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  • Clutch master/Bleeding

    Hey what's up guys,
    I'm having some issues bleeding my clutch...long story I bought a Plazmaman intake plenium for my rb25 neo in my r32. It seemed like the right buy since you can use the oem IACV and the sleek look and apparently the hp/torque gains. I wasn't sure on modifying the greddy/freddy manifold so I went and bought it.
    Upon buying it, I found out that it was designed for an rb25 in an r34 chassis...great. It was hitting on the end of the clutch master cylinder and was overhanging it by an inch or so. I was trying to come up with ideas of getting around this. I tried using a spacer that would sit over the end of the clutch master but then it would hit on the hood. I seen in another project thread that someone used an EK clutch master cylinder on his rb30 setup. It was about an inch shorter than the oem gtst one, which gave me clearance for the plenium to bolt up.
    After trying to make it work I managed to fit it up...I mounted it on the firewall, modified the clutch bracket, made a new hardline and relocated the reservoir. It had the same bore as the stock r32 gtst one, (5/8") The only issue I saw was there not being a bleeder screw on the reservoir but figured I would still be ok since there was a bleeder screw on the junction box and slave cylinder.
    So I have been trying to bleed it now for an hour or so with a buddy, I pump the pedal up about 10 or so times, hold the clutch pedal down and crack the screws, tighten screw up then repeat. I started by only cracking the screw on the junction box, after getting a little improvement I started doing both screws. Ive built a little pressure but only 1" from the bottom, I can see the slave cylinder moving a 1/4" of an inch. Ive looked for any leaks from fittings and no leaks and been topping up the fluid.
    Is there a special order for bleeding the system or am I having issues because I don't have the third bleeder screw on the clutch master? I've also been thinking is it possible that the piston isn't cover up the valve relief hole and not build any pressure?
    My last resort would be buying a greddy manifold and trying to ditch manifold but I really don't wanna do that...
    Does anyone have any ideas of what I can do?
    Thanks

  • #2
    Yea get buddy to pump while you crack the line at the master-this is called bench bleeding the master, and hence should have been done prior to fitting on vehicle. Repeat bleed as required. Bleed rest of system as you did before.


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    • #3
      Thanks for the quick reply, this should work by just cracking the line with out a bleeder screw? Would a vacuum gauge/brake bleeder kit do the trick as well?

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      • #4
        Vacuum pump would work on bleeders , not the line at the master. Just pump, hold and crack the line untill see pressurized fluid squirt. Obviously containment of the squirting fluid is implied. Give that a shot if afte the whole procedure don't work the m/c might not be pushing enough pressure or it's faulty or the pedal rod doesn't reach far enough in the m/c.


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