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240sx HICAS Lockout On A R32

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  • 240sx HICAS Lockout On A R32

    I bought a R32 GTST without the HICAS solenoid so Ive just decided to lock it out would this work even thought it says s13 240's




  • #2
    Hey
    From what I read places for my hicas delete project to come, there all the same in the rear for the hicas system lock-bars. Dont quote me but im almost sure its good.
    Good luck
    always building .... Finally own a 1993 BNR32

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    • #3
      ^ I second that. If you go to any website I will show you that the hicas bars are compatible. But once you start using other components like coilovers s13=32 gts, 300zx tt = gtr from my knowledge anyways. If I'm wrong please do chyme in!
      Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

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      • #4
        s13 rear subframe is same as gts-t i can vouch, as i'm running s13 knuckles, subframe, gts-t hubs and brakes and diff and axel shafts had gts-t rucas and everything lines up perfectly. so common sense would say the lockout bar has too be 100% compatable

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        • #5
          Thanks for the feedback everybody.

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          • #6
            Yes it is compatible. The s13 and r32 gts rear subframe is exactly the same. thats why its common for people to find a non-hicas s13 subframe and swap it into the skyline.

            All the rear suspension components are the same too Hicas to hicas and Non-hicas to Non-Hicas. The only part that isn't interchangeable is the Rear toe rod and thats only if your going from Hicas to non-hicas, or vice versa
            sigpic


            Originally posted by m_melen
            ...it woulda been safer if his harness were made of jello

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            • #7
              Would this hicas lock out bar work for r32 GTR though? I am looking to buy one but the ones around Vancouver BC are just way too overpriced.

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              • #8
                GTS, GTR should be the same.

                I have the same type of lockbar on my car. Only problem is your still using the factory balljoints which are a pain to remove from hub due to grease nipple, etc when they fail.

                If had to do it again, this is what I would fit (or similar kit from Japan) -



                Fitting the above kit -

                I fitted the Driftworks Total HICAS Eliminator Kit this weekend. Here's a how-to for anyone thinking of getting themselves this kit. If you're reading...


                It removes the balljoints and easier to replace parts.
                RESPONSE MONSTER

                The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                • #9
                  Speaking of the rear tie rod, since the 240 isn't the same as the r32 and using a 300zx tt wont fit either, what other car uses the same rear tie rod?

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                  • #10
                    Thanks Skym!

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                    • #11
                      You're welcome.

                      There is a aftermarket balljoint, probably $30 CAD. Factory balljoint is not lubed at factory and has to be luded via nipple. Aftermarket balljoint is prelubed. Don't know the brand of balljoint.
                      Last edited by Skym; 03-26-2011, 04:07 AM.
                      RESPONSE MONSTER

                      The most epic signature ever "epic".

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        When I did my lock bar. I bought the lubed ball joints from z-tune when they were open. And to get them out I used a pitman arm pulled from c-tire and a large nut on the back side and they came out no problem. To get them back in use a socket that is just wide enough to catch edge or make your own to fit. Worked great.

                        But if I had the money and time to do it what skym said I would definitely recommend that!!

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                        • #13
                          The only thing that bothers me about the driftworks kit is using poly pushes instead of a solid joint. Am i crazy to think there will be minor deflection in toe during driving?
                          oh hai!

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                          • #14
                            Good point. Probably why factory used balljoints. One thing I noticed with movement in one of those arms (factory) is you can feel the wheel break traction on that side when cornering and noticed excessive tyre wear.

                            This is version of the same HICAS eliminator kit from Japan (maybe the kits in Japan are better???) -



                            Maybe they use hardened rubber bushes or similar???

                            Also I would worry about not greasing the rod, etc properly, as from experience if metal of arm to metal rod part of poly bush locks, can rip poly bush apart. Did it on top arms on front of my car.
                            Last edited by Skym; 03-27-2011, 03:11 AM.
                            RESPONSE MONSTER

                            The most epic signature ever "epic".

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              what kit is that?
                              oh hai!

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