I agree, rollcage connects all the points where subframe, suspension, etc mount to chassis together, so essentially becomes a second chassis inside main chassis and strengthens the factory chassis. Also makes car safer if it rolls or gets in a accident. But down side is in some country's (with full rollcage), have to be used for at least 2 events a year and have a logbook to prove you have attended those events.
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Custom anti-roll, anti-sway and anti-squat/dive help
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Originally posted by SxyBeast View PostCorrect me if I'm wrong but I was reading a racing school book and the author talking about suspension says normally the softest spring rate possible is best under most circumstances to allow grip of the rear under accel.
Originally posted by SxyBeast View PostUltimately I will simply play with different suspension setups and find what's best.
Originally posted by SxyBeast View PostMostly because of my crappy shocks. Yes they weren't even coilovers, so that would explain alot
Originally posted by SxyBeast View PostBUT if it's not broken your not driving hard enough! Therefore right now while the car is under the knife I'm looking to reinforce everything I can because I can't wait to break stuff!'93 R33 Gts25T Inked Art Car - SOLD
See the Sharpie makeover, and other inked cars from around the world
at www.inkedartcars.com
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I guess nobody likes my quote about driving harder
Thanks for clearing up my confusion about different bars, I had a feeling sway and anti-roll were the same thing...
A rollcage is on the agenda...
Skym-ultra racing looks like a very good company and those bars are acually kinda cheap, but I will keep to custom bracing for now. Very good resource to have though.
Firstly I will drop the CF idea, that saves some money aswell. And I will take everyone's advice and wait until I buy new coilovers before jumping to modification. However I REALLY like Frankis idea and will most likely implement that soon.
Johnny-The race book I'm reading says what you said almost to the letter when it comes to testing.
The car will be a track car only at first, and maybe also weekend car.sigpic
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OKay so I have basically a whole shop full of scrap/misc metal of all types, sizes and geometry to do this bump steer member. Firstly I CAN use a big piece of flat bar steel but that will add much weight, what geometry could an alternative method use, tube, square tube, truss? Second, I'm blank on where to connect it to on the wheel sides. Frankie said something about an RCLA. I have no idea what that is. I'm guessing thats where the roll bar is connected stock now correct? The rest seems pretty simple. How much adjustability should there be at suspension and how much at middle subframe? It would have to be adjustable not only for fine tuning but also fine tuning at different adjusted coilover heights, no? It sounds like the stock sway bar will be deleted. Or would it stay and this bump steer is totally seperate for dive/roll?
How will this system affect the car rolling/corner handling, ie; when the bump steer is touching mostly on one side? Seems like it will help stiffin the suspension further, thats the whole point of this... I'm understanding now
BTW I'm really appreciating the help from all you techie's, I coulden't do this without you guys!sigpic
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I dunno, what did I say? Or did I ask too stupid a question(s) to get no response? All this great help up till now really made me want to do this (to my DD as well) and then no response. I hope I'm not comming off as ungreatful but, yea... Help lol.
To resummarize, the main questions I need helpful tips with are:
What to connect ends to at wheels.
What geometry should the bar take.
Is stock roll/sway bar deleted or totally seperate member?
Thankssigpic
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