RB25det. Oil filter relaction and Oil cooler, what is needed

[Supraclean]

@RHDskyline, I bought a used older style grex relocation kit that mounts the filter up by the front bumper. Bought it at the time just wanting to relocate the filter as you know tho lame changing oil can be hey? But now after reading about oil coolers and the gains from them I'm hooked and must have one.

@Marc, I will take some pictures but my remote filter adapter does not have an extra 2 like in the grex pic above to run the lines. Also Ill have to cut down my lines to either be the ones for the cooler or be the ones from the sender to mount by the strut tower.

Also I hear you about the godspeed route. I am going to be doing a rightup in my build thread about manifold fitment. I will save that for another time tho. Back on topic tho this thread hopefully should help out others like it has myself.

[nelsonmxmarc]

You dont need the extra two fittings. There is always an entrance and return fitting on the adapter plate, as long as the return fitting goes to the cooler instead of back to the block you're good to go! My plates both have only 2 fittings, in and out. Grex runs 4, i think simply for ease and is probably a more cleaner running system with less obstruction this way..

[JNS Performance]

Nathan if your interested we are gunna be bringing in a whole ton of oil cooler parts here in the coming weeks to make kits for skylines, s13s, rx-7s etc...

I will shoot you a PM with details, we could give you an awesome deal to use your car for our GTS pictures and installation guide.

[M0nkeyMark]

Awesome thread guys! Thanks for elaborating on this topic, and that seriously blows that the godspeed kit didnt work out to well Marc.

[cobrAA]

Taken from my past mistake of using a godspeed kit, i have actually ended up changing everything except the cooler core (which is an older setrab core) and the mounting plates.. lol.

Filter thread pitch is 3/4 UNF-16

Your best bet is to build a kit. And i know it sounds rather difficult/pricey etc. but its rather the opposite.

Earls has adapter plates from the block to remote relocator with/without thermostats. I would look into that and build from the ground up. Once you have your remote plates you need adapters and fittings. These can be sourced from your autoparts or if you've turned into a bit of a sucker for sh*t quality, you'll turn to something expensive and right, the first time around - check out tuboquip.com / aeroquip.com - they're supplied parts by Eaton and are all aircraft certified, which makes them pricey, but bullet proof because aircraft parts have to meet pretty exceptional standards.

Greddy/grex/trust/blitz all use these fittings - thus why the kits are rather pricey..

So you've got your adapter plates - you want fittings/adapters. Look at -8 as a minimum but -10 seems to be the general consensus. The adapter plates are normally accomodate 3/8NPT (national pipe thread) fittings, which means if you need -10 adapter for your -10 fitting, you need a -10 to 3/8NPT adapter.
(side note.. 3/8npt is more of a -6, so -10 to -6 entrance is rather constrictive. IF i were to redo my kit AGAIN, i would go -8an)

You'll need line - 10 feet of stainless braided line is good. Rubber insert, teflon is for like 260 celsius and is super stiff, not a lot of fun to work with.

Good cores are easy to come by. You can get a setrab 10 row for like 75$ from them directly. Mocal is nice as well.. You can be cheap here though, most companies, like godspeed, have managed to get hold of earlier stock and have been using them, so coolers can be had cheap, and are equally efficient (Minus the new endtank designs which accompanies more oil, but for DD application you wont need that)..

9-19 row is solid - no worries about your oil pump not keeping up to par..


So to reiterate;
Adapters;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=138_144_198&zenid=d656460c028ca09027a2a21feaa888cd

fittings;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_3

Hose;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=25

Remote plates;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_195_197

Only thing missing there is a remote relocator but i couldnt find a URL.

Anyways, you can be cheap in 2 places - the remote plates and the core. The rest, save yourself the headache..

All my fittings leaked on my godspeed kit, it failed hard in the fitting department.. Went with aeronautical fittings, thing works like a charm!

Good luck

haha marc, I was waiting to heard from your godspeed kit before buying one Good things I did it.

[Supraclean]

Hey Marc I didnt even think of that! That sounds so much easyer, ill be on the lookout for a serab oil cooler then and source some line local. Ty Sir.

[cobrAA]

Here's what I was thinking for my relocation kit. If someone know something cheaper, please let us know!! How about we creat a gtrc's oil cooler/relocation kit ultimate kit haha?

Block adaptor an10: 48$ shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-FILTER-COOLER-RELOCATION-4-PORTS-10AN-ADAPTER-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aNissanQQhashZitem255c8092baQQitemZ160465719994QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Braided hoses: anywhere you want. Usually about 6-10$ per feet.
you can go with rubber for a cheaper kit but it doesn't look as baller!

Replace the oil filter adaptor with a thermostat one.. 90$ Mocal

http://cgi.ebay.com/OIL-COOLER-PLATE-THERMOSTAT-POLO-GOLF-GTI-CORRADO-G60-/400177018920?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2c68b828

Or instead of paying 90$+48$= 138$. I think greddy sell the complete kit for 160$+shipping.

Fitting ? Best I found is like 15-20$ each
Maybe someone could chime in for better deal!

Cooler:
Like Marc said, you can buy good cooler bran dnew for like 120$. It's very not hard.

[RHDskyline]

Does that block adapter work with the skyline?


SO you were going to run the block adapter in the first kit, then run it to an oil filter plate (with thermostat)?


So the flow of oil goes

Engine-Filter-cooler-engine. Don't want dirty oil running through the cooler.

[cobrAA]

Does that block adapter work with the skyline?


SO you were going to run the block adapter in the first kit, then run it to an oil filter plate (with thermostat)?


So the flow of oil goes

Engine-Filter-cooler-engine. Don't want dirty oil running through the cooler.

exactly.

[RHDskyline]

I know im missing something really simple here. Im have a brain fart i believe haha



So when the engine is still reaching operating temperature, the oil flows from the block, to the filter adapter, and if the oil is still to cold, it runs right back to the engine???


Im just wondering how it does this because the exit line on the filter adapter is going to the oil cooler, so how does the thermostat by pass that.


EDIT. I think i got it. Please correct me if i am wrong. The filter adapters with thermostats will have 2 entrancse and 2 exits?

Thats the only way i can see it working

[craftz]

Just wondering, how important is the thermostat if you don't drive your car in the winter? I have read that engine oil temp. should be around 80C. Has anyone here monitored oil temp. using a cooler with and without a thermostat?

[craftz]

And another thing about the fittings. AN are way overkill for our application,JIC are identical but 40 percent weaker. They have the same 37 degree mating surface and thread pitch. Even at 40 percent weaker we use JIC fittings at where I work routinely to 1500psi, some applications even higher psi. The JIC fittings are much cheaper. Check this out http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleStronger.html

[RHDskyline]

I was talking to my dad today about an oil cooler and such. And he said they are pretty much a gimmick unless you racing your car or doing heavy towing.

When we installed a new engine into my brothers truck. We took the oil cooler out (they come with a stock oil cooler). Because my dad said the oil would never get hot enough to need a cooler.

My dad is a mechanic, hes not just some random btw.

If your going to get an oil cooler, you need one with a thermostat, even not in the winter. Your engine runs better when its hot (operating temperature), with an oil cooler with no thermostat, you are increasing the time that the oil has to heat up, as well and making the total volume of space bigger that you have to pressurize.

Your engine runs best when the oil is at the right pressure and temperature. the longer it takes to reach those points, the more potential damage you are doing to your engine.


To give you an example. I just complete a 9 hour drive from Taber Alberta to Edson Alberta, Its pretty much all highways. My car was never shut off once, yes, even stayed on getting fuel. my average speed on the highway was 120. sometimes 130-140 (and i was still getting passed by so many SUV's)

My Oil temperature was never above 180 and my dad said it should have been higher. Around 220 cause fuel atomizes better when its hotter. He said if my engine temperature where around 220, i would probably get better fuel economy and more power.

Which makes sense .


As for those fittings. that looks pretty good. Some people will continue to buy the highest quality just because thats what they do. they don't want to cheap out

[cobrAA]

Amen! Your absolutly right. This is why, I'm only getting a relocation kit as of right now. If I start lapping, I will simply add the oil cooler.

Just like you, I thought, hey those thermostat plate open up at 180 celcius. In the past 2 years, I never saw my oil temp get higher than 190 celcius( happened once when it was UBER-HOT and drove all day long stop and go) Usually it never pass the 140-160 marks.

[craftz]

Sounds good, I will put in a relocation kit for now and make my own hoses. Good info.