Bad results on the Dyno

[Supraclean]

Yea turbos pretty decent I think thats where all there RD went to. Hopefully last you untill upgrade time.

[BongRips]

I'm assuming it will. I haven't heard of anybody's crapping out so far and the longest and most km of heard on one so far was over 2 years @ 16psi and put on over 60k. I'm definitely gonna make sure to run the timer everytime before I shut it off though. And I shouldn't need to upgrade the turbo as I'm only shooting for 11-12s and around 400whp which is what the turbo is rated to. I know the list of other things I need though.

[Skym]

Engine oilcooler + oiltemp gauge + oilpressure gauge. Also prime turbo with oil before starting engine.

Turbo failure is due to not priming turbo with oil after fitting new turbo (before starting engine), high oiltemps, high shaft speed (higher boost level) with off balance turbo. That's why a custom hybrid turbo is better as know it has been balanced and known common failure problems are solved.

To run a 12.4sec 1/4 mile requires 350whp on Nitto drag radials with 4 door R32 GTS-T. Also I think strip was prepped. 400whp would be low 12, high 11. Adjust rear via adjustable upper arms to dial out camber when squatting and hold onto gear over 1/4 mile mark to keep engine at peak hp, peak boost.

[BongRips]

Thanks for the info. My boss is setting up my suspension for me in the spring as he used to build many 8-10 second muscle cars and he knows his ****. I know the turbo is balanced well as I had it inspected before I had it installed so I know that it was also primed before starting too.

[Skym]

That 4 door R32 GTS-T had off the shelf HSD? (light green colour) brand coilovers.

Also might have had Whiteline pineapple bushes for rear subframe mounts and setup for maximum traction -

http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/203a_KCA349.pdf

Also a one piece propshaft (gearbox to diffhead) is a good investment.

[BongRips]

I'll be swapping out the tiny rb20 gearbox once it blows anyway. And at that point, I'll be putting in an rb25 one and going one piece drive shaft at that time. Little by little this is gonna get done, I wanna sink a bunch of money into this, but I don't wanna do it all at once and then be broke and ****** lol. Those bushings look like a good investment though. For adjustability on my coilovers, what features should be adjustable so I can set it up properly for the strip

[MKIV]

Well after a short conversation, looks like I'll only be tuning my RB25 for no more than 400whp. I don't like the idea of making more than double what the engine made stock on the stock internals, and it's a daily I don't want to keep repairing...so 400 should keep me happy for now.

[BongRips]

400whp is still a lot in a 2800 pound car haha! I'm on stock internals right now, but my motto is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But once something goes I always upgrade instead of going with a direct replacement. I won't be running more than 16psi so my head gasket should hold up for until it needs to be replaced. I'll eventually do fully upgraded internals and bore/stroke to 2.4L probably go with the most aggressive tomei cams and overbored valves and solid lifters, etc. all as I can afford it obviously as its not gonna be cheap to get over the 350-400whp mark. Hell, its not gonna be cheap to pick up the rest of the stuff I already need probably

[MKIV]

400whp is still a lot in a 2800 pound car haha! I'm on stock internals right now, but my motto is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But once something goes I always upgrade instead of going with a direct replacement. I won't be running more than 16psi so my head gasket should hold up for until it needs to be replaced. I'll eventually do fully upgraded internals and bore/stroke to 2.4L probably go with the most aggressive tomei cams and overbored valves and solid lifters, etc. all as I can afford it obviously as its not gonna be cheap to get over the 350-400whp mark. Hell, its not gonna be cheap to pick up the rest of the stuff I already need probably

Yeah I hear you man. The way I see it, I owned slow cars, then my old rb20 wasn't too bad at 264whp, so 400whp will be a huge step up.

[Skym]

You don't need to do alot to RB20DET for a fairly reliable 400whp, as shown on this 413rwhp R32 RB20DET powered racecar with RB25DET gearbox, etc -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSkFzn4rZ1U

On racetrack -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lk1PZcHaUs

Engine has forged pistons (look at comments under videoclip) and still uses stock conrods, stock conrod bolts (only reving to around 7500rpm). Upgraded valve springs (I found valve bounce marks on my cars cams after reving to 7500rpm, so good investment to fit upgrade valve springs) stock cams, I assume bronze valve guides (Tomei), oilpump collar?, ARP rod bolts, metal headgasket, upgraded bearings, etc. Also a accusump to prevent oil starvation when cornering and prelube engine before startup. Has enough hp to pass EVO's.

[BongRips]

Thanks for all that info. Looks like I may have some hope at making this work out first thing in the spring still

[MKIV]

You don't need to do alot to RB20DET for a fairly reliable 400whp, as shown on this 413rwhp R32 RB20DET powered racecar with RB25DET gearbox, etc -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSkFzn4rZ1U

On racetrack -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lk1PZcHaUs

Engine has forged pistons (look at comments under videoclip) and still uses stock conrods, stock conrod bolts (only reving to around 7500rpm). Upgraded valve springs (I found valve bounce marks on my cars cams after reving to 7500rpm, so good investment to fit upgrade valve springs) stock cams, I assume bronze valve guides (Tomei), oilpump collar?, ARP rod bolts, metal headgasket, upgraded bearings, etc. Also a accusump to prevent oil starvation when cornering and prelube engine before startup. Has enough hp to pass EVO's.

What about the RB25? I have stock internals on my Series 1 RB25. 1.2mm metal head gasket, ARP head studs, N1 water pump, N1 oil pump and Tomei timing belt. Is 400whp a "safe" daily driver?

[BongRips]

I know I've read that the rb25 is fine on 400whp. I'm pretty sure 450whp is the limit for stock internals, but I could be wrong. But I know that 400whp is safe on stock internals for the 25

I'd recommend an oil cooler also, just to keep things at a better temp. And I was also thinking about putting on a Nismo or Tomei rad cap and thermostat too as they aren't expensive and they should help out too

[Skym]

Oops, didn't mean ARP rod bolts (they were using stock rod bolts as couldn't find an aftermarket alternative for stock RB20DET conrods), meant ARP head bolts, etc.

RB25DET is limited by compression it runs. As far as I know most stick to 20psi max with say a GT3076R turbo or equivalent turbo (TD06, etc). At I think was 17psi?, GT3076R with correct exhaust housing, aggressive ECU tune, etc produces around 402whp.

From what I understand, higher pressure radiator cap is used on thicker radiator (Nismo or similar) due to pressure drops and usually need upgraded headgasket, upgraded water plugs (to handle higher pressure) to suit. Also higher pressure radiator cap is used on radiator with header tank setup (header tank separates air bubbles that are created by waterpump from coolant, as the air bubbles can clog passages in radiator, etc and make engine overheat when at high revs all the time). N1 waterpump due to blade design reduces the creation of bubbles at high rpm, but is not good if engine is idling alot in stop and start traffic (stock waterpump is better).

On stock radiator it's just going to overpressurise the stock cooling system and waterpump leaks, headgasket or water plugs could blow, top tank on radiator could blow gasket and leak, etc. Basically I was warned not to do it on stock cooling system.

[BongRips]

Oh really? Cuz somebody recommended to me that I should do the rad cap and thermostat.