Breaking in period for parts

[Kurn_K]

Ok so at the end of the month i'm just doing a minor refresher on one of my RB20DET's. The pistons rings have gone so ordering a new OEM set. Since i'm doing that, ordering a set of ACL con rod & main bearings as well as a full OEM gasket kit (all gaskets and a ton of seals). My question is what would you recommend as the average time to break in the rings and bearings? 500miles more or less?

[Dragon Humper]

20 minutes then drive it. Wait maybe 50 km or so to honk on it. Rings need to be seated quickly, the onky way to do that is to have some fun. Change oil (use diesel) after 100km and forget about it.



Jon.

[Skym]

Dyno's have a run in program for initial run in (run in oil).

Then run in tune to 5000rpm for 2000km, change oil (run in oil) + filter and retune to rev limiter. Run in to 5000km and change oil to normal oil, oil filter, check tune on dyno. Done.

Some from experience have found out that the longer you run it in, the more hp the engine produces on dyno when you retune.

Usually it's engine dyno, chassis dyno, road or track tune. Many raceteams, Nismo, etc do it that way.

[Kurn_K]

No dyno (atleast it hasn't been setup yet). So the rings need to be seated quick so some spirited driving is advised ok. What about the bearing? Being ACL race bearings, no break in needed per say? Or use the diesel and after the 100km change back to my regular oil and consider that broken in? I just dont want to F up anything and have to do the process over.

[Dragon Humper]

Let me put it this way, a propperly built engine requires no break in....save for seating the rings. There is much debate to what kind of oil to use in these engines....I am firmly in the non-synthetic dino diesel oil camp. Dyno break-in is swell if you have it but most dont AND I dont feel that dynos load engines enough for a propper ring seating break in.

There are a thousand points of view on engine break-in but I have found the "be gentle for an hour or so then drive it like you normally would" works every time. That includes regular trips to redline in a gear near 4th to really seat the rings.


Jon.

[Kurn_K]

Yes, many varying opinions on "breaking in" parts. I know for sure a clutch yes, but rings and bearings should be good to go roughly off the bat. Thanks for you assistance. Oh and i too am i user of the old school dyno oil lol

[Skym]

I dont feel that dynos load engines enough for a propper ring seating break in.

I can understand what you mean. Hub dyno can put alot of load on engine. Roller not so much due to wheel spin.

Engine dyno break in is somewhere around 2-3 hours for supercar engines after assembly.

[aaron86]

Use break in oil with zinc and phosphorus. These help prevent wear. API rated oils don't have these because of emissions and they wear out catalysts faster. So get an off road racing oil. Prime the oil system before starting.
Vary the load and rpm.
Do an oil change after 50 - 100km with more break in oil.

[supersayianjim]

^^ this is what I was thinking also. when I build my rb25 iam going to use break in oil initially..

[Dragon Humper]

Use break in oil with zinc and phosphorus. These help prevent wear. API rated oils don't have these because of emissions and they wear out catalysts faster. So get an off road racing oil. Prime the oil system before starting.
Vary the load and rpm.
Do an oil change after 50 - 100km with more break in oil.

*HINT*

It's called Diesel oil....

If you don't have to worry too much about passing California style emission standards, it's the only way to go with these engines. Waste buckets of money on specialty oils all you want but a diesel formulation has everything you need for both break-in and a lifetime of hard running turbo goodness.

A job I worked at had a machine needing Gen-sets running Cummins V16s (6 of them) with twin highmount turbos in the lifter valley. One engine had two dead injectors on one bank and a single dead on the other bank. We couldn't operate without it, so it ran for 3 weeks straight with a lean bank and a really lean bank. One turbo was glowing so much that the room looked like a red light district in Amsterdam. The other wasn't far off. All the time run on lowly Shell Rotella T NON-synthetic. After the injectors were fixed that engine ran, unchanged from that 3 weeks of pure hell, for 6 more years.....24hrs a day. The only thing that brought it down was a newbee dumb-ass that screwed up the intake filters, the motor got dusted and the rings were destroyed.

A slightly tarted up turbo gas motor is no match for a hard working diesel formula....I run it exclusively.




Jon.

[nimblestix]

Rotella t is what I used for break in process and all my racing needs.


sent from a galaxy far, far away

[gtrjon]

Rotella t is what I used for break in process and all my racing needs.


sent from a galaxy far, far away

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