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AACV is Auxiliary Air Control Valve and is located on back of intake plenum facing firewall (there's a vacuum hose going from throttlebody side of intake piping that goes over top of engine to AACV). It controls idle rpm when engine is warm and raises idle rpm to 1000rpm when aircon, light's, etc are on. That's why it has "Auxiliary" in the name.
IACV is Idle Air Control Valve and is located on top of intake plenum runners on bottom half of intake plenum, just behind throttle body if facing front of car. IACV is T'd into to vacuum hose that goes to AACV. Also IACV uses heat from engine via intake plenum runners + voltage to close the valve inside as engine warms up. Once valve inside is closed IACV doesn't affect idle rpm. It's job is to add extra air on top of what AACV provides + ECU adding ignition timing to raise idle rpm and combat rich mixture (caused by via ECU) when engine is warming up. Running rich stops cylinders getting too hot when coolant is cold, as hot cylinders + cold coolant = cracked block, head.
AACV and IACV work together when engine is warming up hence why they are thought of being the same part.
well in all other vehicle i work on its the iac lol , , so i guess for this vehicle its the aacv i need , its letting to much air past when warm and idles to high , its not the cold start valve cause blocking its air doesnt decrease rpm , i mean i know it could be something else causing the aacv to bypast more air but the tps is good and no vacuum leak
yea man first thing i did when bought the car few weeks ago was a full tune up , including cleaning
of both valve granted i didnt know what the one by the tb was i still cleaned it , it ran ok but it still did werid idle things , now its just high , i have pintched the air intake line to the aacv so i can drive it and not sound like noob at the lights lol .
Sticky (needs cleaning) or faulty IACV can cause high idle when engine is warm (a few people on here have had that problem).
AACV has a idle adjustment screw on it and might have been adjusted high due to it being sluggish (dried oil deposits from blowby gas, as head dumps oil / blowby in before turbo under boost and goes through turbo, intercooler, etc).
You'll probably need to pull ECU out and turn screw on side (diagnostic pot for checking for error codes via light next to it or dash flashing codes) fully to left mark / line (note the run position before turning screw and how many times you turn to left side, as some of those screws keep turning / are stuffed and not setting in run mode properly can cause cat light to flash on dash as goes betwen diagnostic, run mode when hits bump in road) to get ECU into idle adjustment mode. Then unplug AACV and turn AACV screw until at correct idle rpm (correct idle rpm should be mentioned on white coloured sticker that's located under front of hood on passenger side). Then plug AACV back in and see if idle is the same. If not, unplug AACV and adjust until it does match. Then return screw on side of ECU to run position. Also if adjust screw on side of ECU to right side it might adjust idle rpm up in small increments, so just be aware of that.
It's better if have Nissan's Consult or Nistune tuning software, Consult cable, etc, as can accurately see idle rpm (from ECU) and set ECU in idle rpm adjustment mode.
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