I got a 91 r33 gtst and just replaced type 2 turbo with stock type 1 and everything went back together the same but when i started it the turbo got hot at idle and started to smoke wodering if i have to bleed it or anything or if there is a possiblity the oil linea are blocked any advice??
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Did you notice any oil or burn oil on the exhaust or compressor wheels? Other then that may have just been residual oil on the housings or a drip from your valve cover. Turbos run hot as hell normally, you are describing something foreign burning off the turbo surface, whether that substance originated from in or outside the turbo is the issue.
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You are meant to replace that exhaust manifold to turbo gasket everytime turbo is removed, refitted. Once it's crushed, that gasket has had it. Stock BOV gasket is the same.
Also the exhaust manifold to turbo gasket is known to blow, as sometimes the nuts there work loose due to lack of stock locking tabs to stop nuts turning, which result's in that gasket getting blown to pieces. If slightly loose, get whistling sound at higher rpm.RESPONSE MONSTER
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Without knowing what you did with install, hard to say what the cause is.
Did you remove CAS plug, crank engine until oil reaches turbo??? Or at least prelube turbo with oil before fitting turbo??? Lack of oil on startup is one of the quickest ways to damage bearings inside CHRA on turbo and doesn't last long afterwards.
Sometimes the turbo has coking (dried oil deposits) from hot shutdowns (without letting oil temps drop to safe level before turning engine off or car was thrashed without engine oil cooler) that's blocked the small diameter oilways in centre part of turbo (CHRA).
Off balance compressor wheel or exhaust wheel could be the other.
Did you check for blockages in oil feed to turbo???
It's best to fit a hybrid stock turbo (bolt on with new gaskets) -
Used turbo's usually need a rebuild.Last edited by Skym; 04-08-2013, 08:15 AM.RESPONSE MONSTER
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Im pretty sure it was lack of oil and i need to get it fixed asap what is best for everything stock on the car and what would i need to order to just bolt this bastard back together and get my car back all helps appreciated and no i never checked for oil run i dont no anything about these and where im to no one wanted to touch the car so i had to do it myself
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http://www.turbocare.co.nz/nissan-sk...acement-turbo/ what will i need for this to work and is this the best choice if i can get it? thanks
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http://www.turbocare.co.nz/nissan-sk...acement-turbo/ what will i need with this turbo will this one work?
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That RB25DET hybrid turbo can surge if you don't drive car correctly (I think it was due to exhaust A/R is too small which makes the bigger compressor wheel hit surge line that's shown on compressor map), but there's different types of hybrid turbo's (that hybrid RB25DET turbo doesn't seem to have the T4E compressor that causes that surge problem), so best to ask them. If it is a problem, could fit a machined to suit VG30DET stock turbo exhaust housing that has a bigger A/R.
Hybrid stock RB20 turbo is better (not for hp but avoiding surge) and gives 20hp gain at same boost level vs stock RB20 turbo. Good for around 350hp (engine) at 1 bar (stock turbo is around 320-330hp at 1bar, as intercooler heat soak kicks in, intake temps rise and have to pull ignition timing). That's on pump gas (50hp+ more with E85). Also make sure stock wastegate hole is ported on exhaust housing, as the smaller stock wastegate hole with bigger exhaust wheel can cause a boost spike at higher rpm.Last edited by Skym; 04-16-2013, 08:46 AM.RESPONSE MONSTER
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Ya ok but i dont need more horse or anything i just want to keep everything the same
And bolt on a new one with same boost and everything someone has to make a decent turbo i can just replace it with
Or a full kit with everything i need? Ps should i replace my oil lines if so who makes good ones for my car?
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