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  • turbo help

    I have an rb20 4 doorskyine, I'm on my 3rd turbo first 2 were 20 and the one that I just blew up was a 25 turbo. The exhaust side is that goes, there is nothing left. I want to do a decent turbo that will take 13-17 psi of boost, but internally wastegated. Anyone have any thing they suggest. Car has full exhaust, 2 way lsd, manual boost controler. I will be putting gtr injectors and getting it epromed. So please help.

    Austin.
    1990 gtr .... in need of axle and some tlc
    1990 gtst 4 door, slammed, 2 toned, and fun.

  • #2
    double check that you have no boost leaks as they are turbo killers.
    find a hks gt2535, you can get a bolt on one. you can find used ones from time to time.

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    • #3
      What kills them is when you run them at 15-16 psi all day
      Jesse
      1990 HCR32
      2006 Chev Silverado

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jessem View Post
        What kills them is when you run them at 15-16 psi all day
        On stock ecu and tune yes.

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        • #5
          i ran my rb25 turbo with 15-16 psi all day without problem when i still had my rb20 in my car. I agree with boost leak!!

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          • #6
            I have one rb25 turbo that came off a swap. They guy said it was leaking oil cuz his bov want releasing. I guess that will do for now
            1990 gtr .... in need of axle and some tlc
            1990 gtst 4 door, slammed, 2 toned, and fun.

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            • #7
              Airleak before turbo can damage edge of compressor wheel and make compressor wheel go off balance, take out bearings, oilseal in CHRA, etc.

              Exhaust wheel shaft snapping is a common stock turbo failure when running stock fuel system, stock ECU tune.

              Max 14.7psi boost for 330hp at engine with correct fuel, ECU mods when running stock turbo. One turboshop in Australia says no more than 14psi with ceramic exhaust wheel, as they say it shatters the ceramic exhaust wheel blades.

              High exhaust temps supposedly breaks down glue holding on ceramic exhaust wheel, makes exhaust wheel go off balance and shatter against exhaust housing, snap shaft and end up in middle of exhaust.
              RESPONSE MONSTER

              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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              • #8
                the gt2525 is Almost bolt on, the water lines need smalled diameter banjo bolts, and oil feed diameter is also different, other than that it's all good, everything lines up and it's a kick ass turbo
                Marc-André
                _________
                2.2L RB20 GTS-T
                ECU modification enabled - PM me for details

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jessem View Post
                  What kills them is when you run them at 15-16 psi all day
                  rb20 one is capable of doing that

                  Originally posted by Skym View Post
                  Airleak before turbo can damage edge of compressor wheel and make compressor wheel go off balance, take out bearings, oilseal in CHRA, etc.

                  im not going to lie, that is the stupidest thing i read all day. I expect more from you.
                  an airleak before the compressor is called the intake.
                  ps. cat overheat sensor does not communicate with the ecu at all.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for picking up and correcting, post modified to remove misinformation.

                    I think I usually say airleak in intake pipe before turbo. Must have been tired when I typed that.

                    From what I understand dust that enters engine bay can enter airleaks in intake piping and dust damages the corner of compressor wheel blades on turbo when car is thrashed (they call it erosion). Any difference in metal on compressor blade makes turbo go off balance. I gather that's why intake pipe before turbo is meant to be kept clean and intake hose clamps tight.

                    Mentioned here about erosion on compressor blade -

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                    In the past I have found dust inside intake piping before turbo after I found a airleak, due to intake hoseclamp coming undone and crack in rubber intake piping and I suspect was part of the cause of stock turbo failure. Oil temperature was the other and suspected main cause of the bearing failure inside CHRA on stock turbo. 2x area's that need to be sorted if boost is raised above stock boost level.

                    Sometimes I read exhaust temp sensor as cat exhaust temp sensor and is connected to pin no 29 on ECU, but noticed there was a warm up pin on 115, for exhaust temp sensor so they must be refering to o2 sensor -



                    It could be the different terms everyone uses. Like we say boot on car in southern hemisphere, you guys say trunk in Nothern hemisphere. It's like learning another language.
                    RESPONSE MONSTER

                    The most epic signature ever "epic".

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