Oh Sh$& I have low oil pressure!!

[Got2BeBoosted]

Hello, so I've got a RB20det And it's got pretty low oil pressure what could this be besides oil pump??

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

My RB20 shows zero pressure while idling, installed an aftermarket gauge and whilst the stock gauge reads zero the aftermarket reads in around 20 - 30psi. Never rely on the stock gauges as they are pushing if not already 20 years of use. They become "lazy" and give false readings. Not to mention the stock sender has been in use for a long time and god knows what kind of crap has built up inside.

[r33_gtst]

It's an RB, low oil pressure is expected
Try a synthetic 15w50 oil, you will feel a world of difference.

[DarkCaporaL]

I would start by getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge if you don't have one. Don't rely on the stock one as previously stated.

[nelsonmxmarc]

It's an RB, low oil pressure is expected

Well that's not necessarily true..... i run 90 lbs of pressure on cold start.. 60-70 cruising 100+ km/h and 30-40 at idle depending on temps (generally 140-150f)

That's not bad, considering the type and size of pump the RB20 uses.


*Get an aftermarket gauge.. We can ALL agree, and the general consensus is - ignore the oem gauge.

[Spencer87]

hahaha...I love my stock gauges..on the topic of gauges, any one have any favs or is it just cosmetics?

[DarkCaporaL]

Well that's not necessarily true..... i run 90 lbs of pressure on cold start.. 60-70 cruising 100+ km/h and 30-40 at idle depending on temps (generally 140-150f)

That's not bad, considering the type and size of pump the RB20 uses.


*Get an aftermarket gauge.. We can ALL agree, and the general consensus is - ignore the oem gauge.

Me thinks you should abandon the American system and switch to metric.

[nelsonmxmarc]

I HATE, Fahrenheit.. it's such a pain.. All i know is that 200+f = bad.. lol

[Got2BeBoosted]

Thanks for the info definilty gonna grab an autometer oil press. Gauge really soon!

[BongRips]

I definitely agree with the switching to Celsius but personally I like psi over bar... What's are some good, inexpensive gauges? I am looking for a different boost gauge as mine is too small for my liking, an aftermarket oil pressure and oil temp. Preferably with black or white faces and red light. 60mm not 52mm too. Opinions? And where can I pick up a 3 gauge pod for either my a pillar or dash?

[nelsonmxmarc]

www.prosportgauges.com Great selection - quality stepper motor gauges. Have used them for 2 years w/o a hitch

I sell centre vent gauge pods. It does however, delete your centre vent.... FYI, real men don't use vents. Just saying.

http://nelsonmx.wordpress.com/services/r32-skyline-gtrgtst-parts/center-vent-gauge-holder/

[sunnypatz]

I have prosports gauges with nelsonmx's center vent pod and it's legitimately one of my most favorite part of the car lol

[r33_gtst]

Well that's not necessarily true..... i run 90 lbs of pressure on cold start.. 60-70 cruising 100+ km/h and 30-40 at idle depending on temps (generally 140-150f)

That's not bad, considering the type and size of pump the RB20 uses.


*Get an aftermarket gauge.. We can ALL agree, and the general consensus is - ignore the oem gauge.

Sure that is some safe oil pressure levels, but that's on a cold start, cruising and idle. RB motors are notorious for oil starvation due to weak oil pump gears (this is why many companies make RB oil pumps and replacement internal gears) and lack of oil supply at high rpm's. This is why an oil pan baffle is needed because oil can't get to the pump due to acceleration, braking, turning, ect. My oil pressure numbers are about the same as yours, efficient for cruising and spirited driving but nowhere near what is needed to rev past recommended rpm's or continuos track lapping.

[DarkCaporaL]

Sure that is some safe oil pressure levels, but that's on a cold start, cruising and idle. RB motors are notorious for oil starvation due to weak oil pump gears (this is why many companies make RB oil pumps and replacement internal gears) and lack of oil supply at high rpm's. This is why an oil pan baffle is needed because oil can't get to the pump due to acceleration, braking, turning, ect. My oil pressure numbers are about the same as yours, efficient for cruising and spirited driving but nowhere near what is needed to rev past recommended rpm's or continuos track lapping.

Of course if you want to rev at 9-10k you'll need an aftermarket pump. I doubt even 5% of the people on here have engines capable (durable and sustained, not 2 weeks) of that kind of revs.

Most oil failures are due to people bouncing off the limiter which causes the bolts on the oil pump to loosen up, fall in the pan, and eventually fail. And the collar.

[bobbo]

I track/lap my car. Oil temps get a little bit high but pressure always stays good. I also add an extra liter of oil to the sump for insurance. There are several articles on here suggesting doing this.