Wanting to do Holset HX40 turbo on my R33 - need to know what it invovles

[BrianV8]

I agree, RC injectors FTW

[r33_gtst]

Don't waste your $
RC injectors can be obtains for around $500

Email Angel from KOE and inquire with him
angel@koemotorsports.com
Tell him you got his info from Andrew at SOUSA

At least get a quote from him. He is also full of knowledge if you he any questions regarding your build

[bnsportsr33]

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Nissan-RB25DET-Set-6-New-720cc-direct-Fit-Side-Feeds-fuel-injectors-/130642374421?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6ae46f15#ht_1871wt_952

are these absolute **** or are they decent? anyone had any luck with these?

thanks

[BrianV8]

haha a few years back buddy and i were on EI and opened a home based business together, we later both found jobs but with the business license we had lots of suppliers giving us parts stupid cheap so we both racked up everything we could get and did two big builds haha. Now i don't have that luxury anymore so i just keep my eye on the forums and when something i need comes up cheap i scoop it. Only way you can have a good high dollar build without paying the big dollar prices. I've been doing that with my motor build, Taken over a year collecting parts and still not there but i've probably saved over 2 grand of what it would have cost me to buy everything retail

[bnsportsr33]

geezus where do you guys work/what do you do for a living? You guys seem to have unlimited amounts of money lol

I'm still going to go with the Godspeed manifolds, regardless if they aren't as good as a 1k one, I'll get it braced as BrianV8 said

[BrianV8]

ya for sure, My goals are 500-550whp so i'm really hoping i can just get away with a simple 1 pump setup with that 040.

[r33_gtst]

I have a Bosch fp and it made a big difference from when I had the walhbro. 24rwhp after a second tune.
Anything over 600hp requires dual pumps, in tank and in line, or dual with a surge tank.

[BrianV8]

Ya manifold thing honestly is one of those things where some people have luck some don't. As far as the fuel pump goes. Ya i had no idea i thought the walbro was a better pump. From what i've read the bosch 040 is a good upgrade for up to 600hp

[Zacho]

I agree with all except 2 things, First the chinese manifolds crack due to weight of a big turbo hanging off it while going through extreme heat cycles. The work around i did on my car is after mounting my manifold i ran a couple braces up to it from the engine block to help support the weight of the turbo. As a result i just went through my 3rd full season without an issue with it. Bit of leg work can save 1000 bucks on brand name manifold you don't necessarily need.

2nd I could be miss informed but the last time i checked the stock gtst fuel pump flows 130lph the gtr flows 190lph, so for most circumstances IMO the walbro 255 is all most people will ever need.

I'm going to choose to disagree with you on the turbo manifold. I know it works for some but if you have a street car you have a better chance of it still being OK. A street car simply is nowhere near as hard on a manifold as tracking it is. You also still have the boost creep issue, and that is just its nature by design. If you want to brace right and allow for thermal expansion/contraction of the runners I'd use a proper brace




As for the fuel pump you are right about the gts I never even considered it. But regardless of what factory is the 255 is not the greatest option anymore. gts I can understand. The stealth is $170 and outperforms the walbro by a mile. Check the flowcharts and you'll see what I mean.




The above says a walbro at 13.5V with 18 pounds of boost can only feed an absolute MAX ~600cc worth of injector.

[BrianV8]

I wanted to add my own opinion on a few things.

Don't, repeat: DONT cheap out on a turbo manifold. When the cheap one eventually (when, not if) cracks it will be a huge pain to take it off and get repaired. Those cheap turbo manifolds also have awful wastegate locations. The exhaust has to make a complete 180 degree turn to even go in the direction of the wastegate, completely opposing the direction of flow from the runners. You will experience boost creep.

Coil packs - I personally would look into new OEM's before buying the cheaper ones. The cheaper brands are hit or miss, some better than others. The OEMs in your car are likely 15-20 years old. New ones are the bomb. Believe it or not a new set can be had for around ~$430. If you run enough boost and power later down the road you can always add a kenne bell boost-a-spark.

Throttle body - Bigger is not always best. A bigger throttle body may be desired/required, but I found a much larger one to only decrease pedal resolution. What I mean by this is it takes less throttle to get more air into the engine and the response to pedal inputs dropped.

Turbo recommendation - I would look at precision 6262/6265 billet journal bearing turbos if you are on a budget. They will get your goal and leave lots of headroom.

ECU - If you are taking it to someone to tune it, find out what they do in fact tune and what they are familiar with. Those will probably be much better options.

Fuel pump - I'd look into the aeromotive stealth. It flows 340lph, and doesn't drop off anywhere near as significantly as the walbro does at increased line pressures. The walbro 255 doesn't flow much more than factory at high line pressures. Also, the aeromotive pump is a straight drop in for an excellent price.

I agree with all except 2 things, First the chinese manifolds crack due to weight of a big turbo hanging off it while going through extreme heat cycles. The work around i did on my car is after mounting my manifold i ran a couple braces up to it from the engine block to help support the weight of the turbo. As a result i just went through my 3rd full season without an issue with it. Bit of leg work can save 1000 bucks on brand name manifold you don't necessarily need.

2nd I could be miss informed but the last time i checked the stock gtst fuel pump flows 130lph the gtr flows 190lph, so for most circumstances IMO the walbro 255 is all most people will ever need.

[Zacho]

I wanted to add my own opinion on a few things.

Don't, repeat: DONT cheap out on a turbo manifold. When the cheap one eventually (when, not if) cracks it will be a huge pain to take it off and get repaired. Those cheap turbo manifolds also have awful wastegate locations. The exhaust has to make a complete 180 degree turn to even go in the direction of the wastegate, completely opposing the direction of flow from the runners. You will experience boost creep.

Coil packs - I personally would look into new OEM's before buying the cheaper ones. The cheaper brands are hit or miss, some better than others. The OEMs in your car are likely 15-20 years old. New ones are the bomb. Believe it or not a new set can be had for around ~$430. If you run enough boost and power later down the road you can always add a kenne bell boost-a-spark.

Throttle body - Bigger is not always best. A bigger throttle body may be desired/required, but I found a much larger one to only decrease pedal resolution. What I mean by this is it takes less throttle to get more air into the engine and the response to pedal inputs dropped.

Turbo recommendation - I would look at precision 6262/6265 billet journal bearing turbos if you are on a budget. They will get your goal and leave lots of headroom.

ECU - If you are taking it to someone to tune it, find out what they do in fact tune and what they are familiar with. Those will probably be much better options.

Fuel pump - I'd look into the aeromotive stealth. It flows 340lph, and doesn't drop off anywhere near as significantly as the walbro does at increased line pressures. The walbro 255 doesn't flow much more than factory at high line pressures. Also, the aeromotive pump is a straight drop in for an excellent price.

[BrianV8]

haha ya head work can get expensive, go from budget to 10k head in no time at all.

[RyanR33]

ill be going pro cams type b springs soild lifters im planing a whole TOMEI build pretty much. theres goin to be a lot of work in fort mac to make this happin haha

[BrianV8]

Well when i did my 25 swap i had full intensions of building it one day so i made sure every part that went on was big enough to take it. "Build it once" deal.

The swap and all the bolt ons turbo etc ran me 6 grand first go around. Covered all my bases.

This time building the motor, doing a full forged bottom end and poncams with type a springs in the head. Maybe a mild port job. Thats another 6-7 grand in parts and then machine work. So ya all said and done almost 10grand. Thats cost includes new clutch flywheel that sort of stuff you have to do over, upgrade injectors the other minor bolt ons that add up

I've been doing my car in phases because obviously doing that all at once you gotta have some huge reserves kicking around.

[RyanR33]

haha were u finding all these cheap parts!!! every were i look its almost over 10,000 in parts alone just for the motor!! complete top and bottom. then u have to add turbo, intake and exhaust manifolds, intercoolers, flue system ,ecu ect. i wanna go kinda all out the bigest thing for me thos is i want big cam lift 296 in = exh . lol i like the lump sound and sinces it in a tuner car all the old ppl with mussle cars will crap there pants haha