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  • Engine getting power in surges while accelerating after first start

    Bare with while I attempt to explain this...

    This isn't something that happens all the time, but sometimes when I start my car for the first time during the day (happens during both cold and warm weather), I'll be accelerating and power will come in surges, rather than smooth.

    Since the car is still warming up, I keep it below about 2,700 rpm and don't go into boost. The engine will sort of accelerate, sort of jerk a bit, then accelerate, then jerk again. It will do this for maybe 2 or 3 minutes. It's not a violent surging or jerking, but rather a smooth "power, no power, power, no power" feeling. It doesn't stop accelerating, but the engine feels briefly down on power, then fine, then down on power, then fine, etc.

    What I found VERY strange, is that the engine finds boost VERY easily. Like, when it's not experiencing this problem, the engine will only go into boost if I make it, and will always have quite a bit of vacuum on both the stock gauge and my boost gauge, unless I get on the pedal. When it's doing this surging power on/off thing, I can hear the turbo spooling away and sucking through the filter quite a bit, and letting off the gas gives me the full on PSSSSSh of the stock blow off valve, the same as if I'm spinning along at 12psi. even with like, 5% throttle application... If I dont have a VERY gentle touch on the pedal, it goes into boost very, very easily. It only does this when it's doing the power surging thing, and it only does the power surging every so often. Say once out of every... 6 cold starts?

    After a few minutes of this, once it starts registering on the stock temp gauge, the surging goes away, and it goes back to staying in vacuum unless I really put my foot down.

    What the hell could possibly cause so much boost to be made with such little throttle? What could possibly cause this smooth power/nopower/power/no power feeling? Like I said, it's gentle, though you can easily feel it, even without focusing on it.

    I checked for vacuum leaks the other day and found the hose that goes from the hardline from the charcoal canister to the intake manifold (i think) was completely split, so i replaced it and the idle is much smoother now. That was all I was able to find. I still have the stock pipe between the turbo and maf/airfilter, could that be split somewhere, causing this problem?




    So yeah, I think I explained that the best I possibly could :X

    edit: The engine is also down on power in general. If that helps at all, lol.

    another edit: The engine makes boost really easily, which despite the fact that its surging in and out, makes it feel like it has more power. Even at just light throttle. Placebo effect, or is my engine just stupid?

  • #2
    When cold engine can be running richer than normal and if the sensors below are playing up, can cause problems.

    TPS controls transient fuel enrichment. Basically when you stomp on accelerator pedal, ECU looks at TPS sensor and adds extra fuel to stop engine going suddenly lean that makes engine hesitate. When TPS is faulty, can make engine jerk / hesitate. TPS (electronic version) is similar to a accelerator pump on carb engine that does the same job.

    MAF could be similar if MAF makes ECU select the wrong load cell on fuel, ignition maps. It could be due to bad solders in square part of MAF, dirty hotwire (Use CRC MAF cleaner).

    o2 sensor is faulty and 02 sensor voltage is not fluctuating quick enough between rich, lean triggers on ECU. ECU looks at this sensor when coolant is around 30 degrees+.
    RESPONSE MONSTER

    The most epic signature ever "epic".

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    • #3
      A big bump, since I'm kind of excited to find out what else I have to spend money on, lol

      also, if your answers to my questions are plausible, we can be best friends! We can hold hands at meets if u like

      Edit: hmm, I replaced my 02 sensor about 2,000kms ago, and cleaned the MAF out. I think I'll take a look at the solders in the MAF. TPS sensor looks original so I imagine it's probably out of spec, especially since the car was a drift pig before making its way to Canada. I'm still scratching my head at what could cause the car to make boost so easily when I'm experiencing these symptoms, though.

      If the coolant temp sensor is bad, does the car still "warm up" on the temp gauge, or does it stay cold all the time? Mine warms up, usually takes about seven minutes to get to the middle o the temp gauge. I think ill replace the CTS as well, just because I doubt it's ever been done.

      Can a bad TPS make the car feel slow? It's interesting that this only happens occasionally, like a sensor could intermittintly be functioning okay, but then losing its mind every now and then? I'm still thinking I should replace it though, just because its old.

      I'm going to do a compression test the next time I get a chance to hopefully elimite that as the problem of my lack of power. The engine runs fine, it just has no power, lol.

      Comment


      • #4
        TPS fails and voltages are lower when it does. It's replacement only type of sensor when voltages are low. I've been through 2x TPS on my car. How you drive the car will determine how long TPS last's. You can only adjust TPS if out of spec when new. If TPS is out of spec when older, triggers error code on ECU, TPS has failed and needs to be replaced.

        If engine runs rich, 9.60 minutes is about right for coolant to get up to temperature (80 degrees) when car sits on the spot. If moving, 1-2km should be enough. But I always warm engine up on the spot before driving to reduce engine wear, as when oil is not up to temp, can do the most damage to bearings, etc when you rev engine. Nismo, tuners, etc do the same with their racecars.

        Coolant sensor does fail, but would trigger a error code on ECU if it has failed. Same with TPS. So check ECU for error codes.
        RESPONSE MONSTER

        The most epic signature ever "epic".

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        • #5
          interesting read....
          i have this issue but only when the engine is at operating temps whereas it will surge like its superrich, then clear up shortly after.

          another issue i have right now is where when and only when i go WOT, it hits LEAN ,i let off the accelerator pedal and dump it back in at WOT then it goes back RICH and the car moves like it should?

          Now i have a newer MAF which i have opened up and resoldered/resealed, newer fuel pump, new fuel lines & filter, soforth.

          Ive been told by several friends now thaqt it could possilby be simply doing this modification where i unplug this box from the trunk, snip the white wire and ground it - leaving the plug to the box unplugged permanently? i would like more info on what this is, and what it does exactly?
          .......GTRCANADA.COM
          Canada's premier Skyline enthusiast club

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 89Baysideblue View Post
            interesting read....
            i have this issue but only when the engine is at operating temps whereas it will surge like its superrich, then clear up shortly after.

            another issue i have right now is where when and only when i go WOT, it hits LEAN ,i let off the accelerator pedal and dump it back in at WOT then it goes back RICH and the car moves like it should?

            Now i have a newer MAF which i have opened up and resoldered/resealed, newer fuel pump, new fuel lines & filter, soforth.

            Ive been told by several friends now thaqt it could possilby be simply doing this modification where i unplug this box from the trunk, snip the white wire and ground it - leaving the plug to the box unplugged permanently? i would like more info on what this is, and what it does exactly?
            You mean like... Urgh... hmm. the fuel pump rewire thing? I thinks it supplies a constant voltage to the pump. I have no idea what doing that would do, other than maybe make the pump work better, at the expensive of a shorter life maybe?

            If that's not what you mean, then I've got nothin' There's those two ECU's in the trunk... Don't really know what one of them does, though :X

            Comment


            • #7
              starters, the fuel pump thing is awesome if your running alot of power and hitting fuel cut which your not so dont bother you use way more gas because what it does is your fuel pump kinda regulates how much fuel to bring through the lines, ie if you arer full throttle or not. grounding that wire makes it go 100% all the time and wears out your pump 2x as fast.


              i had this same issue its bucking basically right? maf. maf. maf. i replaced mine and bingo bobs your uncle no more bucking. also check out the o2 but reading up i seen you did. check your spark plug gap, .027 is where it should be make sure your boost lines and everything are connected and in the right spot. check your coil packs. my car had some serious issues last season after replacing all of this its working 100% on rb's these are the biggest issues i personally havent even touched the tps but that could be part of your "easy boost" issue.



              edddit: its not on the ecu theres a clip in your trunk where the fuelpump cover is and you snip the ground and ground it out on the bolt. * atleast in an s chassis im pretty sure the r chassis are the same setup.
              Rolling face 2010.

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              • #8
                i just finished grounding the white wire from the harness leading to the box in the trunk. ill see if this corrects my leaning issue at WOT or not. if it does, ill leave it grounded....if it does no diferent, then ill connect it back as was.

                if it were related to the Coilpacks, you would notice this as the car would be violent. so i know its not my coilpacks in my situation.
                .......GTRCANADA.COM
                Canada's premier Skyline enthusiast club

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                • #9
                  Problem solved, it wasnt getting enough fuel. This now HAULS AZZ!!!!!

                  it works like a ding dang now and just to think ive had this issue for a long time now! hahahah. Ive replaced the MAF and resoldered as mentioned, fuel pump, lines, filter, etc.....ALL cuz a fooking wire? Bwhahahaha
                  .......GTRCANADA.COM
                  Canada's premier Skyline enthusiast club

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                  • #10
                    I'm beginning to think I'm having a fuel issue as well. I mostly came to this after some fast runs in fourth and fifth gear (done in a controlled racetrack enviornment ) where the car would begin surging like crazy at WOT, but would accelerate fine, and pretty quickly, at about 75-80% throttle. Above that, surging, like it wasn't getting enough fuel. It doesn't do this in first or second gear (i didnt try it in third), perhaps because there's more load in the higher gears. I'm going to finally do my fuel filter, as well as try the grounded fuel pump mod temporarily to see if that fixes it. It hasn't realy occured to me that I have stock injectors and most likely a stock pump too, and I'm running 12psi (no controller, just gets up to 12 with my breathing mods).

                    Hopefully the pump mod/finally doing the fuel filter will help, if it does, hello new pump + adjustable fpr time. I have a mines ecu which i believe has afr's for up to 14.7psi, so i should be okay as far as that goes. Man do I ever need a wideband

                    edit: i think im going to have to gap my plugs too, they're 1.1mm, but don't seem to cause any problems driving normally, however my fourth and fifth gear WOT pulls could have been blowing the spark out perhaps? I'm still gonna try the fuel pump mod just because the car has always been down on power. with my luck, the pump is the original, 18 year old pump.

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                    • #11
                      Regap. That could be your problem, because I believe it blows out the spark at 12psi at that gap. You might also want to replace your coils. Next meet take me for a drive and I'll tell you if it's what my car was doing before I replaced my coilpacks. It was night and day the difference I got after putting in new ones.

                      As for the warm-up power on - power off thing, my car does that too on warm up. I generally go out, start the car, let it run on the turbo timer for 8 minutes, go out and drive away. Sometimes I wake up late. Or head out suddenly, so I just take her easy on the way out. Does the same thing, but I just attributed it to the cooler engine temp and the car changing to a different map. From what I understand (could be talking out of my ass) it's basically like the choke on a carbuerated car during warm-up. It changes air/fuel mixtures until it reaches operating temp. I drove a few carb's as DD's. **** that sucked.
                      DISCLAIMER: If any of the above comments in this post hurt your feelings you are likely taking me too seriously; I'm probably just busting your balls. If you're unsure, feel free to PM me and we can discuss the matter privately, as to not pull the thread OT.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Snow
                        Regap. That could be your problem, because I believe it blows out the spark at 12psi at that gap. You might also want to replace your coils. Next meet take me for a drive and I'll tell you if it's what my car was doing before I replaced my coilpacks. It was night and day the difference I got after putting in new ones.

                        As for the warm-up power on - power off thing, my car does that too on warm up. I generally go out, start the car, let it run on the turbo timer for 8 minutes, go out and drive away. Sometimes I wake up late. Or head out suddenly, so I just take her easy on the way out. Does the same thing, but I just attributed it to the cooler engine temp and the car changing to a different map. From what I understand (could be talking out of my ass) it's basically like the choke on a carbuerated car during warm-up. It changes air/fuel mixtures until it reaches operating temp. I drove a few carb's as DD's. **** that sucked.
                        Hmm, yeah ill give you a ride next meet, hopefully it's the same problem you had. I'm pretty sure my coils are original, so that could definitely be it. I know you are using splitfire coils now, but have you heard anything about yellowjacket coils? For the price I don't expect much, but you never know these days.

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                        • #13
                          YellowJackets are good coils as well. And the price is decent. The group buy through performance wise is like $370CAD shipped. But then you have to wait 2 weeks for them to get here, and likely pay some form of customs or duties when they show up. A new set of Splitfires you can pick up and put in your car that day would cost you $430. For me the extra $60 was well worth not having to wait, and I figured on a $370 item, you could end up paying more than that for customs.
                          DISCLAIMER: If any of the above comments in this post hurt your feelings you are likely taking me too seriously; I'm probably just busting your balls. If you're unsure, feel free to PM me and we can discuss the matter privately, as to not pull the thread OT.

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                          • #14
                            Funny Snow, mine arrived in about a week and I didn't have to pay any customs.
                            R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
                            http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

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                            • #15
                              Those were just my assumptions haha.

                              In which case, F it and go for YellowJackets. Patience is a virtue hahaha.
                              DISCLAIMER: If any of the above comments in this post hurt your feelings you are likely taking me too seriously; I'm probably just busting your balls. If you're unsure, feel free to PM me and we can discuss the matter privately, as to not pull the thread OT.

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