R32 Build Dead-End

[MKIV]

I didn't see a single mention of an upgraded turbo O_O

400whp @ 16psi....stock RB20 turbo :|

Impossible is nothing :|

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[TheyKilledKenny]

Stop wasting everyones time posting retarded shat and start reading/learning

[BongRips]

Do you got some sand trapped in vagina or something?

[TheyKilledKenny]

On a side note the front plenum wont help you too much for the price, and you might as well go cheap and get nistune instead of the haltech. If you cant afford the basic performance upgrades than you cant afford those luxuries. Keep your coils until they give you problems. Stop asking for help.

[TheyKilledKenny]

This is my first flame post, but I feel you deserve it.

Replying to your facking questions is obviously useless. You ask the same questions over and over again. Jesus christ do you think we are fortune tellers who can predict the future? Who the hell knows how long your engine will last if you run big power on a cheap build, what the fack do you think will happen?

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/50469-~400whp-realistic.html

[BongRips]

So my plans for my build got screwed over by unexpected bills and now I won't be able to afford the rb25 engine and tranny swap for my build. I am shooting for ~350-400whp out of my rb20 engine and tranny. I know the tranny won't last long but that will be swapped out when it goes. My question is, what can I do to the engine to make it last a bit longer? I was thinking ARP head studs and a 1.3mm metal head gasket. Would that be enough to make my engine last at around that power @ ~16psi? Already on the car is 3" turbo back exhaust with divorced dump pipe, hks style intake, HDi boost controller, and fmic
I will be adding a front facing plenum, 80mm throttle body, greddy type rs style bov vented to atmosphere, haltech platinum pro ecu, the head studs and gasket, yellow jacket coils, 650cc DW injectors, DW 300lph pump, conceptua tuning hicas lock out kit, replacing my steering rack as its shot, and boost, oil temp, and aem wideband gauges and swapping to map sensor to get rid of the maf and be able to vta. Should that be enough to last decently for next year (transmission excluded)?