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  • Warming it up!

    So this is something I've always wondered about, how to properly warm up your skyline.
    With forged internals, you should let it warm up before you rip it obviously. BUT what are the variables to this

    i know there are many such as temp, how hard you will drive, etc etc.

    Lets say you are just going to cruise to work, you want the pistons to properly expand, 5 min? 10? what if you ***** it and shift at...2...3rpm until it warms up farther.


    I have asked many different people with different cars, some say the secret 30 second rule (yeah not for forged lol)
    Some one else with a forged built mustang and another with a civic said 10 minutes....

    What about if you are just going to the grocery store and you are in there for 10 min? should it warm up as long as from a cold start?


    ***I know this is a very difficult post to answer, but I'm not only necessarily looking for a concrete answer, just maybe your guy's experiences and how you do it!

  • #2
    I turn the car on and start driving... always have. I don't beat on it first thing after start up so there's no reason for 5 minutes of idling.
    1989 R32 GTS-t (Sold)

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    • #3
      I start it up and let it idle until I see the temp gauge start moving (give or take 5-6 minutes). The car feels like crap if I start up and start driving immediately.
      (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ 1990 BNR32

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      • #4
        I usually try to wait 2-3 mins but not always

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        • #5
          I turn the key and go
          Obviously not hitting redline or full boost but once it runs, I buckle up and off I go.
          R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
          Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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          • #6
            I don't drive on a cold engine because oiltemps are not high enough to thin the oil out, which allows oil to get to bearing surfaces at higher rpm's. If rev engine higher and on boost when warming up, it actually damages the bearings due to lack of oil getting to bearings, higher load on bearings when on boost. It's not the first time I've heard of GTR running a bearing due to thrashing engine when cold.

            Car manufacturers know this lack of oil problem exist's, and that's why BMW came up with a revlimiter that raises 1000rpm at a time when engine reaches certain coolant temps. You'll notice red bars 1000rpm at time on rpm meter go out as engine warms up.

            I have always warmed it up around 9.60 minutes on turbo timer before I drive car, which is around 66 degrees on ECU (via Nistune) or around halfway on stock temp gauge. Anything from 62.5 degrees C+ (Nismo thermostat opens) you can drive on, but not boost for the first 2 km until reaches 80 degrees C (factory operating temp) and drivetrain warms up. Factory engine works in the 80-90 degree range. Some say 60-90 degree range for engines.

            Even Nismo warm up their RB26 racecar engines (forged engines) on air jacks, then put into 1st and warm up drivetrain before driving on racetrack -



            On road you can't do that, so have to warm engine up and drive slowly to warm drivetrain up.
            Last edited by Skym; 08-28-2012, 02:31 AM.
            RESPONSE MONSTER

            The most epic signature ever "epic".

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            • #7
              Just take it easy until its warm
              03 lancer dead
              68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
              05 chevy silverado L33
              2010 crv Wife's ride
              1987 Harley Softail custom

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              • #8
                I start it up and let it idle 2-3 mins while I move my other car. There's no point in letting it idle 10 mins in your driveway when you can easily drive it around <2-3k rpm without causing any issues util it warms up. I find it saves time since you also warm up your driveshaft/gearbox at the same time.

                Also note that most provinces have a law against unecessary idling (>2 mins) during the summer time. Granted no one will stop and give you a ticket for this but just know that it's there.
                R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
                http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

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                • #9
                  When driving around you are putting load on engine, as taking weight of car into account. But ECU does pull ignition timing up until around 3000rpm during initial warmup which drops hp of engine thus less load on bearings, so taking it easy can work.
                  RESPONSE MONSTER

                  The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                  • #10
                    I daily drive forged internals.
                    I try and let it warm up until the temp gauge starts moving.
                    The engine doesn't see above 2-3k rpm prior to reaching operating temp.
                    ECU is also compensating until it reaches operating temp, I can definitely feel it.
                    Don't beat on it during warm up and you should be fine.
                    1989 Skyline GTS-t Type M (Bee-R powered)
                    1991 BMW MK Motorsports 850i
                    1992 Widebody Mercedes-Benz 400E
                    1995 BMW 325i Convertible
                    1998 Toyota Avalon XLS (winter beater)
                    1993 BMW AC Schnitzer 320i (SOLD)
                    1992 Mercedes-Benz SL500 (SOLD)

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                    • #11
                      Thank you for everyones replies!
                      I'm also looking into getting a rad hose heater or an block heater? Or any others that would be best?

                      Some thing to plug in,

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                      • #12
                        You driving it in the winter?


                        I am 99% sure I have forged pistons. Idle for 1 min., drive easy for as long as it takes to move the temp needle, honk on it. I will, however, limit my revs to 5000rpm untill full temp. I even run 15w40 diesel oil (non synthetic). Forged pistons expand pretty quick, you don't need to be gentle for that long.



                        Jon
                        Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

                        1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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                        • #13
                          Thanks Jon, and yes i will be winter driving it! Fun with the awd and winters =p

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                          • #14
                            its been said by alot of the older racers ive met you want from 2-2.5 minutes of warm up per cylinder so about 12 minutes minimum
                            TO GRIP OR NOT TO GRIP.... THAT IS THE QUESTION

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                            • #15
                              I never drove my gtr cold. Always seemed wrong to me. When I used it as my daily driver for a while I would go out and start my car then back in the house and make my coffee...by that time she was nice and warm and off to work I would go
                              gtr garage queen...anybody seen my wallet?

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