Just bought a r33 gts25t

[604-skyline]

Hey guys, just getting into the hobby of tuning, what I intend to do is throw a couple grand into it and get some more performance.
What I have in mind :
- New ECU (what would be a good one for a 95 r33 gts25t)
- New exhaust(any suggestions/recommendations)
- New turbo(is it needed? I heard the rb20det needs an upgrade, is this the same with the rb25det?)
and anything else you guys may suggest

Once all is said and done, I'm gonna get it dyno'd and have a new speedometer because it'll be going much faster than 180km/h

My name is Nick from Vancouver, n I'll be getting some pictures up soon, cheers

[RABBIT]

hmm well it all depends what you want to do with your car ( ie . what kind of power, if your into racing what kind of racing do you want to do etc.)
1)as far as the ECU goes if u want to get into some "light" tunning ( i say that lightly) think about using a ROM tune system like Nistune , if you want to go into to more in depth and "serious" tunning go with a full Haltech system.
2) depends on your set up
3)depends on the power you want to make and where in the power band you want it to show. but generally a lot of people stick with a 25 turbo you can get some decent numbers out of it.

[cschepp]

ok first you need to think of what goals your looking for when tuning your car... what hp you want to meet, then you can determine what parts you need. Until you know what your aiming for i wouldn't even bother to start buying stuff yet

[BrianV8]

IMO rom tuning is good until 600whp then i'd consider swapping over to something better. There is a gtr making 800 wheel and has the record for most hp made with a rom tune. It goes a lot farther than people think.

And yes until you have power goals in mind tuning should be the last on the list. Figure out what you want to do then figure out what you have to do to make it all work.

[604-skyline]

I really don't have much of a goal in mind, it could be 300bhp or 600 for all I care. What limits me is a budget of around 3 grand. This would more or less be a daily driver with the occasional track time (I don't expect to go any faster than 12's, if I do that'd be awesome).

[BrianV8]

need a minimum of 350 whp to break 12's

[cschepp]

Do a fmic, exhaust, upgrade your turbo, injectors, fuel pump, find a cheapish set of suspension, and get a re-tune and that should be it imo.

Oh you might also need. Z32 maf but not sure how much power you"ll make

[RABBIT]

Do a fmic, exhaust, upgrade your turbo, injectors, fuel pump, find a cheapish set of suspension, and get a re-tune and that should be it imo.

Oh you might also need. Z32 maf but not sure how much power you"ll make

might as well go q45 TB while your at it.

[Skym]

Making the engine breath better increases hp on R33.

Below is R33 budget buildup videoclips and shows the rwkw gains.

To convert UK (what's used in Australia) kw to UK hp -

kw figure x 1.341 = hp figure

Part 1 Full 3 inch exhaust from turbo -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoGctn5o2Kg

Part 2 Front Mount Intercooler -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6FJUmChzgQ

Nearly 300hp at engine (297.7hp) without touching ECU with around 3K Australian $$$ spent. Retuning ECU = up to 38rwhp gain on top of 297.7hp or 335.7hp at engine.

Part 3 would be piggyback Haltech ECU for R33 (I read you that can use MAP or MAF with Haltech ECU). Also add a bigger fuelpump, adjustable FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator).

Check to see if you have a Series 1 or 2 R33 engine, as the ECU's are different. Series 1 uses same type of ignition system as R32 (big black coloured box looking or known as ignition module). On Series 2 R33 they moved ignitors inside ignition module to each coilpack on engine, so the ignition module is smaller. They did this on Series 2, so can turn each coilpack off via ECU + Consult device (Nissan's hand held diagnostic computer) to check for faulty coilpacks. On Series 1 R33 ECU, R32 you had to pull engine apart and unplug each coilpack to check for faulty coilpacks.

[king_cobra]

before you even think of modding, you better get someone to go through the entire car and make sure that all required mechanical repairs are done.

then perform full maintenance on it (ie fluids, timing belt, etc)

then you can mod it

should you decide to short cut and skip these steps, then well, may god help you...

[Skym]

I agree, service with all fluids changed, sparkplugs (NGK PFR7A heatrange for future mods, especially when A/F ratio is leaned out with ECU retune, as PFR6A is stock and will melt the tips), cambelt, tensioner, idler bearings, etc.

[Paradis]

I think ppl should learn to drive their car and enjoy driving it before busting out the microbudgeted 300+ hp mod wish lists. Make sure everything works and stays working for the first 3 months.

Exhaust is about the only thing i would recommend as its an relatively inexpensive, low risk, yet has a substantial acoustic result.

[604-skyline]

You guys need to quit jumping to conclusions, yes I plan to get a feel for the car before I start doing any kind of modifications. Of course I'm gonna make the modifications in order to insure it. I just wanna get an idea of what I could do to it and under what price from some other people in the hobby.