help with r32 rb25 swap

[ziggym28]

which one is the damper fpr? also, how do i know if i have the vvt wired correctly?
as for the coil packs, yes i know the difference between the 2 but i mean in order to run the s2 ones with the rb20 harness, how would i go about doing that

[ziggym28]

ok update: i dunno what happened today, but now when i lay on the throttle , between 3 and 4000 rpm, it hits a limiter, bounces, like the car completely stops pulling, any ideas??

[supersayianjim]

Series 2 RB25DET has the ignitors inside each coilpack (instead of ignitors inside ignition module that's located on top of back of engine), because you can shut the coilpacks off one at a time via ECU to check for faulty coilpack (have to have stock Series 2 R33 ECU, Nissan's Consult to do this). That's instead of removing coilpack cover, unplugging each coilpack one at a time to see if it affect's engine or not (not = faulty coilpack). Also if VVT is not working (running a retuned RB20DET ECU), that could explain the flat feeling as well.

You need the damper FPR oon single entry fuel rail, don't remove it. Only time you remove damper FPR is when running a dual entry fuel rail setup.

i actually have to disagree with you for a chamge skym. if you mean a single entry fuel system as in one feed and one return. you don't need the dampner. i have just been running a fpr on my fuel system and have not had any pressure problems for years.

also ive done this on my 1jz engine. from what i read the dampner restricts fuel flow. and high flow systems also don't run dampners.

[Skym]

which one is the damper fpr?

Damper FPR should be facing firewall. Return FPR (to fueltank) should be on the front of fuel rail.

also, how do i know if i have the vvt wired correctly?

This was worked out for RB25DET (not sure if it's accurate), but shows the VVT pinouts -

http://www.paulr33.com/diagrams/rb25det-pinout.pdf

as for the coil packs, yes i know the difference between the 2 but i mean in order to run the s2 ones with the rb20 harness, how would i go about doing that

Need both RB20DET, RB25DET ECU pinouts, wiring diagrams and that's usually found in back of manuals (accurate diagrams) -

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=24/SUBID=273/page=1/products.html

ok update: i dunno what happened today, but now when i lay on the throttle , between 3 and 4000 rpm, it hits a limiter, bounces, like the car completely stops pulling, any ideas??

Check that MAF is plugged in properly (engages rev limiter around 2500rpm if it isn't) and check that there's no intake airleak infront of MAF (can make ECU hit boost cut around 3000-4000rpm).

[ziggym28]

ok well im pretty sure the vvt is wired up properly now, i also hardwired in the series 2 coilpacks correctly, no cutting anymore but still the flatline in boost just before 4000rpm, i suppose ill look at that airleak in front of the maf?

[Skym]

It usually only happens with clamp on podfilter (using a podfilter with intake hose clamp that clamps onto MAF adaptor that bolts onto MAF).

[ziggym28]

yea i have the apexi filter that bolts up to the maf, anyways no leaks there, and now im back to the 3500-4000 rpm hard cut, but it goes really rich when it cuts... now i cant rev past 4000 rpm standing still, or driving

[ziggym28]

ok guys so ive changed the tps, did a boost leak test and fixed 6 leaks! but still no better? spark plugs were changed, coil packs wired up right, if i hit wot too fast, the car wont make jam but if i ease it or feather the pedal i can get it to pull up until 4000 rpm then i get no power anymore, is it possible ive maxed out the turbo? intake fmic, greddy style intake plenum, rb20 wastegate 10 psi, 3,5 inch downpipe full exhaust... it just feels like the turbo isnt doing anything... i see 10 psi on my gauge... but now power curve it just stops, im really running out of ideas here