HELP! R33 GTST is running extremely rich

[Slavg87]

Hi everyone, I need help with my R33 series 1 gtst. I'm using emanage ultimate on a stock ecu, 15psi boost, fmic, exhaust etc etc. For some reason when I start the car, its running really rich to a point that its shooting black smoke out of the exhaust. wideband is showing 10:1, emanage datalog is showing maf voltage on idle 2.45 or higher. I know it should be around 1.4 or so, so if I manually input the voltage for the maf, the car runs fine, and the maf voltage input shows approx 1.45v, but as soon as I start using the maf, it jumps to approx 2.5v. I thought the maf was f***ed, so I changed it to Z32 maf, and it still does the same sh*t. What could possibly screw up the maf voltage to this point? My next step is to rewire everything back to stock and try to start the car. I need some ideas what to check and what could possibly cause this problem. Any input is appreciated. thx

[love_boost]

when you put the Z32 maf in did you retune it? also did you check for boost leaks?

[Slavg87]

when you put the Z32 maf in did you retune it? also did you check for boost leaks?

I'm not even getting to a point when boost kicks in. If there was a leak at this point it would be a vacuum leak and would cause a lean condition, not super rich.. I did try to retune the idle but the voltage output is stuck at 2.45 and the ecu thinks there's tons of air entering the engine and sprays a lot of fuel

[Brendan]

Few things I'd try:

1) throw the e-damage in the garbage

2) try cutting the maf signal wire by the maf to see if it's the emanage sending it or the maf, if it is an electrical issue

3) check for boost leaks, even at idle it'll cause it to do exactly what you're describing, I forgot to tighten the turbo outlet elbow yesterday and it was at 10.0:1, shooting black smoke at idle. The turbo still pushes the air out at idle.

[Slavg87]

The thing is the emanage worked fine ever since I put it in in march. I cut the maf signal wire and bypassed the emanage, still the same thing. One thing ure missing out tho is when I manually input the maf voltage to 1.40 in the software at idle, the car runs fine. Vacuum is stable, mixture is ok and it's not shooting black smoke out. As soon as I switch from airflow output map to airflow adjustment map, give it a little throttle and the maf voltage gets stuck at 2.40
And the funny thing is if I'm using the airflow output map, looking at the maf input signal, it works fine. Idles at 1.43 or so. I have no idea what else it could be.

[89Baysideblue]

lambda

[speed]

Check for fuel preassure regulator!

[Slavg87]

ok so I found the problem. it was a major boost leak. one of the intercooler pipes poped off. the pipe that sits behind the front bumper so it was impossible to see. i stuck my hand in there and felt it. so thanks everyone for the suggestions and ideas.
now i have another problem. the car runs perfectly fine when its cold. after driving it for about 15-20 mins depending on the weather(hot or cold) it starts running weird. when taking off it feels like its gonna stall. it feels like it misfires for a second and then picks up and accelerates fine. if I let off the throttle and put in in neutral, the afr`s are falling down to 17ish and slowly climb back up to 14.5
things ive tried doing:
replace the ignitor, play around with the nvcs, replace the maf with a z32 one, clean the iac motor and throttle body. im running out of ideas. if anyone had this problem or something similar, please let me know, cuz my car really starting to piss me off.
thanks for your time

[love_boost]

a coil pack is on its way out most likely

[Skym]

Or there is a airleak just behind MAF (loose intake hose clamp, crack in rubber intake piping, which can be found inbetween ribs), as they are the symptoms of a airleak in that area. Should notice it happens when exiting motorway. Produces a similar stutter / miss to coilpack failing, so check both.

Coilpack should be obvious, as has grey tracking marks on both sides of coilpack under mounting bracket (leaks and arcs against mounting bracket when seal holding 2 parts of coilpack together fails and less charge reaches spark plug). Also sparkplug tip can be black on that cylinder, so pulling spark plugs can confrim which coilpack it is.

17.0:1 is really lean, 14.5:1 is richer, 10.0:1 is rich.

At idle 14.5:1-14.7:1 is normal for stock engine. Under full boost at lower rpm's until peak hp, boost at high rpms, 11.6:1 is safe.

[Slavg87]

I forgot to mention I have brand new splitfires installed and i have just changed the plugs since ive had the boost leak issue. ill check for cracks in the piping maybe youre right.

[Slavg87]

ok checked all piping and all vacuum lines for leaks, no luck car still runs like **** when its warm. gonna go to a tuner tomorrow see if he can gimme some ideas

[Slavg87]

Ok now it's getting really f***ed up. Nobody knows WTF is wrong with my car.. I went to the tuner today, we checked a couple things and couldn't find the problem.. Any help is appreciated from u guys...

[Skym]

Then remove, pull Emanage ECU apart carefully and check the chip on side of board. It usually has glue on top of it with newer generations of the Emanage ECU (obvious to spot with glue), so won't get dislodged when putting board back into case. If chip is dislodged when putting board back into ECU casing, Emanage ECU might play up. Not easy to spot if you don't know that it can happen.

[RSi]

Or..... throw the emanage away, pick up a Z32 ecu and a nistune board, and tune it properly