boost leak?

[r33skyline24]

so i was driving to work and all of a sudden it felt like my car just started jerking when giving it gas. its a 95gtst. i took it to my friends shop here in florida and we looked at it and he said from the sound its probably a boost leak. we looked at all the main lines we could see without taking anything apart. we didnt find anything, we tried spraying down the lines to see a leak but nothing. so i came home to try and see online where and on my way it stopped. so i went back out and it did it again as soon as i started the car. i have no clue what else it could be and where maybe a lot of peolpe get boost leaks. if anyone has any suggestions let me know. thanks

[FastPAt]

A boost leak woulden't studder the car. It would make a really loud sucking noise, not like a large aftermarket tubing sucking but really, really loud (thats if its a big leak) if it's a small leak you will probably not notice a noise but more of just a loss in power when you accelerate, trust me you will notice, it feels like the car lost all it's horsepower, but it won't shake and stuff.
It might be the MAF, check those clean them out.

If that doesn't work you can either get new ones or if you still think it's a boost leak then go over all seals and connections with propane it's alot more accurate then spraying an entire can of like brake cleen in your engine.

[got_boost!]

Aww.... sounds so HORRIBLY familiar. There are acutally a few things they could be, but luckily enough, they're all simple to check yourself, cheap to buy parts for, and if you have a little engine knowledge, fairly easy to do yourself. Check out the sticky in this section called "Fixing your Hesitation" and start running down the list. Also, have you checked for any ECU codes, sounds like it could be the CAS or MAF.

[Skym]

Check for an airleak, just behind AFM, as that can make the engine stutter. Basically AFM gets 2 air sources instead of one.

Airleaks after turbo make a wailing sound. Airleak before turbo makes the engine feel sluggish and sometimes hard for engine to hold idle. Then there's the stuttering problem with a airleak that's just behind AFM. Sometimes the rubber intake pipe behind AFM cracks between the reinforcing ribs or under the intake hoseclamp. Or rubber intake piping is not sitting square and tight against the lip that's on the AFM body.

Then if they are ok and it doesn't go away, check CAS, fuelpump, etc.

[r33skyline24]

thanks guys. im thinking it might be fuel pump too. sorry but what and where is the AFM and CAS. i know the MAF and will check that. ive been below half tank of gas even when i fill cause i dont drive all week just mostly 3 days in a row longer distance and dont feel like spending the money to fill the tank all the way up, ive heard its bad to let it get down to 'E' is that true. could that mess up my fuel pump. and we did a brake cleaner test while the engine was running and nothing happened. i dont have a propane torch at home, i thought i did but might go out and get one.

[r33skyline24]

nevermind, looked it up and saw afm and maf are the same. i can just spray some electric cleaner through it?

oh and im gonna check the ecu codes.

[RB25DET]

so i was driving to work and all of a sudden it felt like my car just started jerking when giving it gas. its a 95gtst. i took it to my friends shop here in florida and we looked at it and he said from the sound its probably a boost leak. we looked at all the main lines we could see without taking anything apart. we didnt find anything, we tried spraying down the lines to see a leak but nothing. so i came home to try and see online where and on my way it stopped. so i went back out and it did it again as soon as i started the car. i have no clue what else it could be and where maybe a lot of peolpe get boost leaks. if anyone has any suggestions let me know. thanks

I have a 95 GTS-T also. I have a very similar problem. I just installed a front mount intercooler and now I get this problem. Before I installed it I was getting 1 bar constant without hesitation throughout the whole rev band. I have a Greddy TVVC Mini and trying to find the right point. If I keep constant gas at low speed like 3-5lbs of boost, the engine start to spudder up. When over 80km/hr I can give it full gass to 1 bar and blows off fine and takes off smooth at higher speed. I have tried various combanations with the Variable Controller to see if It goes away. Will a setaline torch work the same as a propane torch??? Can I use that gas instead to see if the RPM's jump? I opened my computer today and I am confused as to what bolts to un-due in order to pull the computer completely out. I will also try to reset the computer. Also, I am wondering if the sensor coming from the dump pipe, being melted from the heat, would cause that? Before I installed the intercooler it was melted a little but had no effect. Please help. I will send updated pictures with the front bumper shaved down and the intercooler fitted. What a project.

[deliberate32]

Sounds like it could be the maf, give it a good cleaning, and take er apart and resolder the connections...Could also try and change the Fuel filter if that hasn't been done. Those are some really good places to start. If it doesn't fix the problem, it should at least help it run better.

[RB25DET]

Sounds like it could be the maf, give it a good cleaning, and take er apart and resolder the connections...Could also try and change the Fuel filter if that hasn't been done. Those are some really good places to start. If it doesn't fix the problem, it should at least help it run better.

I just went to the local advanced auto here in S. Amityville NY and picked up some Brakleen and just cleaned the shiat out of that MAF. I did what was recommended and now I am confused about re-soldering. Do I undo the screws that holds the plug receptor out and see if the wires are attached?> I bought a soldering gun and a lil solder.

[RB25DET]

I just went to the local advanced auto here in S. Amityville NY and picked up some Brakleen and just cleaned the shiat out of that MAF. I did what was recommended and now I am confused about re-soldering. Do I undo the screws that holds the plug receptor out and see if the wires are attached?> I bought a soldering gun and a lil solder.

OK now I actually did what that other guy did and actually ripped the solder right off the plug and now I see where I have to clean off and re-solder. My next question is if I cracked the box of the MAF on the top slightly is that ok?

[RB25DET]

OK now I actually did what that other guy did and actually ripped the solder right off the plug and now I see where I have to clean off and re-solder. My next question is if I cracked the box of the MAF on the top slightly is that ok?

Latest and Greatest: I cleaned MAF, and broke the solder connection and re-soldered (not the neatest job but well done. I re-attached my Trust intake back on and lost a nut for the bracket and to hold the rest of the air cleaner on but it's ok because it had no affect. What a difference in all ranges. No hesitation on take off and I set the TVVC to 1 bar with no hesitation all the way up. I won't hold the pressure at 1 bar because of in-sufficient fuel and cut-out or detination. So now the rev-up in each gear is smooth if I let off the gaS between each gear. If I am in high speed I have to constantly let off and re hit the gas for it to be super smooth. It got a lot better on take off but still at about 60-90km/h with the boost held @ .4 I feel loss of power after the turbo or something because than it cuts out.. Does that make sense? Once it cuts out and I let off the gas and re-hit it, it goes fine and pops off loud. If I hold the gas steady at .1-.2 bar the car doesn't do anything but when I hit that .4 area, it starts to act up. Anything .6 or over is a pleasure but won't hold 1 bar but .8-.9 fine. I guess I will have to go after the codes. I will try changing my fuel filter tommorow and keep ya'll updated.

Regards, Brandon