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needed:
hicas lock bar
50cm of 10mm ID hose
2x hose clamps
<1L powersteering fluid
tools:
2x big shifters for tie rods or 32mm open ender
17, 21mm open ended spanner
10,12mm ring spanners (ratchet spanners really helpful)
14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets.
hacksaw
PS power steering fluid leaks everywhere, keep this in mind and keep some buckets, trays etc to catch it all, makes clean up A LOT easier
First thing i did was put the lock bar on.
to do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. there around 27mm. crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. you will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it. you can now undo the other tie rod. inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn.
now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car, the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. now just unscrew the tie rods.
get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the car with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods (dont have to hold anything this time). then slide the tie rod boots back over and use cable ties/wire to secure them
finished product
hicas is now locked mechanically and YOU WILL NEED A WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Now we have to worry about it hydraulically.
you will currently have a big heavy rack dangling down. if you follow the lines to the front of the car a little you will see a small solenoid. undo the 2 lines from this (21mm) and then you can remove the rack from the car. Don't forget there's oil in the lines and it's now time to use your bucket.
next unbolt the solenoid from the car, there is a 10mm and a 12mm bolt holding it on. now follow it all the way up to the front of the car, removing the piping from the clips. there will be a few bolts on the way (10mm). once you get to where the body of the car curves up, you will see 2 high pressure connections. hold onto one end (21mm) and undo the other end (17mm) and then you can pull the lines and rear solenoid from the car.
at this stage, most of the stuff is gone, there is only the big solenoid at the front resting underneath the intake plenum and the problem of what to do with the power steering lines that used to go to hicas.
Under the car if you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car.
now look in the engine bay and find the solenoid (behind the battery and under the intake plenum, on your inner guard).
This is what the front solenoid looks like
This is where it is located (now removed)
in front of the radiator you will see a loop of aluminium on the left. this is your power steering cooler. follow the two lines back into the engine bay and you will see that one goes into the solenoid and one goes back under the car (and back to the resevoir). on the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it.
now the rear stage of your power steering pump, which used to feed into the hicas and pump into the cooler aswell, only pumps into the cooler and then returns as normal. as there is no restriction from a solenoid or rack, only low pressure fittings have to be used.
if you had any trouble getting the hoses onto the steel/aluminium pipes, just put the hose in boiling water and then try, should work.
now you can rip the solenoid out and the remaining lines. there are 2 14mm banjo bolts on top of the solenoid, undo these so you can seperate the lines from the solenoid which makes removal easier. you may also want to undo the 21mm banjo bolt on the bottom to disconnect the inlet to the solenoid, but you can just wiggle it out with it still attached. the solenoid then has 12mm bolts holding it in, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom on either side (pain in the arse to get to). when theyre off, wriggle the thing out. the remaining lines are held on by 2 10mm bolts and a 12mm nut at the bottom (i think, cant remember). undo these and then wiggle them out again.
there you have it, you have just removed your hicas. look at all the useless crap that you just removed from your car. now fill the resevoir up with fluid and start the car, powersteering pump will probly make funny noises as its pumping a bit of air as well. just keep turnin the steering wheel lock to lock until the noise stops and have someone watching the resevoir and making sure it stays topped up.
i was told that when you locked hicas, steering got heavy at low speeds because it does this when there is something wrong with hicas. i had no problems with my steering going heavy at all, but my hicas light came on. You can remove the hicas ecu but then you'll loose speed sensitive steering. I suggest you keep it and take care of the hicas light only. You can either fix this by taking out the bulb behind the dash or you can cut one wire on the hicas computer. its located under your parcel shelf and there are 2 wiring harnesses to it. take out the one on the right (one with less wires) and cut the green wire (bottom left hand corner). your hicas light will now stay off for hicas related problems. apparently it still comes on for other problems.
hicas ecu under the parcel shelf
this is what it looks like
this is the wire you need to cut
Voilą... done with Hicas, no more hicas light and best of all you keep your speed sensitive steering.
(I would like to thank salad from whom I borrowed most of my guide. Most of the credit should go to him) :wink:
hicas lock bar
50cm of 10mm ID hose
2x hose clamps
<1L powersteering fluid
tools:
2x big shifters for tie rods or 32mm open ender
17, 21mm open ended spanner
10,12mm ring spanners (ratchet spanners really helpful)
14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets.
hacksaw
PS power steering fluid leaks everywhere, keep this in mind and keep some buckets, trays etc to catch it all, makes clean up A LOT easier
First thing i did was put the lock bar on.
to do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. there around 27mm. crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. you will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it. you can now undo the other tie rod. inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn.
now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car, the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. now just unscrew the tie rods.
get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the car with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods (dont have to hold anything this time). then slide the tie rod boots back over and use cable ties/wire to secure them
finished product
hicas is now locked mechanically and YOU WILL NEED A WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Now we have to worry about it hydraulically.
you will currently have a big heavy rack dangling down. if you follow the lines to the front of the car a little you will see a small solenoid. undo the 2 lines from this (21mm) and then you can remove the rack from the car. Don't forget there's oil in the lines and it's now time to use your bucket.
next unbolt the solenoid from the car, there is a 10mm and a 12mm bolt holding it on. now follow it all the way up to the front of the car, removing the piping from the clips. there will be a few bolts on the way (10mm). once you get to where the body of the car curves up, you will see 2 high pressure connections. hold onto one end (21mm) and undo the other end (17mm) and then you can pull the lines and rear solenoid from the car.
at this stage, most of the stuff is gone, there is only the big solenoid at the front resting underneath the intake plenum and the problem of what to do with the power steering lines that used to go to hicas.
Under the car if you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car.
now look in the engine bay and find the solenoid (behind the battery and under the intake plenum, on your inner guard).
This is what the front solenoid looks like
This is where it is located (now removed)
in front of the radiator you will see a loop of aluminium on the left. this is your power steering cooler. follow the two lines back into the engine bay and you will see that one goes into the solenoid and one goes back under the car (and back to the resevoir). on the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it.
now the rear stage of your power steering pump, which used to feed into the hicas and pump into the cooler aswell, only pumps into the cooler and then returns as normal. as there is no restriction from a solenoid or rack, only low pressure fittings have to be used.
if you had any trouble getting the hoses onto the steel/aluminium pipes, just put the hose in boiling water and then try, should work.
now you can rip the solenoid out and the remaining lines. there are 2 14mm banjo bolts on top of the solenoid, undo these so you can seperate the lines from the solenoid which makes removal easier. you may also want to undo the 21mm banjo bolt on the bottom to disconnect the inlet to the solenoid, but you can just wiggle it out with it still attached. the solenoid then has 12mm bolts holding it in, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom on either side (pain in the arse to get to). when theyre off, wriggle the thing out. the remaining lines are held on by 2 10mm bolts and a 12mm nut at the bottom (i think, cant remember). undo these and then wiggle them out again.
there you have it, you have just removed your hicas. look at all the useless crap that you just removed from your car. now fill the resevoir up with fluid and start the car, powersteering pump will probly make funny noises as its pumping a bit of air as well. just keep turnin the steering wheel lock to lock until the noise stops and have someone watching the resevoir and making sure it stays topped up.
i was told that when you locked hicas, steering got heavy at low speeds because it does this when there is something wrong with hicas. i had no problems with my steering going heavy at all, but my hicas light came on. You can remove the hicas ecu but then you'll loose speed sensitive steering. I suggest you keep it and take care of the hicas light only. You can either fix this by taking out the bulb behind the dash or you can cut one wire on the hicas computer. its located under your parcel shelf and there are 2 wiring harnesses to it. take out the one on the right (one with less wires) and cut the green wire (bottom left hand corner). your hicas light will now stay off for hicas related problems. apparently it still comes on for other problems.
hicas ecu under the parcel shelf
this is what it looks like
this is the wire you need to cut
Voilą... done with Hicas, no more hicas light and best of all you keep your speed sensitive steering.(I would like to thank salad from whom I borrowed most of my guide. Most of the credit should go to him) :wink:
, holy crap dude.
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