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Hey guys.
Well I'm not sure if this has been covered but just incase I thought I'd post it up. This install goes for either an OE, 300zx, GTR or Walboro pumps.
It's neat that it's EXACTLY the same as a 180sx/240sx/S13 Silvia. Nissan sure is smart.
Anyway here goes.
Tools Required: Phillip's screw driver, 10mm socket wrench, wire strippers/crimpers, needle nose plyers and 2-4 electrical crush fittings (if they are'nt provided)
1. Open the gas tank and unscrew the gas cap to release the air preasure.
2. Pull the fuel pump fuse and put it off to the side for a second.
3. Start the car untill the engine stops to get all the fuel out of the lines. You may want to start it up a couple of more times to be sure all the fuel is out of the lines. Then put the fuse back.
4. Pull the carpet up in the trunk on the right side.
5. You will then see a cover plate with an arrow pointing to the front of the car, held by two (2) screws, and an access panel, held by four (4) screws, with wires leading across and down towards the tank.
6. Take the two (2) screws off of the cover plate and to reveal the fuel pump wire harness and un-clip it. There is now NO power and your safe to work.
7. Now remove the four (4) screws holding on the access panel. Underneath you'll see the fuel sending unit cover held on by six (6) bolts and two (2) fuel lines attached to it as well held by spring clamps.
8. Start by using a pair of plyers and slide the clamps back so you can detach the lines from the unit. Remember to slide them back far enough so the lines will come off but, not to far that you can't easily grab them when it comes time to put the unit back in. Also be VERY carefull when removing the fuel hoses off of the sending unit as I've seen the metal pipes crack all to often. If that does happen, don't fret to hard as there is a solution. At Canadian Tire is a product call Steel Easy which is a cold weld and looks like clay. You simply remove enough to cover and fill in the crack, combine the two compounds together between your fingers and apply it firmly and smooth it out. It drys pretty quick so make sure to get it on there. It does take a full 24hrs to fully cure and harden so DO NOT turn on the car for that period of time. This stuff is gasoline proof so it will not come off once it's hardened. You've now saved your sending unit. If you break the pipe right off well......your SOL!
9. Then remove the six (6) bolts and take the entire unit out of the tank. The trunk access panel will still be attached so don't worry. Try to shake off as much gas as you can and put a rag under it and carry it over to a table to work on.
10. You will see a postive and negative wire (Red and Black respectively) on the old pump. Clip those wires in the middle. Then clip the Zap Strap holding the pump to the actual unit.
11. There will be a piece of fuel hose attached to the pump in the center. Using plyers, slide the spring clamp up and pull the hose off the pump. There may also be a breather tube on the pump. Remove that too!
12. The pump should now be free and clear. Take your new pump and new filter bag and attach it to the new pump at the bottom by pushing it on. Then attach the new ruber mount to bottom of the pump. You can also use the sponge sleve and slide it over the pump now if you wish. I did'nt bother though.
13. Now using the wires provided with pump, attach the positive and negative wire, respectabely, back together. Then attach them to the correct terminals on your new pump. With Walboro's there is a harness that clips in to the pump and then you splice together the wires to the sending unit. Use crush fittings for ALL wire connections NOT tape. The gas will make the tape come off easily (no matter what type you use) and you'll have that floating around in your tank. You then can attach the fuel hose back on to the center of pump and slide the spring clamp back in place. With some new pumps the breather tube was not needed but it may be with yours. Make sure to check that.
14. Using the new Zap Straps, secure the new pump on to the sending unit. Your now ready to put it back in the tank. Just bolt and screw everything back in place in the reverse order. Don't forget to attach the two (2) fuel lines too. Now clip the harness back together in the trunk and your ready to try and start the car.
First turn the key to the "ON" position and listen to hear the pump. It will sound like a humming sound. If you hear that you know you installed it right. Start the car. It may take a couple of try's but if everything is done right your car will come to life. That's it, your done!
Hope this helps anyone wanting to change there pumps. It's easy and only minimal tools are required and a little mechanical knowledge.
Good luck .
Cheers 8)
Well I'm not sure if this has been covered but just incase I thought I'd post it up. This install goes for either an OE, 300zx, GTR or Walboro pumps.
It's neat that it's EXACTLY the same as a 180sx/240sx/S13 Silvia. Nissan sure is smart.
Anyway here goes.
Tools Required: Phillip's screw driver, 10mm socket wrench, wire strippers/crimpers, needle nose plyers and 2-4 electrical crush fittings (if they are'nt provided)
1. Open the gas tank and unscrew the gas cap to release the air preasure.
2. Pull the fuel pump fuse and put it off to the side for a second.
3. Start the car untill the engine stops to get all the fuel out of the lines. You may want to start it up a couple of more times to be sure all the fuel is out of the lines. Then put the fuse back.
4. Pull the carpet up in the trunk on the right side.
5. You will then see a cover plate with an arrow pointing to the front of the car, held by two (2) screws, and an access panel, held by four (4) screws, with wires leading across and down towards the tank.
6. Take the two (2) screws off of the cover plate and to reveal the fuel pump wire harness and un-clip it. There is now NO power and your safe to work.
7. Now remove the four (4) screws holding on the access panel. Underneath you'll see the fuel sending unit cover held on by six (6) bolts and two (2) fuel lines attached to it as well held by spring clamps.
8. Start by using a pair of plyers and slide the clamps back so you can detach the lines from the unit. Remember to slide them back far enough so the lines will come off but, not to far that you can't easily grab them when it comes time to put the unit back in. Also be VERY carefull when removing the fuel hoses off of the sending unit as I've seen the metal pipes crack all to often. If that does happen, don't fret to hard as there is a solution. At Canadian Tire is a product call Steel Easy which is a cold weld and looks like clay. You simply remove enough to cover and fill in the crack, combine the two compounds together between your fingers and apply it firmly and smooth it out. It drys pretty quick so make sure to get it on there. It does take a full 24hrs to fully cure and harden so DO NOT turn on the car for that period of time. This stuff is gasoline proof so it will not come off once it's hardened. You've now saved your sending unit. If you break the pipe right off well......your SOL!
9. Then remove the six (6) bolts and take the entire unit out of the tank. The trunk access panel will still be attached so don't worry. Try to shake off as much gas as you can and put a rag under it and carry it over to a table to work on.
10. You will see a postive and negative wire (Red and Black respectively) on the old pump. Clip those wires in the middle. Then clip the Zap Strap holding the pump to the actual unit.
11. There will be a piece of fuel hose attached to the pump in the center. Using plyers, slide the spring clamp up and pull the hose off the pump. There may also be a breather tube on the pump. Remove that too!
12. The pump should now be free and clear. Take your new pump and new filter bag and attach it to the new pump at the bottom by pushing it on. Then attach the new ruber mount to bottom of the pump. You can also use the sponge sleve and slide it over the pump now if you wish. I did'nt bother though.
13. Now using the wires provided with pump, attach the positive and negative wire, respectabely, back together. Then attach them to the correct terminals on your new pump. With Walboro's there is a harness that clips in to the pump and then you splice together the wires to the sending unit. Use crush fittings for ALL wire connections NOT tape. The gas will make the tape come off easily (no matter what type you use) and you'll have that floating around in your tank. You then can attach the fuel hose back on to the center of pump and slide the spring clamp back in place. With some new pumps the breather tube was not needed but it may be with yours. Make sure to check that.
14. Using the new Zap Straps, secure the new pump on to the sending unit. Your now ready to put it back in the tank. Just bolt and screw everything back in place in the reverse order. Don't forget to attach the two (2) fuel lines too. Now clip the harness back together in the trunk and your ready to try and start the car.
First turn the key to the "ON" position and listen to hear the pump. It will sound like a humming sound. If you hear that you know you installed it right. Start the car. It may take a couple of try's but if everything is done right your car will come to life. That's it, your done!
Hope this helps anyone wanting to change there pumps. It's easy and only minimal tools are required and a little mechanical knowledge.
Good luck
.Cheers 8)
.
, yeah I should have mentioned that too. :P
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