I believe I have removed the steering angle sensor then cause I bought a Sparco kit not the Boss one... Now I know why my light comes on.. Lol!
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drift mods are mostly in the rear end.
complete, basic list for the best result/$ :
non-hicas subframe swap.
while this is out, source an S13 hicas rear sway bar. Buy two 1.34mm r200 diff shims and replace the stock ones with these.
Before installing the non-hicas sub, install solid sub bushings.
inner front-tierod spacers. these are offered as aftermarket parts, I simply used a pocketful of machine washers from Rona.
T/C rods. vastly improves steering feel mid-drift.
coilovers. doesnt matter much early-on how adjustable/fancy these are, just get a bit lower and stiffer.
Done.
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Running a non HICAS R32 subframe with solid joints is better. Non HICAS R32 subframe is said to use a eccentric bolt (bush) for toe adjustment.
Also I forgot to mention ride height can affect understeer, oversteer, dive under braking (helps to make it shift weight over front wheels to lighten up rear which makes rear wheels skate / lose traction more), acceleration (half shaft angle). Ride height was another thing that was used to dial out understeer on my car.
It's a combination of changing alignment, bushes, swaybars, rideheight, suspension, etc.Last edited by Skym; 06-29-2011, 01:16 PM.RESPONSE MONSTER
The most epic signature ever "epic".
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I drift my R33 and this is what I did to make it minty and tight:
S14 subframe swap, everything lines up, just have to press some bushings into the rear knuckles instead of using hicas ball joints
- PBM RUCA
- PBM Toerod
- PBM Solid Subframe bushings
- Poly diff bushings
- NRG shorthub
- Sparco Deep dish wheel
An the piece de resistance...pulled my hicas bulb
This has made the car drift amazingly, and with the stock RB25 it walks around my buddies.
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