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  • #16
    If longivity is the concern not power, I'd rather get a OEM N1 Long block from Nissan.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by r33_gtst View Post
      A lot of motor blow ups is because of clearance issues.
      Get a Nissan mechanic or someone go is an RB guru to do the work
      It's those guys that build the best motors because they don't make the mistakes that they may have made in the past
      Sure a mechanic can build it and make it run, but it's making it last which is the key
      I'd guy all the parts yourself so YOU know what's going into it and take it to a Nissan specific mechanic.
      It's all about clearance....
      Appreciate the input,

      The shop is a nissan specific shop. Auto Dream Calgary. They really seem to know their stuff

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      • #18
        Originally posted by xcye View Post
        If longivity is the concern not power, I'd rather get a OEM N1 Long block from Nissan.
        Would you please mind posting a link to where I can read up about it? Or where they sell them?

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        • #19
          I have just over 33k on my built engine and its taken alot so far. Tones of abuse, bad tuning, and over boosting.
          The engine builder is critical, quality parts, don't cheap out on essential items.

          If done right a built engine will take more abuse. Performance bearings/parts are not designed for 100k, but if your not going for anything crazy. Under 400whp
          Buy a good used motor, or New long block, it will last longer under normal conditions.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Imation View Post
            I have just over 33k on my built engine and its taken alot so far. Tones of abuse, bad tuning, and over boosting.
            The engine builder is critical, quality parts, don't cheap out on essential items.

            If done right a built engine will take more abuse. Performance bearings/parts are not designed for 100k, but if your not going for anything crazy. Under 400whp
            Buy a good used motor, or New long block, it will last longer under normal conditions.

            Would you please list out the essential items you have put in? Doesn't have to be company..just the part.

            Im looking to spend about 8-10k total

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            • #21
              It's hit and miss. If you look at the Gtr build thread section on here there are perfect examples of the possibilities. Nismo stune built what looked to be a awesome setup and had some issues. Felix built that sweet rb30 and also had some issues. But they are both coming back for more. Make sure you not only have a good engine builder but a tuner as well. Tuner can make or break your car and at 10k I'm sure you rather drive it than have it as a large trophy in the garage! Make sure you do some research on all of the above.

              One suggestion though, if you do want longevity out of this the buy a low km or fresh block and just add on some supporting mods and you could see 400hp while lasting a long time. Just a thought. Either way these cars are money pits.
              Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

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              • #22
                With more hp, torque parts wear out quicker, it's a well known fact with any engine. Factory engines have a lower amount of hp and can last 200,000km+. Also you have to treat higher hp engines like racecar engines and that includes routine rebuilds.

                I have noticed only 100hp above factory hp shouldn't affect longevity of engine too much, as shown with a RB20DET I've seen that required a rebuild at around 200,000kms. That's with a factory engine, street use, mild 320hp.

                This is a RB26 engine with 737awhp and was done properly, which lasted 2 years (routine check / rebuild) -

                550kw over at wheel, abused for 2years.........this R32GTR engine is now time to open....Nothing major things happened, but it's overhaul ti...


                Note the bearings are on the way out (common problem with wetsump setup). Dry sump should help to extend the lifespan of bearings, etc, but not everyone can afford a drysump setup.
                Last edited by Skym; 04-19-2012, 03:53 AM.
                RESPONSE MONSTER

                The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                • #23
                  SO would you guys say getting a longblock from OEM nissan is going to be better than a rebuild?

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                  • #24
                    For the price of a longblock from nissan you could build a really nice one with forged pistons. Just find an engine builder and have them blueprint assemble it properly. I could have built mine but my builder is completely blueprinting my motor to a much higher degree of tolerances than Nissan or myself could .

                    I don't know what a nissan longblock costs now but mine is costing around $10,000 with a brand new r34 crank , bored - line bored - decked - hot tanked - magged and painted block, Weisco 87mm pistons , carillo pro H-beam rods , CARR rod bolts , ARP main stud kit , tomei oil pump , n1 water pump , ARP head stud kit , cosworth head gasket , tomei pon cams , tomei cam cap stud kit , tomei cam belt with new adjustment idler hardware supertech +1mm inconel exhaust valves and nitrided intake valves - phosphor bronze guides - HKS step 2 valve springs tomei adjustable cam wheels, nismo thermostat and various other things i cant remember now. This includes the blueprinting / machining / balancing and basic assembly of internals and valve train.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by cortexx View Post
                      For the price of a longblock from nissan you could build a really nice one with forged pistons. Just find an engine builder and have them blueprint assemble it properly. I could have built mine but my builder is completely blueprinting my motor to a much higher degree of tolerances than Nissan or myself could .

                      I don't know what a nissan longblock costs now but mine is costing around $10,000 with a brand new r34 crank , bored - line bored - decked - hot tanked - magged and painted block, Weisco 87mm pistons , carillo pro H-beam rods , CARR rod bolts , ARP main stud kit , tomei oil pump , n1 water pump , ARP head stud kit , cosworth head gasket , tomei pon cams , tomei cam cap stud kit , tomei cam belt with new adjustment idler hardware supertech +1mm inconel exhaust valves and nitrided intake valves - phosphor bronze guides - HKS step 2 valve springs tomei adjustable cam wheels, nismo thermostat and various other things i cant remember now. This includes the blueprinting / machining / balancing and basic assembly of internals and valve train.


                      Wow that is like exactly what I needed =p

                      I just like to have a list like that to "blueprint" my ideas and brain into one direction.
                      Really appreciate that list man, now to find a reputable shop... =/

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by blink View Post
                        Would you please list out the essential items you have put in? Doesn't have to be company..just the part.

                        Im looking to spend about 8-10k total
                        I started with a new r34 crank, Weisco 87mm pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP 2000 rod bolts, ACL bearings, ARP main studs, Nismo oil pump, n1 water pump, ARP head studs, Tomei head gasket, tomei pon cams, tomei cam cap studs, Greddy timing belt with new idler and tensioner, new oem thermostat.

                        Machine work: blue printed, bored, line honed, decked, magnafluxed, balanced and assembled.

                        Might have been a few more small things I forgot but it was well under 10K

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