DIY day time running light

[nic-sky]

HELLO,

I am having issues with passing inspection in Victoria ,bc.

I recently purchased a r33 from Alberta. I need help on installing my DRL in my r33....

Any info would be helpful

[supreme]

I've done it. Its very easy, you just have to run wires from the light switch on the dash and wire it to a fuse (right side there is a fuse box) that is on with ignition.This makes the running lights (not the main headlights or highbeams) on only when the key is in position number 3 IGN. I forget the exact fuse by memory, also its tricky to explain without pics so I'll post it up when I get home, but this is how I passed inspection. There might be a DIY thread here too.

EDIT: this is the turorial I followed but I did it a bit differently, I will post some pics of my fuse box and my light switch (if i have a pic)

[99_SI]

Don't hack your wiring or mess with stock fuses. Increased current draw will melt something eventually. Napa sells a drl module that can be wired up in less than 30 min. Not sure of the price, but guessing no more than $100.
Word of advice, don't use butt connectors or electric taps. Sawter and shrink tube to last forever.


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[Dragon Humper]

There are some LED el cheapo light bars from Canadian Tire that can be installed in 15 min. Just run the wires to the ign on portion of the fuse block under the steering wheel and stick the bars to the front of the car somewhere half assed attractively and go through the inspection. Remove afterward. I have used the same light bars on 3 vehicles now.



Jon.

[supreme]

Don't hack your wiring or mess with stock fuses. Increased current draw will melt something eventually. Napa sells a drl module that can be wired up in less than 30 min. Not sure of the price, but guessing no more than $100.
Word of advice, don't use butt connectors or electric taps. Sawter and shrink tube to last forever.


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Well mine are not hacked, they are soldered and wrapped in heat shrink and I have a double fuse in place of the original. My dad, who is very handy with electricity, and I managed to do this in less than 1/2 an hour. The hardest part was finding the right fuse but with a voltmeter it's still very easy. It was time consuming to remove and re-install the dash/cluster surround but we needed it opened to install a clutch safety switch for inspection as well. So far no problems and both jobs together only cost about 15-20$

[99_SI]

Nice.


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[supreme]

This is the tutorial I sent nic-sky in case anyone was wondering

1) take off the glossy black cluster surround with all the headlight switches and whatnot
2) disconnect all of the wiring from the back of this surround piece and place it aside
3) above the headlight knob is another type of light button
This one

On the back should be 4 prongs ( dont have a pic sorry)
4) Take a multi meter and put it on resistance mode. With the button OFF, put the probes on 2 of the switch pins (1probe per pin). The multndimeter should read overload (OL on mine), now push the button. If the multimeter is still on overload repeat it but put one of the probes on a different pin. If it gave a proper number then you have found the two pins that need to be jumped.
5) Now on the PLUG for that switch, CAREFULLY push out the two pins that you just found
6) connect the two together, and run the connecting wire neatly behind the dash to the fuse box.
7) here you have two options a) simply make the end of your wire like a prong by soldering it and flattening it with pliers
b) go to an electronics store, or a car parts store and buy an automotive fuse splitter
8) Using whatever method you chose above, attach the wire to the fuse shown by a) shoving it in with the fuse
b) soldering the wire to the splitter and inserting it into the shown fuse slot

[dah_hunter]

your DIY is useful for R32's however the OP has a R33.. its not as simple..

I would go with the LED option that was mentioned.. that would be the cheapest/quickest way.

[Dragon Humper]

And......

If you use the power source i used (i believe its the one in the pic) you can turn on the ignition with the headlights. All you gotta do is break in, turn on the lights, bump start the car and, congratulations you now own an R32 with no keys.. I could only find one source under there that turned on with the ignition, so that should be it. You could use a relay to isolate that but its too much crapola when a simple alternative is available.



Jon.

[supreme]

your DIY is useful for R32's however the OP has a R33.. its not as simple..

I would go with the LED option that was mentioned.. that would be the cheapest/quickest way.

OOPS, didn't even occur to me that he had an r33, I just assumed r32 for some reason... my bad, sorry.

And......

If you use the power source i used (i believe its the one in the pic) you can turn on the ignition with the headlights. All you gotta do is break in, turn on the lights, bump start the car and, congratulations you now own an R32 with no keys.. I could only find one source under there that turned on with the ignition, so that should be it. You could use a relay to isolate that but its too much crapola when a simple alternative is available.



Jon.

Ouf, a problem like that didn't cross my mind How would I test this? My running lights cannot be turned on with the button anymore, just when the key is turned to IGN. Also I do have a clutch safety switch soldered into the Ignition circuit (not the fuse box but the actual circuit) would that change anything?

[Dragon Humper]

Ah...then you should be ok. If the lights cannot be turned on with the headlight switch then you have removed the power source that can make that happen. Just turn on the headlight swt, if the dash doesn't light up with all the idiot lights and gauges moving then you are fine.

[supreme]

Ok thats what I thought. I didnt use the headlight switch but rather the fog light button above it and the power and ground (?) pins were just attached and then given power from the fuse box. No playing with the ignition circuit for the lights.

[nic-sky]

thanks for all the input,

i did buy a drl module from lordco. hookit all up the the lights etc. now my problem is getting a power source that is 12v. the 12v power source has to put out power when the key is in the ON position, right now i have it to the rear wipers as a temp thing, but the lights flicker twice then stay on, is there a better power source that would work betteR??