question about running my 2860-5's

[Velders]

Hey Mike, you should come up to Ft. McMurray too, its on the way... kinda...

[Skym]

There's a few ways to achieve a good result.

On a budget -

Adjustable wastegate actuators adjusted to lowest boost setting
Nistune in stock ECU $500
700hp Ford Lightning MAF in blow through setup near intake plenum $150 + adaptor plate for intake piping, plug / tail for MAF.
Fuelpump upgrade $300 or so
Nismo Adjustable FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) $250 or so and bump fuel pressure up to force more fuel through stock injectors (known as a band aid mod when injectors are too much $$$)
$600 for tuner fee, dyno rental fee

Later on 800cc Injectors, adjustable wastegate actuators adjusted to highest boost setting.

Other options for MAF are stock RB25 MAF x2 or stock RB20 MAF x 2 (these are used as MAF upgrades on N1 R34GTR, etc in Japan). A guess is $200 or so, if you can find them at a wrecker with plugs / tails.

[archaeic_bloke]

hey guys,

thanks SO MUCH for all the valuable input and info.. i have made my informed decision... heres the plan:

continue with my engine refresh plan as im doing (heater hoses, gaskets and oil pump) and then i will put the engine back in the car. if any of you wanna see where im at on that have a look at my blog or build thread: www.rpm-skyline-gtr.blogspot.com

i will wait to install the turbos untill i have everything i need.

so here is the order i will do things purchasing for the next upcoming months:

- blitz boost controller (so that i can turn up the boost on my stock oem turbos and still see a little more power) - im a big fan of dual solenoid actuator valves
- AEM uego wideband kit
- Nistune kit ( i wanna start getting to know how to tune the car)
- denso intank fuel pump
- some near 800cc injectors
- Z32 MAF's (i may not even need upgrade MAFs as my goal is 500 WHP)
- tomei or HKS turbo outlet pipes preferably divded wastegates


i should have all that by mid summer.. at which point ill take a weekend and install all that new stuff (its not an engine out job, and by now im pretty good at working on my own car)


and thats the plan boys! what do u guys think?

i think its better to do it that way so that i can drive my car sooner (its summer time now! woohoo!) and its much safer for the engine (which is in great condition)

[Velders]

I think you made a good choice Have fun driving!

[GTRADDICT]

Don't mean to hijack your thread ,but do you have info on the Nistune. I want to know what it really is and how it works?

[Skym]

Basically Nistune modifies older stock ECU, so it can be reflashed like R35GTR stock ECU, EVO stock ECU, etc (most 2000+ modern car stock ECU's can be retuned this way) via Nissan's diagnostic Consult plug / port under dash on drivers side, Consult cable, laptop with Nistune tuning software. But Nistune makes changes to ECU tune in realtime, which means any changes done on laptop can be felt on engine straight away. Not make changes, send to stock ECU and then check to see if changes work, like with most modern stock ECU's.

Ztune is running a Nistune Group Buy if you want to get Nistune for a good price -

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/t-official-nistune-group-buy-50623.html

[archaeic_bloke]

here you go GTRADDICT - this is pretty much everything u need to know, hit up mike from ztune.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/t-official-nistune-group-buy-50623.html

DAMN! mcfly beat me to it hgahahahah

[GTRADDICT]

thx! I searched nistune on here but i guess i missed it. I really did lol

Edit: Already read it, but know I see it comes with the manual.

[drewrbz]

Robin has tuned my car the last two years and he has done a fantastic job each time. Just want to add a positive note...From what I understand he is back in April.

[archaeic_bloke]

really? can you please post the spec of your car?

cause if its a high spec built motor then that would entirely make sense

but if its not a crazy motor i would be interested to at least speak to robin again

[cobrAA]

really? can you please post the spec of your car?

cause if its a high spec built motor then that would entirely make sense

but if its not a crazy motor i would be interested to at least speak to robin again

Maybe because your anglophone.. nah just kidding lol!

[falcon]

hey, so my setup will be as follows:

Skyline GTR - R32 - 1991

- compression tested to (165 PSI across the board)
- N1 oil + N1 water pumps
- garrett 2860R-5's
- ARC intercooler + hard piping kit + Apexi cold induction kit
- full 3.5" exhaust
- *ordering* Tomei or HKS outlet pipes for turbos


heres my question: ... i will leave the stock boost restrictor solenoid in place. --> CAN the stock boost restrictor handle the job of keeping these beastly turbos below 1.0 Bar?....

u see i had enough money to buy all this stuff but i need to wait in order to get new injectors, AFM's, and fuel pump + a new tune.

i basically just want to know if i can run all this gear on a standard ecu, with out re-tuning? like as long as i keep it below 1.0 bar everything should be fine right? and the oem gear can keep it below 1 bar right?



SECOND PART:
what if i install a boost controller? for example the Blitz SBC dual spec or something? would that be better to keep it at 1.0 Bar?... how high could i crank the boost without causing issues? and risking a lean condition?

those in the know, please enlighten me, im really not keen on destroying my engine.

thanks,

1) Don't run those turbos on the stock ECU
2) No the restrictors won't work very well, 2860 wastegates are 14PSI
3) Buy a PFC/AEM/Nistune, w/e your fancy
4) Get a tune
5) Don't run an N1 oil pump
6) I ran a PFC with the PFC boost control and it controled boost just fine until 2bar with no spike. It was an Apexi dual solonoid. Same as the regular Apexi boost control kit.

And lastly... don't run those turbos on the stock ECU.

[archaeic_bloke]

hahah thanks falcon, already established all that bud .. but it helps to re-inforce the idea.

i WILL run the N1 oil pump though.. its coming straight from japan through ztune.

its been proven time and time again N1 oil pump is solid for applications under 800hp. and 9000 RPM... i feel comfortable going with the N1... how come you dont like N1?

[falcon]

Are you planning to run any type of crank damper? Reason I ask... with a similar build to yours we ran a N1 with an ATI Race Damper. While the car was fine during Zulu's ownership the engine was blown shortly after he sold it. It's currently at his house and we are rebuilding it. The oil pump is toast. When you boost the pressure drops to almost zero. This was with a NUR block, N1 oil pump, ATI damper running 2860's at 1.8 Bar (I assume he was running full boost when it blew).

[archaeic_bloke]

2860's @ 1.8 bar?!~ man thats intense.. i don't plan to go anywhere near that haha... ill probably be happy at around 1.2 ~ 1.4 bar myself. was it the inner gear or outter gear that broke? or did the pressure releif thing act up? like what happened to it specifically... and i think N1 are designed to have more pressure and a little more flow, so did your guy have an extended sump?

cause without an extended sump he coulda sucked the oil pan dry causing the pump to fail.

you seem to think it was from vibrations? so you suggest a crank damper, dont u think it might upset the balance of everything too though? like i heard it was better to leave original crank damper unless you get the whole rotating assembly balanced too.