intercooler piping is all intact. Could be the ignitor, however when I was diagnosing misfire issues within the past few months I swapped ignitors with a friend... And it was fine at the moment.
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Car wont start!!?
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Also boost/vacuum leak tested recently as well. Car cranked over fine as I was leaving the parking lot last night. Felt a shudder as I hit the gas in first.. Thought maybe I was in third. Shudder went away, cruised home on the highway fine. Shudder came back as I hit the gas in second. Symptoms were very similar to running out of gas. I was pretty close to empty, but I have added more fuel and still no start.
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My car starts now, so I dont think its the battery, but ill check again. I think what happened is I hit a bump in the road, knocked something loose, and it stalled out my car. Now the car just runs extremely rich 10.3 on Wideband. When I press the gas it hesitates (due to large amount of access fuel im assuming).
I will check for boost leaks, change use my friends ignitor. I took my O2 sensor out, and its caked in carbon, never seen one before, is that how its supposed to look?
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The last time i hit a pot whole going around 80/90 km the wire from my 02 sensor fell on my down pipe and melted a bit, but it was enough to damage the wires and cause a few of my injectors to blow and a few other problems, so double check ur 02 sensor and make sure there isn't any damage. after I replaced the sensor and the injectors my car ran fine
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Bit of an update:
The car started 5 days ago but still ran very rich, so I left it to sit till tonight, and now it wont start again.... It feels like its not getting fuel. So I checked the fuel hoses going into the rail, and there was fuel in them.
Tried my friends MAF and O2 sensor and it didnt help.
I tried putting my ECU into diagnostic mode but the light on the ECU just continues to flash red, even when I follow the directions from the manual. Does a flashing ECU mean something??
Thanks
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the flashing is the code it throwing
find a screwdriver small enough to turn the small dial...
-turn the ignition on ( but don't start the engine )
-the red LED will start to glow...
-CAREFULLY turn the small dial CLOCKWISE fully...
-the LED will go off...
-then turn the LED fully anticlockwise...
-the LED will start to flash...
-long flashes then short, repeatedly, until you switch off the ignition or start the car --if the sequence is five long then five short flashes, the code is 55, which means all is OK --3 long then 4 short means a faulty knock sensor, etc (see codes below).
you want a "55" = ok.
Codes:
11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit
13 Coolent temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU (ouch!)
34 Knock sensor
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OKundersteer -is when you go off the road and see the tree that kills you
oversteer-is when you go off the road backwards and dont see the tree that kills you
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I'm going to try this tomorrow. If mafs needed to be resoldered would it cause the engine not to run? I would think prolly not since you could run the car without them plugged in.... Just wondering. Also could the cam angle sensor be bad? Would the rb26 one happen to be the same as a rb20?Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!
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Originally posted by anthony View Postthe flashing is the code it throwing
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