to torque and loosen up the bolts from the rear of the engine.







the clutch looked chewed to ****. but it still held(barely)



this looks much better



and the rear main seal leak culprit. i think this block metal did a great job keeping out the leaking secrections..

[supersayianjim]

now it's on to my nemesis from the last time i had this engine out. i was determined to beat this because i got a new oil pump(n1) and i wanted to change the front main seal before it started to leak.

the clearance behind the gear is so tight(more than 6 asian virgins) so the pullers in the store wouldn't fit. i could only get the head of a screwdriver behind it.







i had a plan and would come back to this. going for something easier now.
i decided to dremel out the old pilot bushling. as the remover tool(i loaned one from the autostore) didn't fit.





and i brought a new idler pully



the new design keeps the spring in.

[supersayianjim]

the new goodies continue with a "hicas" steering rack. and some new boots and control arms..





well i got this steering bushling replacement.




didn't know where it went. and can't imagine installing it with the engine in the car..





but this thing kicked my ass.. you have to turn the bolts at an exact angle(2 13 and 2 12mm) and it stripps so easily and it took forever to turn(air tools just made it worse). after an hr of loosening the bolts i just said **** it and just tightend them up.

so now onto the toe arms.. when things go right these presses are a gem to have..







******* easy.

now the front sway bar..





i also got a sway bar spacer kit from sr20 store so my new oil pan won't be scrapped up this time..

now iam test mounting my oil cooler...



wanted it around the gtr grille so the airflow can be functional..



also fabbed up some new intercooler mounting brackets(need a new ic).

[supersayianjim]

so iam tired of the 3 color thing. but i don't know **** about paint and iam broke as ****.. what to do.. $20.00 a can rattle paint was the answer. but first had to sand(i dry sanded) the finish off. used onf of my storage units as my paint booth.





coat hangars for the assist











the hood didn't come out too good



and after clear coat

[supersayianjim]

so continuing with the urethane bushling install.. on to the subframe. these are inserts. to aid with the rubber units.. there are full urethane units. but there not in this kit.



before. and after penetration..




time to get rid of that fail 4 lug.

loosen these bolts before removing(makes life easier)







now time to swap the rear toe bushling. the kit came with all the bushlings for the whole rear kunckle. but looking at the project car install. and the fact that i didn't have a air chizzel or a torch(or patience) i did the easy toe bushling..



push it bitch!!



comparo between old and new..



i do need new front ball joints

[supersayianjim]

clutch time..
changing out the throwout bearing.. i liked the stock one(should had kept it) it looked more quality than the f1 unit. but new is new(right)??



pressing out the old one..



and the finished product.



i made a good call when getting a ka clutch fork(the same as a rb) same goes for the piviot ball..