If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Check for airleaks around MAF (before MAF if have a clamp onto adaptor type of podfilter and intake hose clamp that can make MAF make ECU hit boost cut / fuelcut. Then check for cracks in intake piping after MAF which usually causes a stutter, similar to missing coilpacks), MAF plug + wiring, MAF error code on ECU. When ECU doesn't see MAF it can engage a revlimiter (fuelcut) around 2500rpm.
i can rev it past 2500rpm and all the way up. its just if i put my foot down that happens.
i'll check all this tomorrow. i have the stock airbox there but i'll take a look. the car had been sitting for awhile. what was wierd was my wideband lost power for no apparent reason yesterday too and also my hicas light came on for the first time ever and then went off shortly after.
i swapped cats yesterday so i could attempt aircare and then on the drive there all the wierd **** started happening. theres a body ground on the cat which i had to relocate. would that 1 ground cause any problems for anything?
I love the thing and its worth it every time I start it. As soon as it stops make me smile ill get rid of it (not gonna happen)
HICAS light on dash can flash when there's low fluid in powersteering resouvoir or low power (alternator is on the way out or have a loose alternator belt which could explain why it doesn't do it under light throttle).
Cat overheat sensor when earthed turns off the cat overheat light on dash. If not earthed that cat overheat light stays on and if earths, then doesn't, cat overlight flashes (if tuck it behind metal heat shielding under car). Can't see that damaging anything.
Clogged fuel filter would make engine go lean, but not hit a revlimiter. Airleak around MAF (maxing out MAF), wiring into MAF, ECU plugs, bad solders inside square part of MAF inbetween plug, circuit board (or faulty MAF) would cause what is shown in videoclip.
Pulling MAF off and running a multimeter on MAF pins while blowing on MAF hot wire can tell you if it's working as it should (lightly tapping square part of MAF might make problem show up when installed in car). Sometimes the hotwire on MAF needs to be cleaned with CRC MAF cleaner (oil deposits from wet airfilter on hotwire that attracts dirt that hotwire can't burn off).
Like i said,. its not really hitting a rev limiter unless I put the petal to the floor then it bogs. i cant tell its going lean cause somehow at the same time, why wideband has lost power so i need to find where its getting its power from. ( simple cant remember, probably near the ecu 12v)
i'll come back with what i find.
I love the thing and its worth it every time I start it. As soon as it stops make me smile ill get rid of it (not gonna happen)
alright so new video. http://youtu.be/pgf5YqicWTI (your going to have to watch it in 720p to make the readout legible.)
its a datalog from my emanage ultimate.
i went and took a look at my afm. everything appears normal, sprayed the sensor. taped it a few time while running. made no difforence. in the video it seems to be reading air normall and as you can see i can rev through the range until put my foot down.
im going to check my coils and plugs next, swap my extra ignitor. i dont have a afm reading as i havent gone through my wiring for my WB. thats all next.
let me now what your oppinions are.
thanks!
I love the thing and its worth it every time I start it. As soon as it stops make me smile ill get rid of it (not gonna happen)
Sorry. When you press down on what and it leans to 21? If you mean you press on the gas and it leans to 21 that ain't normal. Not at all... check full pump. check fuel filter.
Comment