Timing issue causing car to be sluggish?

[krystalized_jdm]

As title says, this season my car has been extremely sluggish.

0-100 time is around the 10 second mark which seems extremely extremely long for an rb20.

Been tracking down multiple issues with this car, I read the ecu for error codes about two months ago and got a timing error code. Thinking nothing of it, I cleared it. (I'm not sure why?)

I read the ecu again today and got this


I got a running diagnostic of the car. (with ecu talk gauges) and it said about 33 btdc at 1400 rpm (which is around idle for my car, its always idled high not sure why)



To better explain the timing issue and why I think my car is sluggish. Basically, I can hit full boost and run all the way to redline with NO HESITATION OR MISFIRE. (I have had lots of misfire issues, this is not a misfire. It is smooth running, there is just NO power AT ALL) There was on night I was toying around with it, and once it hit the 5k in 3rd and it pulled extremely hard. Dumped to redline in no time comparable to how it runs today. I have been unable to get it to do that since that day.

My questions, does timing look correct? What should timing be at idle? Is the timing issue effecting my idle? Is this possible timing issue causing my car to be sluggish?

Edit - Sorry for the crappy and blurry iphone picture. The rpm is 1437 and timing is 33 btdc

[Skym]

Didn't see this info. CAS is probably on the way out (bearing failure). CAS code will show up again at some stage (it did on my car after I cleared it).

[krystalized_jdm]

Don't hear any bearing whining or grinding or nothing like that.

Would a CAS bearing cause my car to be this slow? This is crazy

[Skym]

Would need to put mechanics stethoscope on CAS to hear the bearing sound.

Faulty CAS can pull ignition timing a few degrees which makes engine feel flatter than normal. But I think it's a few things (fuel pump, ECU pulling ignition timing, not enough ignition timing, fuel for mods, CAS, etc) not just one problem (to get it back to where it should be).

With FMIC engine should feel flat, that's normal until ECU tune, fueling is sorted. Does the same thing with small turbo upgrade, stock SMIC. Also check for intake airleaks around FMIC itself, as could be that simple.

[krystalized_jdm]

Thanks skym for your words of wisdom. I will check on this. Does 33 btdc seem normal at my revs? ALS I noticed that at idle when I punch it and rev to 3-4 grand ignition timing goes downto 20idh and then immediately goes back up to 40ish or whatever I forget exact number


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[Skym]

You're welcome. What you are seeing is the base ignition timing (15 degrees BTDC from CAS or basically before piston reaches top of cylinder) + the ignition timing on one of the cells on ignition map (say 20 degrees as an example) that ECU adds to base ignition timing figure (Total = 35 degrees) and is when piston is on the down stroke, sparkplug is fired. Ignition timing is rotation of crank in degrees.

The drop in ignition timing is the ECU pulling ignition timing when knock happens. Normal with FMIC or small turbo mods without ECU tune to suit (means engine might be running too lean and ECU pulls ignition timing, runs engine slightly richer to stop engine knocking).

[krystalized_jdm]

What do you recommend doing to get my idle to go down to 650ish so I can see that the base timing is correct? or can I check it with the idle it has now w/ a timing light? Even if this doesn't completely solve my issue, atleast I know that it will be timed correctly and once cash flow is back I can start tackling other issues. Looks like I will have to take the 600 km trip to calgary to get nistune installed in my car. (As I have no idea how to tune it myself if I ordered it)

I have no idea how to check timing, but there isn't a single shop in my small city I trust working on my car. I've heard horror stories of friends taking skylines to shops and having very bad results.

[Skym]

The AACV and ECU have to be both at 650rpm. ECU needs to be put into idle rpm adjustment mode (screw turned to all the way to the left side on side of ECU, as can see you can only turn it that way with printed lines on sticker that's around the hole where screw is located) and AACV plug unplugged so ECU doesn't interfere with idle rpm. Then adjust AACV screw with screw driver until it's at 650rpm (can see it accurately on Consult screen). Plug AACV back in and see if revs stay at the same rpm (if not, unplug AACV plug and keep adjusting AACV until it does). If does stay at same rpm (around 650rpm), then screw on side of ECU is returned to run mode via turning screw back to the right, back to where it was. You have to note the amount of turns while turning screw on side of ECU, so can be returned to run mode (hardest part of doing it this way).

Other way is via Nissan's Consult and some software Consult programs have a AACV idle adjustment feature that allows you to put ECU into idle adjustment mode.

[krystalized_jdm]

I didn't know you had to put ecu into idle adjustment mode. I tried playing with the AACV alone and didn't get any luck.

I will try that!! Thank you skym!

Hopefully I come back wiith good results.

[krystalized_jdm]

I adjusted Iacv with it unplugged and hot the engine to run at 650 rpm but it was extremely jumpy. Every time it hit 650 rpm it was at 15 btdc so looks like timing is ok but ill investigate more. After having te engine run at 600-700 rpm (jumpy) I plugged Iacv and it jumped to 1400. So I'm assuming I need to clean Iacv? I didn't touch the ecu thing as it moved just from the Iacv and tere is a protective sticker over the knob on ecu


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[yanay]

P.S conduit is a virus that piggbacks google chrome! Get rid of that ****!

[krystalized_jdm]

It's on a netbook I only use for my skyline. I don't care, thanks for suggestion

[Skym]

I adjusted Iacv with it unplugged and hot the engine to run at 650 rpm but it was extremely jumpy. Every time it hit 650 rpm it was at 15 btdc so looks like timing is ok but ill investigate more. After having te engine run at 600-700 rpm (jumpy) I plugged Iacv and it jumped to 1400. So I'm assuming I need to clean Iacv? I didn't touch the ecu thing as it moved just from the Iacv and tere is a protective sticker over the knob on ecu

IACV does cause a high idle if valve inside is stuck due to deposits or failed. But disconnecting IACV vacuum feed from T section off the hose that goes to AACV and blocking that part of the T, hose to IACV should eliminate the IACV as a cause. If still does it after that, then it could be ECU itself or MAF. But when MAF fails it can make engine idle around 1400rpm when cold, hot, but would get MAF error code on ECU.

If not those it could be ECU itself since you mentioned someone put a sticker over screw (sometimes the screw becomes loose and putting a piece of tape there to stop screw turning makes sense), as you do get a faulty ECU sometimes. Swapping ECU out with ECU from another car would confirm.

[krystalized_jdm]

It doesn't look like a piece of tape, it has japanese writing on it and its more of a thicker piece. It looks like it is oem if I were to guess. The tape does NOT touch the screw. (this is why I think it's oem)

I plugged a rb20 mines ecu into my car a few weeks ago and the idle waas still 1400 so I doubt ecu is an issue.

I will try your IACV test and see what I get.

[krystalized_jdm]

Alright, I took carb cleaner and sprayed the IACV. The one on the right side of the intake plenum when you face it on the drivers side. (closest to firewall)

I didn't take it apart, I just took it off and sprayed the open area. (Didn't know if taking it apart was a good idea)

Also sprayed the crap out of my MAF with electrical contact cleaner (the sensor piece and the harness contacts)

Both didn't do anything.

I did what skym told me, I disconnected the T from the IACV and the engine wouldn't start.

I also tried adjusting the IACV screw again with no luck.

Suggestions?