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  • looking for a iac

    hey sorry if this not the right area, but im looking for a idle air control valve for a r32 rb20det

    thankx alot
    2008 silverado 2500hd dmax 640whp 1200 wtq twin turbo at 60 psi
    1992 nissan skyline gts-4

    rb20
    t28
    nistune
    z32 maf
    aeromotive fuel pump
    13 psi dynomatics at 231.9whp on slipping clutch
    1997 toyota paseo
    1994chevy suburban
    2008 victory vegas low chopped

  • #2
    i guess called aac valve also
    Last edited by blackdeath; 01-02-2013, 12:50 AM.
    2008 silverado 2500hd dmax 640whp 1200 wtq twin turbo at 60 psi
    1992 nissan skyline gts-4

    rb20
    t28
    nistune
    z32 maf
    aeromotive fuel pump
    13 psi dynomatics at 231.9whp on slipping clutch
    1997 toyota paseo
    1994chevy suburban
    2008 victory vegas low chopped

    Comment


    • #3
      AACV is Auxiliary Air Control Valve and is located on back of intake plenum facing firewall (there's a vacuum hose going from throttlebody side of intake piping that goes over top of engine to AACV). It controls idle rpm when engine is warm and raises idle rpm to 1000rpm when aircon, light's, etc are on. That's why it has "Auxiliary" in the name.

      IACV is Idle Air Control Valve and is located on top of intake plenum runners on bottom half of intake plenum, just behind throttle body if facing front of car. IACV is T'd into to vacuum hose that goes to AACV. Also IACV uses heat from engine via intake plenum runners + voltage to close the valve inside as engine warms up. Once valve inside is closed IACV doesn't affect idle rpm. It's job is to add extra air on top of what AACV provides + ECU adding ignition timing to raise idle rpm and combat rich mixture (caused by via ECU) when engine is warming up. Running rich stops cylinders getting too hot when coolant is cold, as hot cylinders + cold coolant = cracked block, head.

      AACV and IACV work together when engine is warming up hence why they are thought of being the same part.
      RESPONSE MONSTER

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      • #4
        well in all other vehicle i work on its the iac lol , , so i guess for this vehicle its the aacv i need , its letting to much air past when warm and idles to high , its not the cold start valve cause blocking its air doesnt decrease rpm , i mean i know it could be something else causing the aacv to bypast more air but the tps is good and no vacuum leak
        2008 silverado 2500hd dmax 640whp 1200 wtq twin turbo at 60 psi
        1992 nissan skyline gts-4

        rb20
        t28
        nistune
        z32 maf
        aeromotive fuel pump
        13 psi dynomatics at 231.9whp on slipping clutch
        1997 toyota paseo
        1994chevy suburban
        2008 victory vegas low chopped

        Comment


        • #5
          Have u tried taking cleaning it? I know people do, I've never had any problems with mine,so never actually done it

          Comment


          • #6
            yea man first thing i did when bought the car few weeks ago was a full tune up , including cleaning
            of both valve granted i didnt know what the one by the tb was i still cleaned it , it ran ok but it still did werid idle things , now its just high , i have pintched the air intake line to the aacv so i can drive it and not sound like noob at the lights lol .
            2008 silverado 2500hd dmax 640whp 1200 wtq twin turbo at 60 psi
            1992 nissan skyline gts-4

            rb20
            t28
            nistune
            z32 maf
            aeromotive fuel pump
            13 psi dynomatics at 231.9whp on slipping clutch
            1997 toyota paseo
            1994chevy suburban
            2008 victory vegas low chopped

            Comment


            • #7
              Sticky (needs cleaning) or faulty IACV can cause high idle when engine is warm (a few people on here have had that problem).

              AACV has a idle adjustment screw on it and might have been adjusted high due to it being sluggish (dried oil deposits from blowby gas, as head dumps oil / blowby in before turbo under boost and goes through turbo, intercooler, etc).

              You'll probably need to pull ECU out and turn screw on side (diagnostic pot for checking for error codes via light next to it or dash flashing codes) fully to left mark / line (note the run position before turning screw and how many times you turn to left side, as some of those screws keep turning / are stuffed and not setting in run mode properly can cause cat light to flash on dash as goes betwen diagnostic, run mode when hits bump in road) to get ECU into idle adjustment mode. Then unplug AACV and turn AACV screw until at correct idle rpm (correct idle rpm should be mentioned on white coloured sticker that's located under front of hood on passenger side). Then plug AACV back in and see if idle is the same. If not, unplug AACV and adjust until it does match. Then return screw on side of ECU to run position. Also if adjust screw on side of ECU to right side it might adjust idle rpm up in small increments, so just be aware of that.

              It's better if have Nissan's Consult or Nistune tuning software, Consult cable, etc, as can accurately see idle rpm (from ECU) and set ECU in idle rpm adjustment mode.
              Last edited by Skym; 01-01-2013, 09:24 PM.
              RESPONSE MONSTER

              The most epic signature ever "epic".

              Comment

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