Bc: Aircare Omg!!!!!!!!

[joker2168]

Apperenly it eats away at your injectors. Time for the Mythbusters!!!

To do it once to pass Air will not harm the injectors.

[joker2168]

Thanks for all the tips and replies guys, I appreciate it.

As for Octane, on the paper, it appears that low octane is getting better results. I'll stick with low octane, and make sure it doesn't ping while I warm my car up.

Methyl Hydrate is stove fuel, which is used pretty much on any outdoor camp fuel system. Those seals are not getting eaten by methyl hydrate (I had one for 4 years now, and it's still holding) I think the injector seal damage is just a load of BS.

As for Takeda, nothing personal, but I'd rather spend 300 on upgrades than trying to pass my car for aircare. I kind of like tackling this with research and adjustment (as annoying as it is).

Any other handy tips? My car is NOT being tested under the grey market value, as it is registered as 2.0 L, RWD, and the curb weight it was registered in.

I'm going to attempt again when it gets abit nicer outside (where is out summer dammit)

Any other tips would be appreciated. Maybe retard my CAS?

I also tried to retard my CAS that did not help.

[M-SPEC]

Go to a diferent place and tell them you have had a engine swap (or bore) to a 2.6L or 3L that will lower the passing mark due to the larger displacement
its worked for some people

another way to really warm up your cat (what most aircare mech's do) is remove a vacum hose off the intake manifold while it idles for 5-10 min , the extra air will heat your cat right up (not packing it full of carbons like under load) and then plug the hose back in and go through the test

the best tip is to drill a 1/4 hole right before your cat on the TOP side, due to the vacum it will suck in the air through the small hole and push it down the rest of the exhaust and mix clean air to you exhaust before it gets to the emissions sensor

good luck

[RixR32]

Testing as grey market means the specific ENGINE, not just the size/setup. There are other 2.0L engines out there that are way different than the RB.
"Grey market" means the standards can be changed to accomodate the car, same as in custom vehicles and "hot rods".
This is NO LONGER the case for Skylines, as they are pretty popular now..
At least in Ont, there is a set standard for these cars now. I would assume BC does also, as they're more anal...

Just do some regular maintenance.

Like people said, replace the o2 (300ZX TT driver side) make sure you have good plugs/coils and your timing is CORRECT.
Make sure you don't have some goofy aftermarket JDM tune either.(Mine's, etc.) OEM or Stinky's tune works fine.....for the standards they're using.
Use 91-94 octane, warm her up with a good HIGHWAY stint (revving does NOTHING, load it up..) and go on in for the test.
Try recirc'ing the BOV also, may help with the rich problem.

You do not have to do any of these temporary "fixes" to get these cars to pass. As close to OEM as you are, anyways..
Mine just tested with the LOWER standards, than when it arrived here and tested grey market, and it still passed no problem.
It was done curb idle, AND on the Dyno.


Good luck!

*EDIT - The sensor in the CAT is just a temp sensor BTW, it does nothing for emissions or the way the car runs. The o2 is on the turbo outlet.


Rick

[Bossman]

You should do a complete "tune-up" first like change/clean the plugs, air filter, pcv valve. Did you change your motor oil? if you have your car in storage for a while the un-burned fuel will migrate to you motor oil and cause a high HC reading.

[M13]

I have changed my plugs before the car was put away. 7 heat range, they pull GREAT.

As for oil change, the car is due for one in about 2500 KM. I have already put 1500 KM since I got it back on the road.

I am SOOO close on passing the HC levels, Any tips that will help reduce the HC reading? that's my nemesis at the moment.


thanks alot for the tips again

[Bossman]

I'll be honest, if you changed the O2 sensors and pcv and all the things we suggested and still don't pass then it's time to have the car checked by someone with the proper tool like a gas analyzer and a code reader. High HC means unburned fuel and some of the other reasons may be a low combustion or poor ignition. Since the RB don't have coil and wire then then it could be a weak coil pack.

[aaronisonfire]

Hey M13, I came to join the club.

I just got back from aircare and these are my readings:

Hydrocarbons (HC) g/km: Allowable:0.5000 Mine: 0.6108 FAIL
Carbon Monoxide (CO) g/km Allowable: 9.3200 Mine: 3.8647 PASS
Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) g/km Allowable: 1.2400 Mine: 1.0312 PASS

I went for a quick couple laps on the highway flooring it, but it wasn't more than 20 minutes of driving.

Looks like I'll clean out my MAF, coil pack, O2 sensor ETC!

[M13]

Because the readings are not PPM (parts per million)

I think I'll have to induce an exhaust leak and reduce my g/KM

will that work :P

I need to lower .25 g/KM and I'll heat my car up on couple hwys.

[aaronisonfire]

Would lower/no boost help the HC emissions? If that were to be the case I could just turn my boost controller back to stock boost.

Someone said to get a stinky tune ECU, which I have the spec-4 and still failed, but not as bad as M13 (lolz).

Does the lower octane actually make a big difference? I'll put in 91 octane for my next test, I've been running 94.

I'm going to take it for a monster of a drive before I take it through aircare again. 30-45 minutes of high-rpm highway driving should be sufficient?

My MAF hasn't been cleaned or replaced as far as I know, so I'm going to do that, along with the coil pack, and the O2 sensor... except I don't know where the O2 sensor is exactly, can someone show me?

[RixR32]

Would lower/no boost help the HC emissions? If that were to be the case I could just turn my boost controller back to stock boost.

Someone said to get a stinky tune ECU, which I have the spec-4 and still failed, but not as bad as M13 (lolz).

Does the lower octane actually make a big difference? I'll put in 91 octane for my next test, I've been running 94.

I'm going to take it for a monster of a drive before I take it through aircare again. 30-45 minutes of high-rpm highway driving should be sufficient?

My MAF hasn't been cleaned or replaced as far as I know, so I'm going to do that, along with the coil pack, and the O2 sensor... except I don't know where the O2 sensor is exactly, can someone show me?

Just CHANGE your o2 sensors boys!

Makes a BIG difference as this is the main "controller" of your A/F mixture. Boost level shouldn't matter if you have the ECU to support it. (Stinky's is good to at least 12psi, which u shouldn't exceed with stock turbo anyways..)

Then TEST your coils, as they are pretty pricey guesses. Replace as/if necc.

A bad MAF you would know about, due to bigger issues it would cause.

o2 is easy as pie, right on the turbo elbow, you'll see it sticking out on the pass side right in front of the firewall. It's not too $$$, like I said, 300ZX TT drivers side sensor is an exact match.

This is what my car passed with(at least the stuff that may effect emmsions), well below the "limits". I posted a scan of m results below:

Stinky tune Spec 4
NEW o2 (300ZX TT)
Coils in spec (.8 ohms IF I remember right)
New plugs NGK Iridium BCPR6EIX gapped @ .9
Timing @ OEM spec
94 Sunoco
255lph fuel pump
CAT in place
3" Apexi Cat-back
Boost @ 12psi
HKS mushroom intake
Cleaned AAC valve
MAKE SURE NO BOOST LEAKS, as this would cause a rich mixture also.

A hotter CAT works better so a good 20-30 min on the highway is good..

If all else fails I would suggest a compression test as a last resort, make sure everything is ok in there..



Hope this all helps..

Rick

[M13]

I am in the process of changing my O2 sensor.

15 yr old, possibly broken O2 sensor is probably why I am running SOOO rich.

I picked up a new one at Lordco for 129.00 Match with 300ZX TT


Let me update you guys once I change the O2 sensor (Seized like a c*nt, and stripped nut)

[flipridah17]

$129? Last time i got mine was $75 bucks.. damn those guys!

I am in the process of changing my O2 sensor.

15 yr old, possibly broken O2 sensor is probably why I am running SOOO rich.

I picked up a new one at Lordco for 129.00 Match with 300ZX TT


Let me update you guys once I change the O2 sensor (Seized like a c*nt, and stripped nut)

[Chris_RB]

depends how good your sales dude is...My friend used to work there and I always got AWESOME deals on everything from oil to sensors and alternators. Always a BIG savings from MRSP's. Get an account too...that will help if you don't know any sales people well. Then you get a discount automatically (from Lordco I'm talking about).

I hope that O2 helps dude! usually big frustrations are caused by an easy fix...been there done that.

[M13]

I was quoted 80 bux from the old guy who ordered the part in at 3 PM.

I went in at 7 PM to pick up part, he's not there, some punk says the best he can do is 129.

Oh well. It isn't OEM, it's NTK.

Hopefully I can get this stupid stuck O2 sensor out first.