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  • Redline problem and stall

    Tryed asking this question of skyline-owners, out in the UK... nothing usefull.

    R33 GTST 1995 RB25DET
    Intercooler
    hks intake kit
    walb 255
    stock ecu.

    The problems are. (all random, not consistant in occurance)
    Redlines at 3,000 < You can shift up but still redlines... sometimes >
    chuggs when turning slowly < has stalled several times >
    stalls when parked <random times >

    We think it's the AFM, or lack of fuel pressure.
    But it doesn't happen 24/7 so it's hard to guage, it can run perfect for several hours, and sometimes it just bails on us multiple times.

    Does anyone know the acutally problem, or would a tuned standalone ecu fix all?
    Last edited by 95skyline; 07-12-2011, 08:37 PM.

  • #2
    If you know the problem and can explain, most likey if you carry the parts will be intrested in purchasing.

    Comment


    • #3
      Redlines @ 3K RPM?!? I assume you mean it won't rev past 3000RPM?
      When you say "chugs when turning slowly" do you mean when the engine is at low RPMs or when you are actually turning the car?
      Have you checked the ecu for codes? Are there any?
      I would suggest taking it to Nissan and hooking it up to CONSULT. It might cost you $100 but if you have no other means of checking sensor values then it could likely save you a lot of guess work.
      Don't think for a second changing your ecu will make things better. Adding performance parts to a car that already has problems will just make things worse.

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      • #4
        sounds like limp mode if it wont rev over 3000 ,i agree first check your ecu for codes it will tell you what is wrong
        could possibly be afm clean it and you might need to resolder it
        understeer -is when you go off the road and see the tree that kills you
        oversteer-is when you go off the road backwards and dont see the tree that kills you

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        • #5
          I agree, sounds like you are in a limp mode. If your considering it to be a fuel problem, check your pressure and go from there. If its intermittent it could be a bad ground for the fuel pump.

          If you want to test your MAF, Run through the testing procedures laid out in the FSM as well as resoldering the connections.

          Check your O2 sensor as well.
          “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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          • #6
            Try putting pressure on the afm plug with your thumb... see if that helps.
            -= ECU UPGRADES =- -= LOCKOUT BARS =- -= AERO =- -= SEATS =- -= ACCESSORIES =-

            -= PM ME FOR INFO =-

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            • #7
              also sounds like a maf resolder to me

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              • #8
                1. Check for codes
                2. Check for rich mixture (AFR) and 3k limiter = limp mode.
                3. Resolder MAF, if needed.

                As for the turning problem... Check P/S pump and wiring where they might get kinked/ground in the turning process
                03 lancer dead
                68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
                05 chevy silverado L33
                2010 crv Wife's ride
                1987 Harley Softail custom

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                • #9
                  Thank, you everyone.

                  Will, check MAF and sensors/connections as listed, also I put a HKS reloaded on order.

                  As for
                  CODES? Can you guys explain more on codes? How would one check the "codes?".
                  Not electical savy.
                  Last edited by 95skyline; 07-13-2011, 03:50 PM. Reason: forogt to say thank you...

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                  • #10
                    i had a similar problem but it was because the vacuum line to the waste gate actuator fell off try that lol hopefully its just that simple

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 95skyline View Post
                      As for
                      CODES? Can you guys explain more on codes? How would one check the "codes?".
                      Not electical savy.
                      ECU is in the passenger side foot panel. On the ECU there is a screw and a LED (maybe two depending on the model). Screw should be a couple degrees before full clockwise for run mode (there is also a line showing this). To get into diagnostic mode, you turn the screw clockwise to the end, then fully counter clockwise. The LED should start to flash. Code 55 means all is ok.

                      If you do a quick search there is a thread on here with all the codes/procedures since you can also check rich/lean with the LED.
                      R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
                      http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

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                      • #12
                        Will try vacuum line, thanks their

                        Will look around for someone too do a consult, and test all the sensors and electrical.

                        Yeah, I was reading, and someone offered to do a reflash on the ecu.
                        When I have it sitting in my garage ill pull off that panal and check so.
                        Last edited by 95skyline; 07-14-2011, 12:16 PM.

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                        • #13
                          I am a similer issue occasionally happening to my R32 GTS-T - weird part is though, when I wait long enough for the car to warm up it stops doing that but I have a factory ECU so I doubt it has boost control features
                          ~~ Toyota AE-86 GTS - 1984 ~~
                          ~~ NIssan R32 GTS-T 1991 ~~
                          - coming soon - Mazda FD3S - 1994 -

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                          • #14
                            I do have a boost controller.
                            Pretty sure it's electrical sensors, everytime I read on this issue of limp mode and chugging it's from the MAF or low maintence.

                            I Would spend the time fixing it but, would have to park for a while to clean out entire maf sensor and check all the linkages, for bad connections. As well as check out my ECU for the codes. Probably go over all the lines...

                            Untill then im fixing up UPS body kit breaking... dank weeds.

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                            • #15
                              hey if you need to know how to fix maf pm me it takes around an hour and about $15 (soldering iron and black silcone)

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