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  • Knock in rear

    So just recently noticed a knock when I'm at slow speeds and drive over cracks in pavement. Sounds like a shock mount to me..... But is there a actual mount in the back or is it part of the coil overs like a bushing? Been looking around on line and found a tone of diff/subframe bushings but can't seem to find a shock mount.
    Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

  • #2
    Knock in rear

    You have just lowering springs in there right terry? I would stArt by checking rear lower ball joints and hicas ball joints and tie rods....replaced all 2 hicas ball joints and 2 tie rods wen I got the thing ....rack is allowed a kunt hair of play. Then If nothing turns up chek how tight are lower shock bolts, and only then you can have fun pulling rear seat out to check if mount bolts are tight as well as center strut bolt. Hope this points you in right direction...I got my money on hicas ball joint/tie rods comin down for sky meet lol ?


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    Last edited by 99_SI; 07-09-2014, 11:51 PM.

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    • #3
      Ya....I'll be there in 10mins lol. Wish I was closer. Maybe next year because I want to try and get a dyno day/tune after some mods over the winter.

      Thanks for the input. I'm gonna go jack her up and check it out. It has npg coilovers....stiffer than a dead body. Lol
      Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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      • #4
        I've got the same set in my car and LOVE them. I'm suprised you fine yours stiff. They must have made spring rate and/or valving changes for the 33.

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        • #5
          Had a look under the car, tried loading up the tire and lower control arm separately to try and find the issue..... And nothing. All felt nice and tight. When I get some more time I'm gonna try again. Don't want to destroy anything or loose a ball joint while driving
          Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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          • #6
            If have solid top hats, tend to get more NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).
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            • #7
              Originally posted by Skym View Post
              If have solid top hats, tend to get more NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).
              The top of the coilovers you mean? They were installed when I purchased the car, but the noise has been a recent thing.
              Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by future_R34 View Post
                The top of the coilovers you mean? They were installed when I purchased the car, but the noise has been a recent thing.
                Yes, top of the coilovers that look like hats. It could be the clunking from the backlash in the diffhead which is common at lower speeds (might need adjusting) or play in half shaft's on wheel side (common place where they fail) or main propshaft hanger bearing or joint. Sometimes it can be rear gearbox mount rubber has come away from the metal (gearstick moves around more than usual). Those are the common area's that cause the clunk noise.
                RESPONSE MONSTER

                The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                • #9
                  Think I found it, it's coming from the HICAS rack. You can grab the rear tires and try to turn them in and out....no movement or slop, but if you make a fist and hit the tire....."clunk"! It's the same on both rear tires. Is there any servicing or greasing to do in that steering rack?
                  Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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                  • #10
                    Knock in rear

                    Not that I know of...when I checked
                    It here was pretty tight


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                    • #11
                      On R32 you lube the outer balljoint via nipple on the diff side of the outer balljoint. But if have alot of play, have to replace the arm with balljoint on rack side and inner outer as I think Nissan list it as (I might be thinking of front steering rack) on the hub / wheel side (requires a puller on side facing fuel tank, hammer it from the other side with rod to remove it, but have to remove the lubing nipple on the side before doing that). Most recommend to remove hub and use a press, but have to replace hub bearings, etc.

                      I used a cheaper aftermarket balljoint and had not problems so far, but factory is best and lube them.
                      RESPONSE MONSTER

                      The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                      • #12
                        No play in the links/ball joints. It's inside the rack. Seems to be around where the servo motor attached inside. Everything outside it tight, just the clunk inside when it gets a quick punch or like when u drive over a crack/small pothole.

                        I may get a lock-out bar over the winter, if so will it set off a HICAS light?
                        Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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                        • #13
                          Knock in rear

                          Yea it will , I was gonna get a tomei lock out kit which locks it out electronically as we'll. in your case I would ....hmmm tough call... can get a lock out bar and just take out the bulb...not sure what it will do your p/s up front because I think it works in conjunction with hicas...


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                          Last edited by 99_SI; 07-14-2014, 11:59 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Front what I know about HICAS, the old style was pwr steering lines/ fluid from the front and used electronic valves to turn the back,
                            I thought our cars where just the electronic servo motor in the rack. Plus the HICAS computer in trunk, and it uses angle sensor on the column.
                            Come on lotto!!! Daddy needs a whole lotta stuff!

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                            • #15
                              R33 is an electric servo motor.

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