RB20 randomly cutting out

[Jezu21]

So here's the issue. I start my car let it idle for a minute or two then start to drive. I make it about 20 feet and the engine dies. I coast to a stop, restart it, and drive about 2 feet and the engine dies again. It doesn't stutter first, it just simply dies. I give it gas but it's dead, revs slowly drop until it stalls once it stops rolling.

Now I thought it was maybe because i was low on gas. So I make it to the gs station and all is well for the rest of the day.

Then it starts happening again. This time more random. I was cruising at 80 in 5th and lost power for a second then it kicked back in. I stop at a stop light and the car is idling at 1500rpm. I start to go and make it to about 40 then she quits and i roll to a stop. Fire it up and pull into a parking lot with the car bucking and almost stalling.

I checked my ecu and get a code 12 which is MAF sensor curcuit. So I go over all the wiring and connections and it seems ok. I gave the connector a quick cleaning and it was fine for the day.

But it started doing it again so i'm thinking maybe my MAF is taking a ****.

Can anyone give any insights? Any other possibilities? Or is it my MAF on it's way out?

Also should note, it doesn't seem to matter whether the car is cold or warmed up. If it feels like being a ****, it will do it.

Thanks for any help. The car is my daily so I gotta sort it out. Not fun barely making it to work lol

[99_SI]

Sounds like your maf IS taking a dump. Disconnect it and try driving around without it....you'll get a check engine light ....but you'll at least rule out maf. Easiest place to start with info you provided.



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[Skym]

Stock ECU can run without MAF, but it's only for checking if MAF is the cause. I wouldn't drive around with it like that.

Check wires into MAF plug and into ECU plug, as sometimes they can be pulled out causing malfunctions or wiring to and from has a break somewhere.

When a MAF fails it usually makes engine idle at 1500rpm when engine is warm or cold and get MAF error code on ECU (what happened when MAF failed on my car). Replaced MAF, problem solved.

The MAF sensor itself could be dirty and needs a clean. Or it could be the common bad solder problem on circuit board to MAF plug. You'll need to remove the silicon sealant and remove the lid on MAF, resolder circuit board to MAF plug part and reseal the lid on MAF afterwards with high temp silicon sealant. Sometimes the MAF has had it and soldering doesn't work.

[99_SI]

Soldering didn't work on my car....bought a new one straight from nissan japan. Thought about it later....shoulda went Z32 maf


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[Jezu21]

I'll give the unplugging the maf a try once it acts up and see if it still does it.

And skym most of the time my car idles at 800 but when it starts acting up and stalling out I do notice it's idling pretty high(until it of course, quits again).

I recently cleaned it with electric contact cleaner. I may open it up and check the solder connections.

Thanks for the insight guys.

[Skym]

You'll need to remove the MAF error code afterwards via Consult (Nissan's diagnotic computer) or Consult software (Nistune, etc), laptop, cable. Also don't unplug, plug-in the MAF while engine is running. Turn engine off and unplug or plug-in MAF, start engine.

There's CRC MAF cleaner to clean MAF's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bXuu5ZThok

Sometimes the sensor itself has oil buildup that the MAF self cleaning (I think heats up the hotwire when turning engine off to burn off dirt deposits) doesn't fix hence why the MAF cleaner is needed.

Dash, engine ECU, HICAS ECU, MAF usually have the bad solder problem.