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Custom anti-roll, anti-sway and anti-squat/dive help

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  • #16
    I agree, rollcage connects all the points where subframe, suspension, etc mount to chassis together, so essentially becomes a second chassis inside main chassis and strengthens the factory chassis. Also makes car safer if it rolls or gets in a accident. But down side is in some country's (with full rollcage), have to be used for at least 2 events a year and have a logbook to prove you have attended those events.
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    • #17
      Originally posted by SxyBeast View Post
      Correct me if I'm wrong but I was reading a racing school book and the author talking about suspension says normally the softest spring rate possible is best under most circumstances to allow grip of the rear under accel.
      This will aid in weight transfer over the rear wheels, especially in a drag car. Which leads me to my first question (and the most important one that no one has asked in this thread) - what are you going to use the car for? Suspension setups are very different depending on what the car is going to be doing. Drag? Time Attack? DD?

      Originally posted by SxyBeast View Post
      Ultimately I will simply play with different suspension setups and find what's best.
      Get plenty of seat time, and make small, single changes, then test, then change, then test, rinse and repeat. Don't change everything at once - you'll never know where the improvements/problems come from.

      Originally posted by SxyBeast View Post
      Mostly because of my crappy shocks. Yes they weren't even coilovers, so that would explain alot
      It explains nothing - if you have a Skyline then you have coilovers already. Do you mean adjustable ones? Those don't explain it either - they just provide adjustability. There's nothing that makes aftermarket adjustable coilovers intrinsically stiffer than OEM units.

      Originally posted by SxyBeast View Post
      BUT if it's not broken your not driving hard enough! Therefore right now while the car is under the knife I'm looking to reinforce everything I can because I can't wait to break stuff!
      NOT. If you're breaking things it means they're not engineered to meet your needs. Big difference. Again, what are you planning on doing with the car?
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      • #18
        I guess nobody likes my quote about driving harder

        Thanks for clearing up my confusion about different bars, I had a feeling sway and anti-roll were the same thing...
        A rollcage is on the agenda...
        Skym-ultra racing looks like a very good company and those bars are acually kinda cheap, but I will keep to custom bracing for now. Very good resource to have though.
        Firstly I will drop the CF idea, that saves some money aswell. And I will take everyone's advice and wait until I buy new coilovers before jumping to modification. However I REALLY like Frankis idea and will most likely implement that soon.
        Johnny-The race book I'm reading says what you said almost to the letter when it comes to testing.

        The car will be a track car only at first, and maybe also weekend car.
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        • #19
          A bump-stop style setup will be cheaper/easier to implement... lighter too.
          Race. Win. Live.

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          • #20
            OKay so I have basically a whole shop full of scrap/misc metal of all types, sizes and geometry to do this bump steer member. Firstly I CAN use a big piece of flat bar steel but that will add much weight, what geometry could an alternative method use, tube, square tube, truss? Second, I'm blank on where to connect it to on the wheel sides. Frankie said something about an RCLA. I have no idea what that is. I'm guessing thats where the roll bar is connected stock now correct? The rest seems pretty simple. How much adjustability should there be at suspension and how much at middle subframe? It would have to be adjustable not only for fine tuning but also fine tuning at different adjusted coilover heights, no? It sounds like the stock sway bar will be deleted. Or would it stay and this bump steer is totally seperate for dive/roll?

            How will this system affect the car rolling/corner handling, ie; when the bump steer is touching mostly on one side? Seems like it will help stiffin the suspension further, thats the whole point of this... I'm understanding now

            BTW I'm really appreciating the help from all you techie's, I coulden't do this without you guys!
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            • #21
              I dunno, what did I say? Or did I ask too stupid a question(s) to get no response? All this great help up till now really made me want to do this (to my DD as well) and then no response. I hope I'm not comming off as ungreatful but, yea... Help lol.



              To resummarize, the main questions I need helpful tips with are:

              What to connect ends to at wheels.
              What geometry should the bar take.
              Is stock roll/sway bar deleted or totally seperate member?

              Thanks
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              • #22
                connect it to the same spot where the sway bar is connected at each end

                a flat bar is your best choice, since you want it to bend, at least 5mm thick

                stock sway bar is sepeate and needs to stay
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                • #23
                  ^^^ Thank you very much franki for the help and the initial design idea. And thanks to others as well.
                  I'm going to do this to the Skyline and to my DD Dodge 2.0 sx just for fun. Will post my results.
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