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My "ULTIMATE" Car Detailing plan

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  • #61
    Really Nice Threads :shock: you look like a really smart guy this thread is F****** usefull Thanks to you ...


    P.S How You would charge me for a complete refresh exterior only like you did on your ??? (except for the mags )

    You really look like you exactly know what your are doing and im sure you are 8) you should make a carreer with that loll

    thanks you ...
    NISMO mean Nissan Motorsports .... Did HOMO mean Honda Motorsports???

    Treat Your Car Like A Lady And She Will Do Anything For You. Treat Her Like Your Biatch And You\'ll Have Hell Yo Pay Afterwords...

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    • #62
      I guess it's been awhile since I've updated this thread. I haven't done a lot to the car lately, other than maintenance and just keeping it freshly waxed.

      I have taken the liberty to "re-condition" the calipers though. Before they were just looking really weathered and old, rather than having a nice luster to them (like they probably didn when they were brand new.

      Also while I was at it, I sanded the brake rotor/hub (not the actual part where the caliper grabs) that was full of surface rust. I sealed it with a hi temperature clearcoat and Im going to see how it holds up. If it works well, i'll finish sealing all the rest of them. I didn't want to spend all that time fixing fixing the rotor to have it come off under braking and start surface rusting agian. So I'll see how it holds up.

      Here is a before pic of the caliper.


      ^^^ Notice how dull and lifeless the caliper looks.

      When I re-conditioned it, I oped to use a hi-temperature caliper paint that wasn't "blingy" or to "attenion whore". Just something that would make them look rejuvenated, but at the same time subtle. IE no red or blue caliper paints. So it took me awhile but I finally located a gunmetal/light silver speciality paint for this.

      I removed the tires etc and blasted the caliper with brake cleaner, spent some time prepping it using a wire brush and more brake cleaner, then finally worked on the actual job it self. It'll only turn out as well as you prepped it (like anything you ever paint).

      Here are the results!!!

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      • #63
        Originally posted by JDM Meckan|cks
        Really Nice Threads :shock: you look like a really smart guy this thread is F****** usefull Thanks to you ...


        P.S How You would charge me for a complete refresh exterior only like you did on your ??? (except for the mags )

        thanks you ...
        Thanks for the positive comments You've got a PM regarding my services.

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        • #64
          hey mcnab... i picked up 4 gold panasport rims from the junkyard for $140 :shock: they have no curbage whatsoever

          but they're dirty... should i just wet sand them with some fine sandpaper like what you mentioned on page 3? what do you think?

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          • #65
            Heya how you been! Haven't seen you around town in awhile. I hope things are going well for yah.

            Newho to answer your question:

            See how well you can clean them up BEFORE having to sand them, they may clean up better than you thought. You can try some serious degreasers first (castrol superclean) and see how they come out using those. Then using some metal polish to clean up the lip etc.

            If that isn't working, then give some fine/superfine steel wool a try (#000 or #0000 superfine). See how well that cleans them up for you. I can't tell by looking at the wheels if they are cleared (they should be) but you might just want to clean the lip etc, then sand down the painted section and re-spray them with some wheel paint, then re-clear.

            If you try the above suggestions and they arent' working for you, then work yourself into the wetsanding, then use a heavy compound to get the wetsand marks out, then finish with a metal polish to bring out the final brilliance.

            The whole idea is to work your way up in "aggressiveness" on the wheel. IE you don't to use any harsher abbrasives on there than you have it. So try those suggestions first and see how it goes.

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            • #66
              could you tell me where did you get the porter cable and how much?

              i'm planning on getting one, and i'm hesitating between the porter and the meguiars

              here is where i found




              autodetailing solution comes with meguairs pads and 6.5" backing plate and i will have to get them shipped to a forwarder near the border and go there and pickup, and come back to canada paying duty and taxes.


              also, do you think meguairs scratch X will do the trick to remove swirls?

              GOT HID RETROFIT???

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              • #67
                If you buy from CarCareSmart.com you should be fine. It's a Canadian retailer, so you won't get nailed brokerage.

                I would reccomend the DA.

                ScratchX isn't really designed for use with a DA (Porter Cable) polisher. Order polishes like the Optimum Hyper and Optimum Polish. They will do a far better job removing swirls and wash induced marring.

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                • #68
                  i've got a question for you.

                  my jdm car has some acid rain damage/oxidation/blemishes on the hood,roof,trunk and to a much lesser extent on the front fenders and doors. the hood/roof/trunk is littered with very small blemishes. the paint looks good from even a few feet away, but if you look at it very close all the imperfections are very visable and very annoying. much of it seems to only affect the clearcoat, while others are slightly deeper. :hit_head:

                  when is a cutting compound suitable and when would it be wiser to get a repaint?

                  i'll post up some pictures too, just tell me what damage you want pics of.

                  thanks
                  adrian

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                  • #69
                    I'd really have to see some pics or get more detail to be able to tell you for certain..If the acid rain has etched the clearcoat bad enough, then no it's not recoverable short of repainting...

                    A polish or compound (aggresive form of polish) is designed to remove very thin layers of clearcoat. In the case that it cant' remove a scratch or pitting, it rounds the edges of these which makes the light reflect less harsley off of it, in effect lessening it's appearance.

                    Regardless I'd suggest you take it to a professional detailer in your area and see if they can correct it for you, it's worth it to pay them a few hundred dollars to correct the issue, rather than pay a painter many times that to respray it..

                    Again it's hard to say definitivley without actually seeing it. Obviously if it's through the clear it's not recoverable. If you can catch it with your finger nail, then that's also a good indication that it will definitly not be removable.

                    Post the pics anyway and I'll try to give you a better idea if it can be removed.

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                    • #70
                      I have a question: I want to clean up my new rotors that get covered in surface rust. My wheels are really big and the part of the rotor that touches the wheel, upto where the pads hit the surface, is really rusty.

                      Anyone come across a solution for this unsightliness?
                      1999 Nissan Stagea RS Four S, White

                      Previous JDM Rides:
                      1992 Nissan President Sovereign Junction Produce, Black (sold to NICOclubber)
                      1991 Nissan Skyline GT-R, Black (sold to GTRCer)
                      1989 Nissan Skyline GTS-4, Black (sold to GTRCer)

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                      • #71
                        Another tip for detailing interior is buy compressed air for computer parts and use the little straw attachment to blow out the little chunks and such from seat folds, carpet seams, other items that hold small items.
                        06 WRX

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