turbo tech

[Fuzen]

Alright so im getting ready to order my turbo, but of course theres all the different options to choose when getting one. I was wondering if anyone has a website that kind of explains the different things like the A/R and what exactly it does for me, so I can figure out the best one for me? looked around on google but couldnt find anything really

[jeff_]

Too many variables =P Need more info before recommendation.
First off, what are you trying to get out of the car? Drag car? Auto-X? Fun street car?
What's your budget? What turbos have you looked into so far?
Are you sticking with twins, or going single?
What supporting mods have you done?
We'll start there! =)

A/R is Area to Radius ratio. Short version: The smaller the number, the smaller the housing. A small turbine housing will spool up a turbo quicker (smaller space for exh gas to go thru, which forces it to move at a higher velocity), a larger turbine housing will spool up a turbo slower (larger area for exhaust to go through means slower exhaust velocity); the trade-off is that the larger turbine housing will also flow more air, meaning more power at higher boost levels.
Long version: There are 8236453254 books on turbos & turbocharging, a couple of good ones are "Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes (HP Books)", "Maximum Boost by Corky Bell".

[mcfly]

Tell us what you want and we can find the suitable turbo for your needs.

Also include things like rpm limit, displacement etc.

[Fuzen]

Thanks for the replies!

My build is a street/highway queen with drag race. The turbo is a single GT3582R-TS. I called up the shop who do a lot of turbo's and they said I should go with the 1.06 A/R rather than the normal .70 AR it comes with (i think, or .82 i dont know for sure). They suggested I go with a GT4088R but I am wanting full spool before 4300RPM and they agreed I should wait until I want higher HP numbers before I switch from the GT3582R.

here is the website to the turbo:

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=214_1168_1089&products_id=1129&osCsid=c59e463c5d755ddea73171fe4d913a62

manifold:

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1640&osCsid=c59e463c5d755ddea73171fe4d913a62

I am basically building the whole car over winter, so not really just slap on the new turbo and go have fun, will be a fully built machine short of rebuilding the whole engine. I will be limiting my RPM range to around 7000-7300 since I dont have the N1 oil pump, and I will probably not put it in for awhile, so the engine will stay the way it is aside from poncams. If I forgot any info that you needed then just let me know and I will try to respond thanks

[QuietChaos]

If you have the time, I suggest you go find the book "Maximum Boost", by Corky Bell.

[mcfly]

so you are going to drop 3 grand on a manifold but wont spend 1 on a half decent oil pump.

[Fuzen]

so you are going to drop 3 grand on a manifold but wont spend 1 on a half decent oil pump.

touche, I guess I don't see a point in pulling out the whole engine to replace just an oil pump, when I should be doing all the internals at the same time? I have enough money to get the turbo goods/fuel/ecu at the moment, and enough to get that going and not kill the engine driving it until I either rebuild the engine or just purchase a pre-built engine. I dunno am i going about this the wrong way?

[GTR-Dad]

Here's a link to good turbo tech website. +1 for "Maximum Boost"

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showpost.php?p=337102&postcount=8

Dan

[kelaog]

Poncams make for some fun idling issues lol! I just got mine to idle smoothly at 1100rpm today! But there presense in the car is definitely felt and heard in the exhaust note. Only thing I don't like about the cams is when you're sitting in the car idling you can feel the engine torquing between powerstrokes rofl.

Thanks for the replies!

My build is a street/highway queen with drag race. The turbo is a single GT3582R-TS. I called up the shop who do a lot of turbo's and they said I should go with the 1.06 A/R rather than the normal .70 AR it comes with (i think, or .82 i dont know for sure). They suggested I go with a GT4088R but I am wanting full spool before 4300RPM and they agreed I should wait until I want higher HP numbers before I switch from the GT3582R.

here is the website to the turbo:

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=214_1168_1089&products_id=1129&osCsid=c59e463c5d755ddea73171fe4d913a62

manifold:

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1640&osCsid=c59e463c5d755ddea73171fe4d913a62

I am basically building the whole car over winter, so not really just slap on the new turbo and go have fun, will be a fully built machine short of rebuilding the whole engine. I will be limiting my RPM range to around 7000-7300 since I dont have the N1 oil pump, and I will probably not put it in for awhile, so the engine will stay the way it is aside from poncams. If I forgot any info that you needed then just let me know and I will try to respond thanks

[GTR-Dad]

My JUN 264/264 9.7 mm lift cams are a bit more aggressive than Pon cams, but my car idles smoothly at 900 rpm. You can tell it's cammed, but it doesn't interfere with idle.

Don't blame the cams.

Dan

[kelaog]

Hmm maybe my tune or something...

Idles smooth at 1100rpm. I'm still doing some more tweeking.

Does an offset intake and exhaust duration affect anything?

[GTR-Dad]

Hmm maybe my tune or something...

Idles smooth at 1100rpm. I'm still doing some more tweeking.

Does an offset intake and exhaust duration affect anything?

Cam timing affects a lot of things. Particularly if you've got overlap you'll find reversion at idle comes into play. You can try adding a bit of fuel at idle to smooth things out, although 1100 rpm isn't much above OEM idle. Slightly elevated idle is also a 'smoothing' strategy. No biggie.

My JUN's are currently set at zero, but I don't know what the lobe center timing is. R34 OEM cams don't benefit from timing gears, but the R32's do. Don't know how the Poncams or JUN's compare to these.

Dan