RB25 No start Issues

[ZzZleeper]

Alright, i've about had it with this mess lol. It has been a wild goose chase for the past few months now with no prevail!

So i have an S1 RB25 swapped into my Z32. It has a brand new Wiring Specialties standalone harness, Apexi PFC, brand new Yellow Jacket coils, and new plugs, freddy manifold with topfeeds. So i have everything wired up, grounded correctly and im getting no start. Not even a sputter. Brand new fuel pump, i get 40lbs in the rail, with the FPR mounted after the rail in the return. I pull the CAS out and spin with ignition on and i get pulsing that i can hear. checked all of the injectors with NOID lights, and im getting 12v to every one. Pulled the plugs and im getting spark on all 6. It seems im not any fuel in the cylinders. But, when i sprayed some starter fluid in threw the TB and then tried cranking i just got it to backfire out of the intake manifold. When im cranking it, i'll alternate WOT and then no gas, and there is no change in the sound of it cranking so i can tell is not getting anything. Ive thought maybe the timing is really off, but even then you'd think it'd atleast sputter somewhat, and im having a hard time believing the timing is off, but i still need to check. I just ordered some new Injectors hoping maybe thats what it is but with the way its been going, it probably isnt haha. Could a bad TPS cause this to happen? Thats the last thing i could possibly think of. I dont have the IAVC hooked up, but i've been told you can run without that. This is a track car so im not worried about smooth idle, i just want the damn thing to run lol.

So, do any of you guys have some input on this? Or anything else you think i should look into? Im running out of ideas. So any info you can provide will be helpful!

[99_SI]

Read this about 3 times, missing info...so is this a de or det ?


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[99_SI]

RB25 No start Issues

I think something with your wiring to the injectors.You have no fuel going into cylinders but you hear injectors clicking?


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[ZzZleeper]

I think something with your wiring to the injectors.You have no fuel going into cylinders but you hear injectors clicking?


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Sorry, its a RB25DET. All the wiring to the injectors is brand new, and with key on, im getting 12v to each injector. So i took the CAS out and spun the dial, and i can hear them clicking so they are getting power to them, and the CAS is good. Its just not getting fuel threw them. Im just wondering if there would be something else that would cause this to happen other than clogged bad injectors.

[99_SI]

The wires are reversed


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[99_SI]

Or you have different impedance injectors....what does power FC say about injector duty cycle and tps voltage?


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[99_SI]

Hey man why did u split...it was just getin interesting?


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[99_SI]

Read your first post again....check the timing first


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[ZzZleeper]

Or you have different impedance injectors....what does power FC say about injector duty cycle and tps voltage?


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Alright so i ended up buying new Bosch 660cc High Impedance injectors. With the ignition on, the TPS reads .5 and increases if i push on the throttle, so it seems the TPS is in working order. The Injector duty cycle is at .2 with ignition on, and then when its cranking it gets up to about 2.5 or so. With the new injectors its still not getting any fuel, what so ever. I did notice it only has about 20psi of fuel pressure now, so that might have a little to do with it. But it still isnt even coming close to even sputtering. I know i need to check the timing on it, but even if the timing was wayy off it would still be getting fuel. Im not really sure whats going on with it. So as of now, i plan on doing a fuel cell new lines and a inline pump to get the pressure back up. Then maybe i'll try replacing the CAS. I meant, i pull it out and spin the cas and i can hear the injectors pulse, but sometimes it doesnt sound like all of them are pulsing when i spin it, other times its sounds perfect just like my VG30 does.

[amnash]

Ya fix your fuel pressure then see what it's doing. Your gonna have to fix it anyways. I didn't read the rest of this thread but if your not doing a big build just replace the pump.. don't need to change the entire fuel setup just to get pressure back. Would be a waste of money.

[Skym]

Could be fuel pressure.

Factory (for RB20, RB26 and RB25DET shouldn't be any different) should be around 35.5psi at idle with vacuum hose to FPR connected and 7.1psi higher with no vacuum to FPR (before starting engine and when engine is under boost).

Also check PowerFC settings (check the manual). There are features you turn off and are mentioned in the manual.

[xRacerx972]

I just did my rb25 swap. I would say do the obvious things first. Verify mechanical timing - cams/crank marks. Then, verify you have the proper injector corrections in your PFC - you must rescale for larger/different injectors. After youve verified this, keep in mind you will have to prime the fuel rail quite a bit before fuel is steadily flowing into the system.. My car took half an hour of messing around before the fuel built up pressure in the system. Finally try pulling the CAS, spinning it one tooth over and restarting the engine. Thats also what I had to do - pull the CAS, spin a little, remount, try again. Over and over til the CAS was aligned properly, but once it was, it fired right up. Keep in mind, with the CAS misaligned, youll flood the engine and get fuel in your oil if you keep trying to start the car with it incorrectly aligned.

[ZzZleeper]

Alright, so i have installed all new 6AN fuel lines, 12 Gallon fuel cell, and 340 inline pump. I am now getting fuel pressure! But still no start. I checked the timing, i found the TDC of cylinder number one, closest to the front of the vehicle correct? and it lined up on the crank pull, and also the the Intake and Exhaust cams were dead on. So now when i crank it, it seems like its firing on itself, it just makes the phufff sound in the intake manifold but wont start. After i tried cranking it, i left the ignition on, pulled then CAS and spun it, and it actually ignitied the left over gas in the cylinder. I then thought i might have hooked the injector wires up wrong, so i hooked up some noid lights, and recorded as i spun the CAS. I believe the firing order is 153624 correct? It seems like thats what its firing in the video below.




I am not sure where to look now. Unless the cam gears were installed wrong and the timing is actually 180 degrees off? It looks like the cam gears that are installed are actually adjustable. See picture below.
So is there any way of figuring out the base on the cams? it seems like the intake side has some adjustment in it already. Any help here will be much appreciated. Im close to giving up on this thing!

[ZzZleeper]

Well to follow up.. I just looked at all the ground wires to the ECU from the injectors to match up the colors. Keep in mind i have a wiring specialties harness, so the colors might not be the same as stock.
So here is the color of the wires, and the corresponding ECU pins, and color of the wires at the pin

Cylinder 1, White/Pink - Pin 101, White/Pink
Cylinder 2, White/Red - Pin 105, White/Red
Cylinder 3, White/Green - Pin 103 White/Green
Cylinder 4, Solid White - Pin 114 White/Blue
Cylinder 5, Yellow - Pin 110 Yellow
Cylinder 6, White/Black - Pin 112 White/Black


So, obviously something is up with Cylinder number 4. At Pin 114 the wire is white/blue, but the injector wire is solid white. It looks like the white wire goes into pin 109, which is +12 V switched through ECCS Relay. Could these wires possibly be switched? If they were switched would that cause the car to not start? Also, if the wires were switched how would it be possible for me to still be getting a signal on injector 4 with the NOID light when i spin the CAS?

Any pointers will help a ton with this!

[Skym]

Check cam timing.

Engine not starting is usually timing related (CAS set incorrectly or not connected), exhaust camtiming is out (causes CAS timing to be out). That's where I would look. Just a couple degrees is enough to make a engine harder to start, especially with the mods your engine has.

How to degree your cams -

http://www.camshaftshop.com/the-sole-purpose-of-degreeing-your-cam.php

In some rare cases it's wiring related (conversions).

Stock cam specs are here (intake, exhaust cam timing) -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html