ARP head stud questions

[TheyKilledKenny]

I have some ARP head studs coming in for my RB22 and Im wondering how much torque they need and what the tightening sequence is. I dont have a service manual for my car Do you guys put loctite on the stud before double nutting it into the block, or just oil? I dont have an engine hoist and I more then likely will be doing this operation myself, is it feasible to swap my old bolts with new studs without removing the head and chasing the bolt holes?

Im going to remove my valve covers to paint them, what are the bolts torqued to on these, and what is their sequence?

Any help would be appreciated.

[Zacho]

The ARP's will come with a guide in the box. You will install them with 30wt oil or ARP specific lube(comes with). If I remember right recommend you to go in increments up to the max value. Or to use a stretch gauge.

When the current head bolts have the tension removed, the headgasket will remain compressed(what kind is in there anyway), and it would not seal properly afterwards. You have to replace the gasket. So the head has to come off. I've heard of diesel guys doing them 1by1 on a non-aluminum head to keep the gasket compressed, but we don't have cast iron heads.

Tightening sequence(reverse for removal):

[TheyKilledKenny]

I have a metal head gasket, I wonder if I could get away with doing them one at a time aswell without stressing the aluminum.

[supersayianjim]

so what does a stretch gauge look like?? and do you recommend any specifc type of gasket remover(or just a regular scraper)??

[Super_Dude]

You dont tighten them into the block. Put them in hand tight and torque down the head

[TheyKilledKenny]

You dont tighten them into the block. Put them in hand tight and torque down the head

Thx man

[JNS Performance]

Download "The GTR Bible" or w/e. It shows the steps to removing and reinstalling the head, follow the proper torquing procedures on the headstuds and use ARPs torque specs!

[Skym]

Torque info should be on ARP packet. If not on packet, look at part number on ARP packet, torque specs on ARP website. There should be torque specs with ARP lube and with oil?.

With stock headstuds, should torque down in sequence (stretches headstuds), slacken off in sequence, then torque down in sequence again and that's it. But be aware ARP headstuds come in different tenstile strengths for different applications.

[M13]

you must follow the torquing sequence.

Also the studs have an allen key hole on top, that's what you use to install. Don't hand tighten by grabbing the studs but use those allen key holes and tighten by hand then follow torque.


Keep in mind you'll have to loosen in REVERSE of the torquing specs during torquing sequence or you'll warp the gasket or aluminum and you'll have higher chance of failure.

Torquing sequence is referred in the FSM or ARP site.

[amnash]

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/parts-sale/44781-r32-gtr-sevice-manual.html

[TheyKilledKenny]

The studs came in today. Im hoping I can just do one stud at a time. My engine was rebuilt only 14months ago, but oem studs were used. I want to keep my metal head gasket compressed. Im thinking that Ill swap them out one at a time, then torque ARPs to 80psi. Im a little worried about doing the four corner studs like this though. Any thoughts? Anyone tried this?

[Zacho]

I noted the older diesel guys because they have cast iron heads. Trying it on an aluminum head I would consider playing with fire. Ask yourself - are these headstuds worth the hassle?

Half ass now, could cause you big headaches later.

[jdms13rhd]

I have re used metal head gaskets with the head pulled off many on a rb without a problem. Its the oem gasket that busts apart. I know of people using metal head gaskets on SR20's 5 times pulling the head off with no issues. But spray permetex and give each side a light spray. Get a straight edge (metal meter stick or like) and you can measure the decks of the block and head for any warpage. That is in the GTR FSm that was posted earlier. if everything is okay and surface is clean there is no pint in and machine work. I've never done the one at a time thing but if you did do that I really couldnt see you having any issues. If you did it would be a one out of a hundred thing. Not sure if I would do it myself. If the head is warped I want to know of it and repair it.

If you really cant figure it out how to install these than the only thing you should do is call ARP. They have a 1800 number listed on their site. If I EVER have a question regarding a product installation inquiry I always call the company direct rather then get 5 different answers on the forums. Then post it on the forums if you want for people that need the info later. That way there is never any confusion.

http://www.arp-bolts.com

I use the arp lube. Its a non metal bio degradable material specifically designed for engine parts. Your kit should get a little packet of it or you can buy a 1-2 oz bottle of it for like $6 at mopac or other performance shop.

[TheyKilledKenny]

Very good info thanks

It shouldnt be too hard to figure out. I have a torque wrench, I just need the correct torque sequence. The head was skimmed 2500km ago, so it should be good. I havent had any over heating problems, and I havent taken it over 5000rpm since the rebuild. I was thinking of doing it one at a time to save myself the hassle of stripping then bolting back up the intake and exhaust sides.

But spray permetex and give each side a light spray

Im guessing your talking about a spray adhesive for the metal gasket? Good to know for the future.