problem started on thursday on the way home. it started to sound like a wrx, bogging real bad and a small loss in power. if i turn the car off, it will stop dong it for a while then it starts doing it again. so i checked my coil packs. they spark fine. bought a new battery even though i didnt think it had anything to do with it(found out it was bad anyway). i bought new spark plugs and gapped them to .08. put new oil in it and a oil filter. threw some seafoam in the gas tank and took it for a 20 min test drive last night and it was fine the whole time. drove it to work and most of whe way home today and it was fine til i got about 5 min. from home and it started doing it again. what could it be??? thanx in advance.
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rb20 sounds like a wrx!!!
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is there another way to check my coil pack? is there a way to check my ignitor and my cas before i but another one? when i tested my coils, i did the spark plug on ground and tried to start the car to see if it sparked and got spark on all 6.... i have no clue how to check my ignitor tho so didnt try it.Last edited by rb20noob; 08-23-2011, 02:19 AM.
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Did you test the resistance of your multimeter before testing your coils? Simply touch the two leads together and see what resistance you get, then subtract that value from the readings you get from the coils, that will be more accurate.1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!
The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.
-Bruce Lee
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I retested the coil packs now that they are completely cool and they are 0.8 now so I'm assuming they are fine. Checked the resistance one my injectors and they are all at 14 ohm's. I started the car and pulled one at a time to see if it was a bad injector but the car tried to die on everyone I did so I'm assuming they are good too...
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I've gone I've my fmic pipes over and over to make sure no leaks. I installed a boost gauge about 3 weeks ago. I hooked it up to a pressure regulator. The one that connect to the front of the intake mani. Could that cause the problem? Wouldn't that make it do it all the time instead of randomly. If this helps at all it never does it when I'm on the freeway. I seems to always start when I start breaking at light or not going above 35 and once it starts doin it, it doesn't stop. If I were to cut my car off and cut it right back on it still does it but if I let it cool down for maybe 5 to 10 min then it's fine...
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Did you also check all the vac lines as well? The fmic piping would give you a boost leak, which would make it feel sluggish and not a misfire. From the sounds of it you may have an electrical component failure, like a coilpack or ignitor. They tend to run fine when cool, but start to act up when they reach engine operating temperature. Is there a way to borrow someone else's coils and ignitor to see if that is the issue?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!
The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.
-Bruce Lee
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I checked the Resistance on all the injectors and they were all 14 ohm's. I started the car and pulled one at a time and the car sounded Crappy on every one I pulled. I checked the coil packs and the resistance on all of them are 0.8 which are fine so I'm now really confused on what it could be... i got a new ignitor on the way but should i do a compression test on it???
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if i turn the car off, it will stop dong it for a while then it starts doing it again
Ignitor pack- good cold, not so good hot = bad resistor pack
Same deal for the CAS, thus why i fingered out those two off the bat. Start with them.
Coilpacks tend to do it as well, but only when they're resting or cold resistance is unusually high to begin with, which in your case, they are not..Last edited by nelsonmxmarc; 08-25-2011, 10:47 PM.Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
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