hey, so a little while ago i started my car and the hicas light came on went off for a second then back on and stays on but no noticeable probelms with my car.. i checked the steering fluid level but it was fine. The car drives good but if i drive it for and extended period of time, and turn it off then turn it back on again shortly after and the light comes on for good and i lose power steering? This problem sucks because my car stalls a lot to which is another off topic question on how i should go about fixing, ive cleaned my MAF and adjusted the TPS but still stalls.. stalls mostly after heavy driving then letting off the throttle. So any help with either issue would be greatly appreciated, and just so you know i have a 1993 R33 GTS-T 4dr.. thanks lol
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HICAS light on and dont know why?
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if i were you, buy a hicas lockout bar and rip all that hicas junk out and throw it away. Problem fixed, weight reduction, and far better handling IMO
As far as the stalling problem, i know another guy and i have an issue if your running a really big turbo what happens is you make a tonne of boost, then when you let off the boost all goes out the BOV but the MAF still sees high air flow and floods the motor if you go from boosting to idle quickly
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brian i wish i would have known that earlier... crap that could have saved me some hasle! Anyways to maybe help you out try this.... check all your hoses and make sure everything is tightened up. I was looking at mine today and one of my lines wasn't even hooked up. But like brian said just tear it out, it would be very beneficial as far as handling goes. You will be able to throw your car sidewayz and have some fun : )Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!
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I could probably track you down a hicas lockout bar if you want. Probably 200 bucks worse case scenario depending on the brand name of the bar. If i'm right about your stalling and its the same problem i have you can't do anything about it unless you try to make the MAF fit in after the BOV right in front of the throttle body, or do a MAP sensor conversion which mean new ecu and the works. I'd stick to tapping the gas so it doesn't stall lol. Far cheaperOriginally posted by simpsonsrule12hey thanks for the info.. where would i go about getting a hicas lockout bar from? and how much would i cost roughly lol also, to solve that stalling problem would it work if i relocated the maf sensor? can that be done? and if not what do you suggest i try? thanks alot
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Just got a Tomei Lock out kit from someone on the forum for a great price. It leaves the hicas actuator on the rear of the car - placing shims between the toe arms and actuator, locking it in place. It also comes with a small box that electronically fools the hicas into thinking it's still active, thus deleting the hicas light from the dash. Then you go through a series of hicas diagnostic settings that tailors it to the shims. Basically eliminates the hicas without removing it. However, you can still remove EVERYTHING, including doing the PS pump mod and removing the lines. Basically just leave the actuator in place, cap it off and run it with the shims. Good to go, and cheap alternative to a hicas bar.. Though, it isnt the cleanest mod, i must say, it does the job!Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
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contact feast
he'll get you a good lock out bar. at a good price 2.Originally posted by simpsonsrule12hey thanks for the info.. where would i go about getting a hicas lockout bar from? and how much would i cost roughly lol also, to solve that stalling problem would it work if i relocated the maf sensor? can that be done? and if not what do you suggest i try? thanks alotMiss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!
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Hicas bar is better because you get rid of the cylinder on the diff, all the lines etc etc. Throw away a lot of useless stuff and simplify the setup. The tomie kit i don't like because all your doing is preventing the cylinder from moving the wheels. Everything remains in the car. Not very efficient in my books, and i've heard of people having issues with them
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Yes you will need an alignment no question. As far as that dash light yes it does go on but what you do is there is a green wire that comes out of the hicas ecu in the trunk. You snip that, that wire is what illuminates the light. Snip that no more light, no more problemsOriginally posted by simpsonsrule12 View Postwill i need an alignment after i do the HICAS bar? and I've herd that when you use them the HICAS light on the dash goes on permanently is that true?
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