Bogging?

[krystalized_jdm]

Never really noticed an issue like this until this year.


Car seems to be really hesitant when I drive (throttle doesnt feel as touchy)

I took off on the highway and didn't realize someone was so close behind, so I boosted and held 2nd till about 6k rpms, around 6k it started bogging and sounded like it was misfiring or something of that nature.

Any suggestions? (I do need to do an oil change, but I doubt thats the issue)

[Nismo_line]

When's the last time you did a tune up? Change your plugs, clean your maf and such

[Skym]

If happened at 6000rpm+, that's usually sparkplug gap, sparkplug heat range or coilpack related.

[r33_gtst]

^+1
When we're the coils replaced?
Wrap them with 2-3 layers of electrical tape, helps keep the magnetism in and prevents the spark from blowing out the coil
New plugs for sure, they never hurt

[krystalized_jdm]

I just have oem sparkplug gap. Like we've discussed before skym, I do have the aftermarket pod filter which makes me run close to 10 psi. Maybe different gaping would be needed?

I have a spare set of coilpacks. I could change them out, but this doesn't happen EVERY time I boost above 6k rpm. So it's hard to track down.

[Skym]

Podfilter can raise boost level by 0.1bar x 14.5psi = 1.45psi.

Should regap to 0.8mm and be NGK PFR7A (colder heat range) if RB25DET and NGK PFR6A (colder heat range) if RB20DET when adding intake, exhaust due to leaner A/F ratio which raises cylinder temps hence colder tip on sparkplug is needed.

Heat range is usually changed every 75-100hp or when engine is running richer (hotter heatrange) or leaner (colder heatrange).

Stock for RB25DET is PFR6A-11 and stock for RB20DET is PFR5A-11. The -11 = 1.1.mm gap.

My car would do the same with 1.1mm gap and it damaged 2x coilpacks, 4th, 5th cylinder coilpacks from memory (must be due to firing order of engine, as to why it was those coilpacks that failed).