boost and power problems need help asap

[floger70]

so i just got gas tonight at the gas station i always go to and out supreme in it as usual. the car was working great before i got gas but when i turned the corner at the gas station when leaving and shifted into second and tried to accelerate the car spitted and died. wasnt sure what happened so i coasted to a stop and tried to start it. started no problem but wont idle. i started to move again and noticed that as soon as it hits boost it dies like it did above. i managed to limp the poor thing home but its dark and cold and havnt been able to pop the hood till tomorrow. just wondering if this is signs of a coupler loose or piping thats leaking or turbo thats blown. the oil pressure and heat gauge read fine and were no issues there.

specs on the car:
1991 gts-t type m
garrett t25 turbo, new last year,
stock computer fig.
stock boost
4inch hks exhaust
blitz BOV
fidanza clutch
stock sidemount intercooler

any insight or things i should look at immediately would be a great help.
thanks
brett

[GavinJohnson]

sounds like a boost leak or bad maf.

[floger70]

its weird though because it jsut happened outta the blue so i dont see how it could be a boost leak just happen not gradually get worse type of thing. maybe im wrong but the MAF might be? anything else?

[89Baysideblue]

i say vacuum leak or possibly a coupler came loose?

[DreadedFist]

its weird though because it jsut happened outta the blue so i dont see how it could be a boost leak just happen not gradually get worse type of thing. maybe im wrong but the MAF might be? anything else?

A vacuum hose could have split in two after years of almost cracking/splitting... That's what happened to me, one of the lines from the charcoal canister, where it goes into the manfold, had completely split in two. Now THAT's a vacuum leak, lol.

Try opening the MAF up and resoldering it.

[floger70]

okay. ill check all this stuff out tomorrow morning.

[Skym]

Faulty MAF won't let engine rev above 2000-3000rpm and should make engine idle at 1500rpm when warm. Also MAF error code on ECU.

Also could be a bad batch of fuel (It happens, not the first time I've heard of it happening) and ECU is cutting engine to protect engine from knock. Might need to drain fueltank, refill via using bottles from another service station.

Or could be one of those blonde lady moments and put diesel in fueltank without noticing (I'm joking). . Or fuelstation did by accident.

[floger70]

haha. no definatlywas not diesel. they dont even sell diesel where i got gas haha. my mom has done that though haha. the bad batch of gas thing i though about but it sounds more like a boost leak while driving. sounds like the air from the turbo is leaking bad under the hood. like i said i never poped the hood yet. ill be doing that in the morning but it started literally about 20-30 seconds after starting the car after getting gas and wont idle at all. i was watching my boost gauge and it drove fine when it was at full vacuum or close to it but as soon as it came up past about -3.5 mmhg it would try to bod like there was no air getting to it and if i push the clutch in a rev it up it was fine as it wasnt building boost then.

[Skym]

Since you have what I presume is a whistle sound, engine hard to start, then airleak after turbo. Check tightness of all intake hose clamps after turbo. Sometimes it's the hoseclamp infront of turbo (hard to get at without removing intake piping above it) as well as other intake hose clamps.

I got fed up with loose stock intake hose clamps and airleaks, so fitted these intake hose clamps -

http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=480&P=68648

Solved the airleak problem. Amazing how responsive engine is when there's no airleaks. All I hear is the slight podfilter whistle around 0 on boost gauge. But have to remember to tighten them properly (until you can't turn them anymore), or you'll get airleaks.

[floger70]

i have a similar tbolt style clamp on the coupler from the turbo to the intake tubing for that side of the intercooler but i will be going out and double checking everything shortley

[floger70]

found the problem as fixed it. i had replaced the alternator belt the other day and took of some of the intercooler tubing on the ac side to be able to move the ac pump in to get the belt off and when i put it back together one of the pieces of piping running from the turbo to the intercooler just before it goes through the engine bay into the wheel well must not have went all the way on the following piece of pipe and poped off. just loosened the clamp up and shoved it back on all the way and tightened it all up. good as new now. thanks for the help guys.

[DreadedFist]

found the problem as fixed it. i had replaced the alternator belt the other day and took of some of the intercooler tubing on the ac side to be able to move the ac pump in to get the belt off and when i put it back together one of the pieces of piping running from the turbo to the intercooler just before it goes through the engine bay into the wheel well must not have went all the way on the following piece of pipe and poped off. just loosened the clamp up and shoved it back on all the way and tightened it all up. good as new now. thanks for the help guys.

Effing boost leaks!!!

[floger70]

man i never thought that they affected the car this much, just thought a slight loss of power or something. never had it happened but i know now. what a difference though

[MikeRWK]

boost leaks ftl

[Skym]

Airleak can affect air to idle valves. Especially when airleak is near throttlebody.