Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Coil Pack Change OR ?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Coil Pack Change OR ?

    ok i'l get straight to the point, recently did those to my RB25DET:

    New GASKETS for the Intake, exhaust mani, valve cover, turbo.
    New timing belt, tensioners, water pump, fuel filter, thermostat
    Installed a rebuilt stock turbo with ball bearing, apexi filter, bombed the MAF with the CRC stuff

    ok turned on the car after 7 months of sitting, nice and smooth, waiting for thermostat to open, etc ....

    Then, I noticed the engine was shaking or hesitating a bit ...

    I checked all vacuums for any leak with different methods up and down and No leaks

    I can't smell any fuel and I checked all lines, around injectors, etc and all good.

    I checked my ECU and got 55. All good



    I had those Iridiums plugs on them and changed them to BCPR6ES gapped them to 0.8, but still the same.

    ok Coil packs ? I removed them and when testing them, I can see spark leaking from the boots ... ok no problem, removed the springs cleaned everything and tapped them, tested one, no spark leak. Put everything back together, still the same, now I know that taping them doesn't mean anything and it might still leak. should I changed those boots? are they even available for sale or worth it. I pmd Daryl and braden to ask if the have them ...


    There is an issue that I always had, before and after I changed those things I mentioned, it doesn't start normally, I always had to give little gas to start and warm up, but i really didnt car cause everything was normal but Im lookin into it more now.

    Is it time for new coils or maybe fuel pump

    any suggestions on what else to check here and there ....

    your help is much appreciated
    Last edited by mob_skyline; 05-12-2011, 12:45 PM.

  • #2
    If you have a code 55 then there isn't an issue with your ignition system. There is a code for ignition circuit problem.
    Was it shaking right away?

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey thanks ..

      No not right away, after the thermostat opened and evrything was fine or maybe I ddnt realize it while I was excited but ya ... It idle's fine and no oil or coolant leaks ... I haven't tried it on wheels yet, still sitting on jacks ..

      Its just that shake that keeps me wondering ...
      Last edited by mob_skyline; 05-12-2011, 06:01 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by mob_skyline View Post

        ok Coil packs ? I removed them and when testing them, I can see spark leaking from the boots ... ok no problem, removed the springs cleaned everything and tapped them, tested one, no spark leak. Put everything back together, still the same, now I know that taping them doesn't mean anything and it might still leak. should I changed those boots? are they even available for sale or worth it. I pmd Daryl and braden to ask if the have them ...
        hey the spark leaking around the boot, is that a big issue? i tested my coil packs and they were doing that too, i just though maybe because the spark plug wasnt grounded
        - Adam

        :
        http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/44846-project-nashzilla-r32-gt-t-neo.html

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by bobbo View Post
          If you have a code 55 then there isn't an issue with your ignition system. There is a code for ignition circuit problem.
          Was it shaking right away?
          Code 55 means no issues regulated by ECU... my guess COULD be that possibly you might have a coil plug mixed up, like a #5 plugged into a #4 or something. I accidentally did that with my Subaru and got engine shake, means your firing properly, just not proper order... i DON'T know if the ECU code check would pick up on that or not... like i said just a guess.

          How badly is it shaking? like a lot or just slightly..?
          Last edited by Ghost; 06-25-2011, 02:24 AM.
          You gotta pay to play.

          Comment


          • #6
            If revs are going up and down alot, intake manifold airleak (can happen if intake manifold wasn't put back properly or flange wasn't skimmed) due to o2 sensor picking up engine is running lean and ECU making revs drop (rich) and rise (lean). Did you skim flanges on intake manifold, etc???

            If slightly up and down with revs, hard to start when cold, oil could be too thick. Engine struggles to idle when oil is too thick and sounds like it's missing.

            Failed coilpack is obvious, as engine will miss throughout powerband when you rev engine. When on the way out it randomly starts missing at idle (running on 5 cylinders) and sometimes reving makes it go away (similar to airleak behind MAF). Usually it's only 2x coilpacks and the rest are ok. From what I can remember, on my car it was 4th, 5th cylinder coilpacks.

            Another is airleak just behind MAF (loose intake hose clamp or crack in piping behind MAF) that can make engine stutter at idle. Similar symptoms to coilpack failure and reving engine can make it stop.
            Last edited by Skym; 06-25-2011, 12:53 PM.
            RESPONSE MONSTER

            The most epic signature ever "epic".

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks guys. Here is an update on what happened. Took the car for a ride and didn't really care about the shake. It has so much power and was really fast with the turbo(upgraded stock with ball bearing) at 10psi screaming and that crazy flutter(bov blocked) No Miss, no problems at all.. amazing .. BUT smoke from exhaust and car just died after i kept it on idle when back at the shop. Didn't want to start at all. So, reason for not starting CAS was snapped !! Decided to take the head out and check it, check piston rings and change gasket

              Head out with Exhaust Manifold


              4 PISTONS were Cracked and started coming out in pieces when you touch them as well as the rings were broken too. What a nightmare! THANK GOD The walls were MINT and was honed ofcourse

              Head was Washed, checked guides for wear, changed valve seals, resurfaced

              Got some New Toys



              From Paul (Performance wise)


              When putting back the intake cam side it just snapped !! so, decided to go with those sweet bolt in application and more power
              Duration: IN,EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm



              I also GOT:

              OEM OIL PUMP
              OEM OIL STRAINER
              CAM ANGLE SENSOR

              As I also mentioned New GASKETS for the Intake, exhaust mani, valve cover, turbo.
              New timing belt, tensioners, water pump, fuel filter, thermostat. Everything was cleaned again here and there.
              Car has turbosmart MBC, Mishimoto RAD, FMIC, dump pipe, 3.5 inch straight exhaust, 3.5 magna flow muffler and thats about it.

              I am just waiting for some answers from sellers about the camshafts and order them right away and hopefully get it on the road soon.

              ECU was tuned by


              SPORT Z

              CENTRALPRO123

              I have no idea who they are and asked a bunch of guys with no answers, I tried askin here as well but nothing and google as well. so I dont know what has been done to it and will definitely be visiting RSTUNING to check it out


              ok, so with all those mentioned how much HP will I be making ? like roughly ?

              Thanks for your time guys

              Comment


              • #8
                how did u check the coils ?? cuz im having some problems with my car cranking but no start

                Comment

                Working...
                X